ruparts

hi, some blocks have a metal cover right beside the rear main seal, this cover is prone to leak also. it has a gasket and about 6 bolts hold it to the block.

hi, turbo auto trans has 25 spline stubs

hi, does anyone know what the flow rate for xt6 yellow top injectors is ? i was thinking they would be pretty close to the same as 1.8 injectors since the cylinder bore and stroke is the same, but why wouldn't they just use the same ones used in the 4's ?

the xt6 lower control arm uses a bigger bolt to mount it to the crossmember, if you put them on a ea-82 crossmember you need to drill the holes to match the bigger bolt, and they tend to rub inside the crossmember pockets since they are a bit bigger on the end. maybe using the smaller bolts and letting the arms drop down a little is ok and that may not rub.

hi, only the xt6 uses a bigger rear rotor , and the backing plates have the caliper mounting holes farther from center to allow for that. the xt6 calipers , and all 4-lug calipers , will bolt on ANY of the backing plates, but if you are going to be using a 4lug rotor you need to use backing plates from a vehicle with 4lug wheels and brakes , not an xt6. you could use the xt6 calipers though. xt6 rear rotors have 5 lug holes. ALL of the calipers will bolt on to ANY of the backing plates , but you have to match the backing plates to the rotors you intend to use , 4lug or 5 lug. the pistons in the rear calipers have been made in at least 3 different diameters that i know of , possibly more , they are all "close to the same size" but they did make various size changes in those. the only problem would be if someone got two different sized ones on the car by mis matching parts and not knowing they have different sizes in the ea-82 series cars and the xt6's, most of us think they are all the same ,,, but not so.

hi, i want to differ with you on this , the calipers are not all the same diameter pistons, they will fit the backing plate mount the same, but there are at least 3 different size pistons that i have measured ,, perhaps even more. next , the 2wd disc backing plates will NOT fit on a 4x4 rear trailing arm,, the big center hole is a different size , however they might be able to be modified to fit, and vise versa. last, the xt6 backing plates , both 2wd or 4x4 will locate the calipers too far out from center for them to work with 4 lug rotors, causing a misalignment of pad to rotor. just making this note because not all things are truely equal on the rear disc brake swap parts!

hi, i thought the fuel cut thing was caused by excess boost pressure? giving full throttle mine will accelerate at first , then bog , then go again all the way to full rpm's , or , at say 3/4 throttle it will accelerate without the bog all the way??

hi, i have a similar problem, mine usually dosen't kick on till it is warm inside the car ( about the time you get to work in the cold) . after the fan kicks on ,its usually good till it gets cold again, next morning. can anyone help us? where is the blower motor relay?

hi, problem with these tanks is the filter screen is made into the tank and no way to get to them, bad fuel can make a goo gunk on the screen and it may slowly dessolve over time. you might disconnect the outlet from the pump , run it and check to see if it is pumping a good flow , that way you know if its cavitating and the inlet is partially restricted or not. if its making a good solid flow of fuel then the pump might just be a noisey one. either way the only thing you can do is to check to see how much flow its making from this tank. i'm not sure if these tanks are ok to take to the radiator shop and flush or not , i guess so, maybe others can advise what they did on theirs. if you did the normal tune up stuff the hesitation can be the injectors, if they sat 3 years too its likely they need some attention. it is common to take a couple hundred miles driving to get back to normal after a long down-time.

hi, you might have a look inside the fuel tank to see if it has any rust or other stuff in there that might be impeding fuel flow to the pump. there is a metal cover in the trunk area that will let you access the sending unit, remove it and have a look in the tank , then you know for sure . i've had to replace a good many rusty and contaminated tanks over the years, especially if it had been sitting for a long period. the knock sensor signal is designed to retard the timing if it detects detonation, its done inside the ECM so there is no adjusting it. otherwise it should not have any effect on normal running conditions.

if you can find a spyder intake & throttle body from a late 87 to 89 subaru xt , turbo preferably , they are the best intake for a ea-82 , the cams can be reground ( try delta cams) the o-ring block thing is a racing mod , needed for high pressure race motors with superchargers and turbos , if you don't know what that is you are only at the beginning part of a Loonngg learning curve , and you need to do a lot of research and reading before you start shoveling money at a project.

hi, these came with either nippondenso or hitachi distributors, if you replace it, the hitachi seems to hold up better, and most guys seem to prefer them . the coil needs to be the same as the distributor whitchever manufacturer you use, it has something to do about the resistance in the distributor electronics needs to match.

hi, on the timing belt issue, did you rotate the crank 1 full turn before installing the pass side belt? in the end it will have the cam gear marks opposite each other,, 1 up and 1 down , when the 3 marks on the flywheel are alligned to the pointer. i only mention this because somrtimes it is overlooked and both belts are installed with marks both up at the same time ,, that won't work.

