ruparts

hi, xt6 rear rotors are larger than the 4lug rotors, the xt6 backing plates makes the caliper mount farther out, and then 4lug rotors do not fit all the way out to the edge. if you want to use 4lug wheels you need to use backing plates and parts from a 4lug sedan or wagon , the xt6 actual calipers will work on either setup , but the mounting backing plates are the key part .

hi, not sure on how you made the test, you should put the test meter neg- lead to a good body ground , ( not either wire) , then check for +12v on the blue wire when the ign is switched on (about 1 second ) it should stay on if the ign switch goes to start mode ,, also if you plug the green test connectors together it will cycle the blue wire + every few seconds with the ign switch in the on position. the idea is , we're checking the ground side of the circuit , try it this way. i have had problems on several cars that the pump would not run and none were the +voltage side of the circuit, but a bad ground inside the ECM .

hi, are you sure its the 12v side? i had several that the ground side was the problem,, the ground is inside the ECM ,and it went out, i made a new ground near the pump to the body and worked fine. be aware that 12v does not go to the pump with the switch on, only for a couple of seconds. if you plug together the read memory connectors , with ign switch on it cycles the voltage to it every few seconds so you can do tests.

hi, the CTS for the fi is on the rear side of the intake manifold, 2 wires and is well known as a problem creature, especially the connector to it, the one on the radiator is for the fan.

hi, the ground for the pump is in the ECM, i have had a couple of them do this same thing as you describe, and found the ground was the problem. you should check the pump first , not just assume it is bad. unplug it and connect it to 12V both pos and neg direct to see if it will run that way it might be a bad pump but check before you spend the money.

hi, the little light location is right , but you will have to plug together the diagnostic connectors to actually have the light show any codes, the connectors should be there in the same area i believe.. mine is 88 so 92 may be somewhere else (under hood ) i am not sure on where , but they have to be connected to read the codes. someone familiar with 92 might chime in on this. there are two sets of test connectors , read memory and clear memory, on mine the read memory connectors are 1 wire each green plastic 1 male, 1 female, plug them together and then you can read any codes stored in the computer. many times the coolent temp sensor (on the intake manifold) can cause those issues you mentioned, and its corrosion on the connection to it at fault many times.

Hi, just so you know, there were 2 different factory installed systems used on the ea82 subies, hitachi and matsu----a (spelling ) . anyway there were also several other add-on systems that were "dealer installed" . you need to determine what system you are dealing with before you go buying a lot of parts , the hoses and compressors and brackets are all different between the 2 factory systems, as well as some of the electical components ,in particular the a/c amplifier, so find out what system you have .. if it turns out to be a dealer add on system , then you will have to get the parts as needed to match what you have obveously. the hitachi compressor is a big sort of round with a pentagon shaped rear plate, the matshuta is the little square chunky one, looks like the panasonic compressor, the brackets are different for all of them so find out what you have first. good luck

hi, this sounds weird but the same issue happened to my 84 wagon, long to short the bulb was at fault . the filament burned and created an open no work, but if you hit the brake and it bounced just right it would weld itself back together , and work for a while , then would fail yet again ,, drove me nuts . finally after this happened many times the filament had done this so much that it visually looked very different and faulty even though it still worked most of the time. just one of the really weird things that happened to me.

hi, this has been covered in a lot of other threads but, in short NO. the spfi wiring and ecm will not run a mpfi system, meaning you would need to rewire the car with wiring from the mpfi turbo doner car. it would also require the front crossmember from the turbo car and a lot of other intake plumbing , exhaust and hoses issues to do it. BAD idea , anyway the ea82T is the worst motor they have made as for as reliability. just find any spfi or even a carb motor and use your original intake and engine wiring and sensors on it, they are usually cheap and easy to find.

hi, the throttle switch ( position sensor ) is adjustable separate from the throttle plate stop set screw , which should NOT be moved from its orig setting , in fact they seal that setting with a paint like marker on the threads.

hi, you might need to set the ignition timing

hi, you should check that the fuel return line to tank is not crimped or stopped up, that could cause a high fuel pressure reading. take the fuel filler cap off and see if you can blow air through the return line. if the fuel in the tank is old , you should drain it and put in some fresh, check carefully everywhere for vacuum and (air & emissions) hose leaks , especially on the air intake system from the AFM to the turbo and from turbo to throttle body and anything connected to them. if it started and ran it should continue to improve with fresh fuel and filters and begin to diagnose from there. the coolent temp sensor and connection is one thing that gives trouuble on the ea-82 FI engines .

hi, you might want to check if the actual cables themselves move freely in their casings, i have had a lot of bad e-brake cables over the years. good idea to put new calipers on , those mechenism are weird anyway. you are aware the caliper pistons have to screw in to collapse, not just squeeze in ? probably won't need to deal with that till next time for pads but you have to turn them to compress back into their bore.

