ruparts

hi, that 4 digit code was used in pre 85 series vehicles and the 85-89 brats and hatchbacks which are still the earlier series actually. the 85 on sedans and wagons (loyales) did have a 5 digit code but as someone said the first letter was not actually used to make code cut keys. here is the deal there are two " different blanks ", one is used for master keys, and another for valet keys. most of the masters i have dealt with have 7 cuts . they use a code book to look up your lock code and that will give them a 7 sequence of cut depths for the key.

hi , my 84 wagon had this same thing, i finally found i had a bad ground wire connection. it was under the inst cluster and was a heavy gage black wire with a ring terminal. it is a " made to be ground " , one of several built into the wire harness, on my car it comes off of the main harness just above the floor/bulkhead under the dash. i had to remove the fuse panel and the ecm to access the area , once i saw this loose wire i put it to ground on the bulkhead and my various electrical issues finally were fixed. my guages are steady and consistant and volts read correctly , something they never did before i found this unconnected ground lead. you did not say what car you have , but these symptoms sound like the same thing, a bad or not connected ground in your wiring . the fsm electrical section has a page showing all the main harness ground locations , this is my best suggestion.

hi yes the reinforced correct ones. regular o rings will tend to mush flat but they deform out of shape because there is no reinforcement to hold them round just rubber, and the characteristic deformed hump closes off part of the oil passage its sealing and may be enough to cause the tic/ clack hla's , i've tried it , but never again.

hi, in case you want to get the actual subaru ones, part# 13089AA010 , they may have to order them but usually easy to get , about 2.60 retail each.

hi, if you have not checked the coolent temp sensor and the connections to it ,, either of them can cause similar issues . when you set the timing did you have the green connectors connected , and the idle switch should be closed , it should be if the throttle position sensor is set right. all this according to fsm. a bad O2sensor signal will cause a rich condition , probably enough to cause rough & sluggishness.

hi, do not forget to carefully check that 2 inches of oil passage in the cam case, it is the passage between the cam journal and that brass oil restrictor. oil is fed from the cam journal towards the head and through that restrictor,, stuff can get to the restriction and gets trapped in the passage , sometimes partially blocking oil flow to the hla's .

hi, the amount depends on which compressor your system has, there were several different types used on these vehicles, and i think there should be a plug in the case for adding oil on a dry unit, but intake side if not i believe.

hi, i think these are not buckets but sleeves, what forms the bottom of the lifter hole is actually the head itself, and that is a machined hole then the sleeve is pressed in . if the oil passage holes in the sleeve is in alignment with the head oil passage to allow adequite oil to pass through the lifter it should be ok. you may damage it if you try and drive it in further , if you have to try use a wood or plastic block to sit squarely on the sleeve and hit on that , do not try and hit the edge of the sleeve itself with a hammer. as far as the continuing tick, there might be some debris in the cam case oil passage. the one oil passage between the cam and the oil restrictor plug , is a trap for stuff, i have found bits of silicone in there several times , and all of those had a permanent tick or an intermittant tick. its the roach motel of debris , it goes in but can't get out. bad part is you have to remove the cam case , and take the cam out of it to access this passage.

hi, the big black/yellow one ( 1st pic) goes to the bracket/ pipe that the top end of the lower radiator hose connects to , near the bottom of the battery , you should see a tab and bolt where it goes . the last one near your toes in the pic , looks like one end of a radio noise supressor condenser wire , but i'm not for sure. i don't know on the brown one.

hi, do not do anything to those bolts at the lower end of the column, the end you have pictured extends through the bulkhead gromet as is. anything holding it is the steering link , or above what the picture shows. the clutch cable may be different length, the pedal box on sedan/wagon is different from xt , not sure how much different.

hi, i recently found a bad ground on my 84 wagon that had caused several issues but not exactly like yours. anyway, it is one of the main ground wires with a eyelet end. this one is up under the dash not far from the floorboard, you have to loosen the fuse box and the ecm , find the main harness coming from the engine compartment out of the firewall / floorboard , this ground wire was a black heavy gage about 6-7 inches long with an eyelet, it sprouts right off from that main harness and is obveously meant to connect to ground with a screw. mine was completely free and unattached to anything, after putting it securely to a body ground my problems were fixed ! not sure if this is your problem but definately check this particular ground wire because its one of the main ones, and definately has to have a good ground for anything to work right, especially in the instrument and light circuits , that is where my car was having problems.

hi, a lot of times the switches give problems on the 85-89 cars. if you can remove the door panel you can jumper 12v to the motor to determine if its the motor mechanism , or switch related. also the tracks need to be lubricated while you are in there, i use white spray grease in the spray can using a piece of vacuum hose on the nozzle to reach in and spray the inside of the roller tracks. the individual switches can be disassembled and the contacts cleaned but its a tedious job but has worked for me several times when i had the same symptoms. if 12v and a ground directly to the motor does nothing , then you need another one.

hi, my book shows #22630 aa011 , for 86-88 SPFI systems. just want to say that the harness connector and corrosion is at fault many times, the corrosion can extend up into the wires inside their insulation for several inches of the harness sometimes. also the 02 sensor can cause issues because if not working right they usually drive the mixture full rich.