hi,, that looks awsome, keep the swap pics coming as you progress. i might be interested in the original RX trans, whats its condition and avalibility situation ? also any of the orig shifters and diff-loc parts you don't use. thanks

hi, i have found that "some" so called direct fit mufflers , do not have the front section of pipe with the flange, that bolts to the mid section of pipe, they are not truely a direct fit replacement ! if you happen to have bought one like this it still needs welded to replace it. if you happen to have bought one that does have the front pipe with flange, then its just like edrach said.

hi , you have to turn the piston like a screw to get it back in, another thing to watch is, make sure when you finish the notches in the piston are lined up so the nubs on the backside of the new pads fit in them ! if you don't its going to cause problems with the brakes.

hi, i have a pass side rear door glass, if you were asking for that triangle one behind the door i don't have that one. please email me to work out details. 2jhollis@att.net , where are you located? thanks

hi, that solinoid is definately broken, that screw is screwed into the broken nipple,, there was once a vac hose connected there, perhaps it has also been removed or capped off. these are very common to break off because the nipple is so small, if you can find another one , fix it, if not just let it go. if the hose is not close by somone has deleated it already. i am going to have my air cleaner box off tomorrow and will take a pic of how it is plumbed up. not sure if i can post it here , i'll try.

hi, if your 87 wagon (did not have a turbo motor in it originally), you are going to need wiring from a turbo vehicle , 4-dr or wagon , to make a ea82T run. spfi wiring will not run a mpfi system so there is your main problem, then you need a turbo ecm, you will need a turbo front suspension crossmember to allow the exhaust crossover pipe to fit, a turbo downpipe, rerout a lot of hoses and vac lines , and egr pipes. basically you have to rewire the front half of the vehicle,, as the other reply said ,, (you opening a huge can of worms) , unless your original wagon was a turbo vehicle to start with. and small rewards for your efforts, and there will likely be more problems down the road cause the ea82t has a bad reputation that has been earned honestly.

hi, i think you should take the alternator in for a checkup , if your model has the external voltage regulator , then it is a prime suspect, i think that it is where the fuel pump voltage is supplied also. even if you have a external regulator get the alternator checked. i think about 1981 or 82 is when they started with the voltage regulator built in the alternators.

Hi, thank you for the link(s) the aus guys at least show something that is supposed to fit. i know the ea-81 and impreza or any of the later suby wheels don't fit the ea-82's. i have been trying to ask if any of the nissan models about that same era will fit. so far i cannot even find one of those locally to look at so i don't want to order one just to see, about $40 and up online . it's not just the spline count , its that pesky taper that is the real issue , if it just had a shoulder to tighten against it would be ok with just a spline match. the adapter has to have that taper to tighten on the ea-82 upper steering shaft , and a spline match. did you order one from ausi land to do the one in your pics ? nice setup BTW !

hi, the 87 gl turbo would have had a 3.7 i think , if it was a manual trans. the "new" doner trans probably is too, most all of them were in those model years. the xt6 manual trans had a 3.9 front diff. i have never seen a sticker on any trans to say what ratio diff they have. if it's an automatic it might be 3.9

hi, ok ,, i was trying to find out if the 1-5 gears from the xt6 trans will fit up in a dual range case to the front hi/lo gears ,, i don't think they will , but still have not found out "for sure" . i have a regular d/r trans from a wagon , and what i wanted to do was put xt6 1-5 gears in it , they are a different ratio each, i would use all of them but i wanted to know if they will "fit" in the dual range transmission first. the parts book shows single range and dual range (1-5) gears look different at the front where the dual range input set go together with the mainshaft set. what you gonna do with the xt6 leftovers? thanks

hi, ok , so you used the rx case and d/r gear set, and the 3.9 diff from the xt6 trans,, is that correct ? but did you use the 1-5 gears from the xt6 trans , or the 1-5 gears from the rx ? thanks

Hi, is the trans you modified a dual range case??? i want to ask more about just what you did. you have to use a d/r case to have a d/r , not sure if the 1-5 main gear set and shaft is the same for the d/r and the fulltime. i think the main shaft is different where it fits up to the d/r gear set . the xt6 trans has a slightly higher ratio on all the 1-5 gears which is slightly different from the 1-5 ratios on the 4-cyl fulltime trans. i had been wanting to convert a RX close ratio d/r trans with 3.7 front diff , and use a xt6 1-5 gear set in it. after looking at the parts book the pieces look like you can't connect fulltime parts in a d/r case or d/r parts in a fulltime case. the parts look different where the front of the main shaft gearset fits up to the d/r gears. if anyone else has more actual hands on, i also would like to learn more on what will or will not fit together.