hi, those purge and egr solinoids are way expensive new and very easy to break the little hose nipple off which is usually what is broke. this creates a vac leak and disables the function , double trouble. if you can find good used ones they probably work. the coolent temp sensor problem is common and is the connection a lot of times, if you do a search here you can find the fix is usually a wire connection repair and sometimes the wires are bad several inches up into the harness. the sensor can be tested for proper resistance if you get the specs , someone can provide that.

hi, +1 what naru said = 21, 34, 35

hi, there are some seals between the block halves that see water, but i have not had a motor that they leaked , i don't think its common . the one head you said was resurfaced, that's good , and the other one was not. they sometimes develope a problem on the surface where the head gasket ring fits against it, sort of a groove that matches the gasket. in my opinion it's a good plan to resurface it even if not doing the valves. clean the block good too. most here recommend the FelPro permatorque head gaskets ! torque them a few pounds over, i think i went 64 lbs.

hi, i have added p/s to my 84 wagon , same setup as you are looking for. if i might suggest you ought to be looking for a complete setup in a doner car. I am not positive but i have seen others post that the entire front crossmember is needed also because the P/S one is not the same as M/S ones. i did change mine out but did not confirm if it is definately different or not. you are going to need all the lines and a crank pulley that has the p/s belt groove and all the mounting bolts and brackets for the pump, the front one and the rear one, and the steering shaft connector. you will be waaay ahead finding a complete setup to take off, and it gives you the advantage of seeing how it all fits.

hi, i wondered why no one has said to check out the coolent temp sensor, especially the connector to it, they are a very common issue on ea-82's turbo and non turbo. anyway i guess the ea-81T has one and i know those cause trouble if the ecm is not getting a proper signal from it. i don't know if it shows a code for it but check it , and the connections , if you can find the specs , see if that signal is getting to the computer.

hi , you are using the wrong bolts to bolt the calipers on the backing plate/ caliper mount , the proper ones are shorter and do not stick through and rub. look for the white paint on the head. the part about the caliper being out too far and the pads not making full contact is only if you are using something other than 4-stud ea-82 xt/car/wagon backing plates ,, the xt6 plates will cause this because they use a bigger rear rotor than the 4-stud ones on ea-82 vehicles, and i don't know about ej parts. but if you get backing plates from a 4-stud xt / car / wagon the calipers/ pad fit will be correct.

hi, this is the knock sensor, it won't keep it from starting,,, how old is the fuel in this car?

hi, 84 parts book shows # 7850 25000 ( exc.elc-mtr ) as the part number , or 7850 25020 (w.elc-mtr ) as the other part number, i dont know what the elc-mtr is about, but the first one shows to fit all vehicles , both gl and dl , and the last one to fit only 4 dr ,wag ,and coupe , designated gl, maybe it's for the digital dash sending units.

hi +1 naru, i have seen this lots of times , it can be cleaned from the metal parts of the dist with care, but probably time for new cap & rotor .

hi, yes that is a good candidate for your leak, i can't remember if there is a gasket between the block and that rear cover , but the "T" intersection where the 2 parts meet the pan or between the block and rear cover may be the source of your leak. that rear housing piece has dowel pins to align it with the rear of the block , so you have to pry on it some, after the bolts are removed, also the bolts that hold it on are behind the flywheel so you gotta take the clutch and flywheel off to get at them, so that means remove the trans or pull the engine. if you go to all the effort be sure to super clean all oil from the sealing surfaces and check them for nicks and gouges that could let oil pass. before putting it back , i like the brown aircraft type brush on sealer for places that see oil, others may like the aerobic sealers , but don't use silicone .

hi, i doub't it has anything to do with the trans, the ea-82T is somewhat prone to lag, bog , hesitation , sluggishness , and then suddenly goes to pulling fine. a lot of things can contribute to it but the trans isn't one of them, except the automatics.

Hi, thanks to everyone for their help, I think naru found the problem. ESPECIALLY Thank You naru, you said to check the ground under the far left side of the dash, not being sure what wire or exactly where , i dug in, and by the time i got the fuse box and bracket down, i saw a 6" black wire with an eyelet coming from the main harness. it may have been attached under one of the screws , i don't know , but after putting it securely to ground on the bulkhead !!! all is well again, and , with the 90 amp nissan alternator i can run the lights and heater at idle and no discharge , i like it a lot. IMO the nissan upgrade is well worth the time and money , and it's easy , also i made a jumper from the suby connector to the nissan plug and now it's easy to just unplug it for replacement or service. gadberry, it was a ground but not that one, too bad i could use a cup now. Thanks to all for your help