ruparts

hi, it could be done, the hard part might be to make the water passages work out , from the dual port heads through the adapters to the single port manifold. you could just put the single port heads , and the original intake from the blown eng on the mpfi engine, just some time and new gaskets ( not a bad idea anyway) if you plan to keep it for a while, and not have to make any odd parts. use the fel-pro permatorque hg's if you go this way, could do it in a day , it would take longer than that to even think up some adapters , much less make them.

hi, check if the rubber seal is out of place in the firewall, it should have a full lip on both sides of the firewall , if it got pulled out of position it could be part of the problem. there are some screws or bolts at the bottom of the column that might bind some going through the seal, ( might use some silicone spray lube ) but generally it will slip right through, then start the bolts at the upper bracket,, don't forget the ground wire that goes on one of them.

hi, i think the fuel pump is grounded inside the ECM, at least for fuel injected models, i had a 87 sedan with fuel inj that the fuel pump quit working. i thought it was not getting power but , i found it was getting power ( turn the key on and it had power for a couple of seconds) that is normal . if you cranked the motor over it had power continually , turned out it was a bad ground in the ecm. i made a separate ground to the body right by the pump and it was fine ever since.

Hi, thanks , first i am wondering if that main wire could or would cause the problem i'm having if it is bad . it is in the harness so i don't know where all it goes. if it could, then can i just run a big wire directly from batt pos to alt main terminal , and leave the 2 little ones alone ? thanks

hi, sorry, i posted wrong but i really doubt you will be able to turn them with any wrench,, Maybe a 24"-30" 1/2 inch breaker bar and 6pt socket, if an extension is needed be extra sure to keep it lined up straight or you'll just round off the bolt heads,, the best thing is to arrange for a good 1/2" impact and 6pt socket, however you can, rent or borrow.

hi, i need some help on my 84 wagon, i was on a trip overnight, suddenly the lights went dim and the guage showed discharge. i pulled over and turned off the lights and the guage went back up to charge a little over midway. i waited till daylight and continued my trip, for several days now the battery has not run down and after 1000 miles it still starts the motor and runs fine ,, BUT if i turn on the lights they come on dim and it shows a major discharge , same with the blower fan and cooling fan, runs but seems slow and the guage shows discharge. now the fun part, the alternator shows to be putting out full 13.8 voltage , using my multi meter, (even with lights on ) and its one of the nissan 90 amp that i had tested at the auto store and told it was fine. any idea whats up , where all does the main wire from the alt to battery run ? can i use a bypass direct batt + to alt connection wire to eliminate the harness one while keeping the two small ones as they are ? the battery has 13.4 v just sitting , it shows 14.4 v with motor running , and it shows 14.4 v with lights on (all 4) headlights on and the heater blower on high, so it must be getting charge, or am i missing something ? ideas , comments, help?? thank's

hi, my apology, i was thinking you were having the problem with the flexplate bolts that hold it to the crankshaft, and that you had the transmission , or engine , out of the car. since you are talking about the outer edge ones , you could apply heat from a torch and they will loosen up . the hardest thing for me has been to hold the crank from turning while wrenching on the bolt.

hi, the deal is you need a real impact wrench -- a quality 1/2" air impact , maybe borrow one , and good 6 point socket

Hi, did you allow anything for the adapter plate when you mounted the flywheel to the crank ? the adapter plate moves the entire trans and fork back from the flywheel , and it takes more of the arc to make up for that extra gap. and that reduces the actual lateral travel of the throwout bearing for the same cable travel, what i mean to say is the fork is at more of an angle when it's adjusted for the bigger gap and that will reduce the length of travel some for the given cable travel. you might be able to move the cable end mount position some and get the adjustment range better, it only needs a little to change the engagement from almost all the way up on the pedal , to correct at an 1" or 2 off the floor, maybe 2-3 turns of the adjuster nut. the real answer is in that gap difference from flywheel to trans is now more. a spacer between the crank and flywheel is what i mean, but it would need to be made so as to keep the flywheel centered too. just my thoughts

hi, if you mean the cone that is under the bevel washer and big hub nut , the subaru # is- 6230 24020 , it fits the front all and rear for 4x4 ea-81 and ea82 vehicles, but someone here should have one for you. there is a spacer in between the front inner and outer wheel bearings but it's not conical.

hi , i have that, pm sent

hi, on the ea-82 series there are 3 height variations, 4x4, longest, 2wd mid, and xt shortest, this is measure from the spring perch to the stop on the nub that goes into the steering knuckle, each is about an inch different. i am not sure if any ea-82 had the adjust , i thought only the ea-81 had that feature, one way to tell is the ea-81 has the coil spring centered on the strut , all the ea-82 had the spring offset on the strut at the bottom spring perch.