hi, the loyale windshield is a glue on design, it is attached to the body with a urathane rubber adhesive , then a trim strip set and the corners are also held by the adhesive. check with some auto glass places for replacement trim sets or the suby dealer, they came in black , or with a chrome stripe in the trims, depending on the vehicle, so you can match what you have . the original trim pieces are position specific as are the corners, one side of the lip is bigger than the other on each piece and they can be installed wrong,, i know , a glass co put them on wrong on a car i had them replace the windshield. you can just put new trims on if you clean the area around the glass and apply new adhesive , to hold the trims in place till set use painters tape.

hi, first thing is to look carefully for any air leaks , vac lines and bigger lines ,anything associated with the air filter to turbo and turbo to throttle body. if you can read the codes stored in the computer , then do that, it might give the answer for you , it's easy but you need to learn how to do it . the "coolent temp sensor" ( 2wire connectr) on the rear side of the intake manifold is very important to have working on a FI system. the one on ea82 are known problematic, usually its a corroded connector and corroded wires inside the harness to blame , ocasionally the sensor is bad. beyond vac/air leaks , the cts , a full tuneup, oh yes , a good O2 sensor, getting the codes from the computer, you should have it doing fine again. the air flow meter and throttle position sensor can give problems, the light wheel inside the distributor can too, the stored codes should give you some answers before an expedition of trial and error, but the air leaks and cts is a good start.

hi, what you have is from the 85-89 series GL, GL-10, loyale, both sedans and wagons, also fits the 3-dr coupe . it has a unique to this series spline and also a taper below the splines and it requires a puller to remove the wheel. the earlier 80-84 series , cars , wagons and brats have a different spline and no taper , no need for a puller to take the wheel off. it does not fit on the one you have. the later impreza and legacy models have a different spline also. The bottom line is the hub adapter you need for your column is Very hard to find! there is some available in australia online , there have been several threads on this in the search , i have been looking for them here a long time off and on but never found one . the ausi price is like 60 + shipping so not cheap but they did have them. the column you have is called the L series there , just say 87 station wagon. i think the company name was Saas boss hub adapters. do a search here for threads and online for the parts.

hi,, in 99 they went to 8x170mm , early years had a 8x6.5 " pattern, i have had this same 8x6.5" 8 lug rims for 30 years , you got some misinformation.

hi, those 8 lug rims have 6.5 x8 bolt pattern, they are 16" or 16.5 " diameter and too wide too. there are a lot of threads on modifying some of the 6 lug rims out there, do more searches but a lot of guys use them.

hi, try rockauto.com , and they have rebuilt calipers too, the fronts are not the same. i can say for sure that there are at least 3 different diameter piston sizes that have been used on the rear disc brakes of 85-89 subarus, they are all close enough that just looking at them one would not notice it. all the rear calipers will fit on the car the same, so they do interchange, but you want both sides to match. if you get kits be sure to check the seals are the correct size for your pistons , if you buy calipers any 85-89 pair will work .

hi, there is a good chance that your egr solinoid has a broken vac hose nipple, it's real common. they are real easy to break the hose connection off, look for a small square metal box thingy with vac hoses and a 2 wire connector, usually mounted on the backside of the intake manifold. usually there are 2 of them 1 is egr solinoid and 1 is purge solinoid. there are some posts about how to cheat the ecm and block the hoses or if you can find one , replace it.

hi, be aware that these later corner lamps also have to be either for the large single headlights , or for the 4 small headlights , they are different for each style. you just have to use the right ones but they will fit.

hi, i have followed this thread and am still not sure you have eleminated the ground side of the fuel pump problem. have you tested the blue positive wire for voltage while providing a completely separate independent ground for the white wire ?? the white ground wire goes from the pump and into the ecm to ground, i have had several that did not make a ground and i had to cut the white wire near the pump and run it to a good body ground near the pump,, . when originally tested these did not show voltage because there was no ground.. connect the white wire to a good ground, then see if the blue will show volts. use a temporary jumper to ground to do the test if you don't want to cut first.

hi, about the bumper: on 4-15-11 there was a post in the " stuff listed on ebay and craiglist section " there is links to 2 separate brand new ones for sale , you might have to do some searching to find who posted them for sale but i bet they are still available if you can find them. good luck .

hi, i have had a few do this, and it was found that debris in the cam carrier restrictor orifice was the problem. the cam case has a oil restrictor pressed into the supply hole, it is a brass plug with a small hole, but the bigger passage between the cam and the restrictor is a natural trap for stuff, old solicone is especially prone to catch , anything that can squish through a 1/4 in oil supply hole under 50-70 psi , but not through a pin hole can trap in there. it requires to take the cam case back off and slip the cam out , you have to blow out the passage through the restrictor from the head side, toward the cam bore. i bet you have some crud in there blocking the orifice.

hi, the connectors are not the same on all years, did you change the intake ? if so use the intake harness that was with the car originally, the same one that was removed.