hi, not sure if your bypass is wrong but i think they have a switch that is on the clutch pedal and you have to have the pedal pushed down to allow the starter to work.

hi, slip joint pliers but if you break it the rings are not hard to get another one, unplug the wire connector first , that gives a bit easier access to it, spray water on it to act as a lube might help.

hi, the manual trans ones have tiny roll pins in the little holes in the side of the handle, use a tiny punch to tap them out. the auto trans ones have set screws in the little holes. if you have 4x4 button the disconnect is under the console unfortunately.

hi, the short answer is yes, if you take the nut off the pedal pivot bolt and slide the pedal off, it allows you to work on it at floor level . just be careful when sliding the pedal back on the shaft not to move the pivot bolt, the head on the other side sits in a notch to keep it from turning and be able to thigten the nut to(bottom out) , the bolt is easy to slide out of position, at least mine did, and then it binds the pedal when tightened.

hi, i use " freeze 12" its a r-12 substitute commonly available, but i think restricted to licence only buyers. it costs about the same as 134 but it is a better replacement than 134 if you can get some, and is fully compatible with r12 oil and seals. i have it in my 84 wagon and a couple of other subes and it does a good job in mine.

hi, i am pretty sure the brat inner tie rods will fit your wagon, you might check rockauto.com also for the parts, may find a better deal. the rack mount bushing(s) are not part of the inner tie rods, they are for mounting the actual steering rack assembly to the crossmember. my memory says that an 1982 has 1 end of the rack bolted directly and the other end has a bushing mount, if you are going to replace the inners you might as well do it, its real easy . if your inner tie rod boots are bad you need to replace them or you'll ruin the new ones soon. if you have a tight cv joint it could cause shake when driving, it might be hard to determine if it's tight with them installed.

hi, if you didn't know , the axle joints come in 2 sizes, 23 spline and 25 spline. it is possible to put the 25 size on the auto trans which uses the 23 spline( except turbo) if so it will be real loose as you describe. this is just something to check in the odd chance someone put the wrong ones on this car. the leaking seals can be fixed easy , but check if you have the correct spline count axles before you decide that your diff bearings are gone .

hi, it might be the wheel flange is alittle loose, the big nut on the axle and the cone washer can cause noise on turns, take the pin out and try to tighten the big nut, you should actually remove it and inspect the cone and flange but for sure at least try and tighten it.

hi , there are a couple of different forks that were used in ea-81 and ea-82, which one do you have installed? the fsm says some were 2:1 and some were 3:1 ratio of leverage. if you are sure the disc is turned the right way ,the fork might be the issue. also do you know what was the spec they used on the ea82 flywheel??

hi, the pilot bearing is supposed to turn it is a standard bearing and the inner race should turn smoothly, get another if it does not ! 2. the release bearing is a press on separate bearing on 2wd and non turbo transmissions, also the clutch is smaller diameter (200mm ,,,225mm for 4x4 and turbo) the little housing that slides on the trans snout is just that, a piece to hold the bearing and you need to get the new one put onto it. usually they are not a hard press ,can do at home with care. 3. i think that bearing is not needed i have seen them in other kits but your application doesn't use it. 4. the o-ring is not tapered originally, it forms to that shape due to the taper of the pump hole, use a standard o-ring , i think there are two thickness available with the correct ID and OD, use the thicker one. Be sure to get that rear main in properly , there have been several stories here about them coming out of the block , some aftermarket ones are a bit loose in the "fit " in the block.

hi, the push rods for hydrolic lifters are not the same as the ones for solid lifter , so be sure what you order is the type you need !

hi, i switched a turbo engine to a mpfi engine ,I am still using the original intake and wiring and ecm that was with the turbo car. so i think you only need change the exhaust and a few things like vac hoses , air intake , and block off the water pipe from turbo on the intake. i have been driving this car as a DD for 2 yrs and the original ecm , afm, inj's, and stuff works just fine.

Hi, you will definately need the rear suspension arms, basically you need to take the entire rear suspension with crossmember, swing arms, axles and brakes. its easiest to remove it all intact , just unbolt the entire crossmember assembly from the body along with the rear diff hanger bar and outer mounts, leave all the axles, diff and brakes all intact. this way it's just the big crossmember/ body bolts, the 4 rear hanger bolts, the brake lines at the body, its out.