ruparts

hi, the coolant temp sensor for the FI , or the connections to it are the first suspect, the air thing on the throttle body can cause trouble, the air flow meter and especially air leaks anywhere in the entire intake system ,, look for cracked hoses and hoses that may have fell off ,, anything that can let air into the intake system.

Hi, i have not been able to locate an install kit or hub adapter for the steering shaft for the loyale and late 80's GL cars,, what are you guys using to mount your aftermarket steering wheel ? is there any info you can post for this ? thanks

hi, the engine light , and the code read light , are two different things. if you want to read the codes stored in the ecm , plug in the proper read memory connectors and follow the directions . the ecm light will flash the codes,, starting with the lowest number code it has stored , and proceeds to the next , and the next , until it has shown all the codes stored ,,, at which point it will start over again, it continues to flash the codes till you turn off the ignition switch or disconnect the test connectors. you need a pencil and paper to write down any codes so you don't get lost in all those flashes,, and like i said the entire sequence of stored codes will repeat ... longs flashes are= 10 , shorts flashes are = 1 ... longish pauses are the interval between each of the numbered code flashes. be sure you understand how to read the flashes .. the engine light is a different issue, fixing any codes shown in the ecm may likely fix the engine light.

hi, yes its a little led light inside a little hole in the case, no reset button as far as i know. the codes start with the lowest numbered one first and runs through them all to the highest numbered one and then it begins a repeat . you must have read the book judging from your first post so you might have cleared the codes already, there is a sequence of flashes that indicate no codes present , but i don't remember what it is offhand. maybe 4 short and does not repeat, something like that.

hi, many times the connections are more at fault than the actual sensor, be sure to check for the green corosion that is usually on the connections ! and some times the green bad extends inside the insulation up the wires several inches, if you find this , just get an new connector with pigtails and cut back till you find good wire on the harness, and splice there. the connector is the same as FI connectors. another thing is the O2 sensor, if it is not working right it usually causes the FI to go rich rather than lean, your FI will like having proper signals from these 2 sensors.

hi, i have an original 88 RX and the diffs are 3.7 , i also had a fulltime awd turbo sedan and it had 3.7 , i think the trans you got probably is also. sure wish i had another RX trans to put in my xt.

hi, its hard to say for sure but , i was thinking the 25 spline d/r was a turbo car unit and would have 3.7 front diff. you do need to find out for sure somehow. main thing is, if it's 3.7 you can get an open rear diff cheap , there should be plenty of them around that area, even the ea-81 rear units will work in your car. the front diff should (Only) be 3.7 or 3.9 as far as i know. the 25 spline front axles are the same as 23's other than the inner doj, happy hunting.

hi, i want to throw something in here , according to the wiring diagrams for the ea82 series cars the injectors are wired in pairs, and after looking closely , it appears they must fire 2 times in each 720 degree rotation of the cranksahft, which is one cylinder's complete power cycle . so it makes sense that they would use an injector that is roughly 1/2 the rate needed for a "fire once per cycle system". if anyone would like to comment about this i would like to hear what their thoughts are , but i know the injectors are wired in pairs so it sure looks like each of them will fire twice in every 720 degrees rotation.

hi, you might get better response over at NASIOC.com that board is mainly for newer era vehicles,, anyway its worth a look.

hi, from what you have described , it sounds like you found the problem . i had a similar experience with mine once. if you have any access to salvage yard parts try another one or two. these are expensive to buy new. any subaru from 87-91 i think is the same, the part is made-on to the coil bracket, so just plug & play. maybe someone on the board has a spare one to sell, post in the parts wanted section, or reply to ads parting out cars. let us know if it fixes it.

hi, i think he is talking about the " sleeve " for the lifters, if they are loose enough to slip in and out of the head they might rotate to a position that the oil port is blocked , that would be a problem if it did occur. the lifters really don't move up and down once installed but if the sleeve rotated they might not get oil . my thought is make sure the sleeve's oil holes are aligned properly with the oil passage and they are all the way down in the bore, then stake the top edge so they cannot rotate. maybe someone else has had this before , i have not noticed it on the ones i worked on .

Hi, +1 for what stephen115 said, once you get the trim panel off unplug the motor from the harness and put 12v to the 2 wires giong into the motor. reversing the 12v will move it either up or down. if it does not move then the motor is dead , or the mechanism is very stuck, if it does move, look for another problem like switch or bad connection. i think i have a replacement if you need one. the rear mechanism for the hardtop is kinda weird.

I offered him a complete 4x4 setup ( in dallas) for 125. whatever

hi, just so you know the 2wd has a different size clutch than the 4x4 models, and the throwout brng and fork is different too, so be sure which you order. good idea to replace the rear main seal at this time and some blocks have an inspection plate with gasket on the back of the block beside the rear main. both can leak and cause a lot of smoke cause they always drip onto the exhaust pipe. there has been discussion here about aftermarket rear main seals not staying in place, you might want to use a real subaru one if possible. good luck with everything.

hi, no problem , glad to help if i can. i have saved several of these , i may have the one you need but not sure. if you send me a PM with your email i can exchange a picture or two and perhaps i have it. did you find out if this is actually what was causing your gas fumes problem? it could be a leak somewhere under the hood.

Hi, I want to correct the mistaken idea that these tensioners are hydrolic, these are spring tensioners! they do not have any hydrolic function at all. the oil put in is to lubricate them, and there is no port for pressure to enter anywhere on them, they have a wind up spring inside and will only take up slack as it is presented and do not give any back, its a one way slack tensioner with no give back. you can make the little tool to hold it compressed from a little strip of sheet metal. the pivot and bearing assembly is what normally wears out, those you can buy new . you might be able to get a used tensioner from someone with xt6 parts left, try asking on subaruxt.com . the rubber boot on the top of the tensioner is needed to keep them clean inside so they work. good luck on the hunt !

Hi , NO its where they said, its hides behind a metal pillar there, remove the right rear interior trim panel that goes over the wheel and you will be able to find it, look for the hoses coming from the fuel tank at the bottom and some metal shields that cover it, has about half dozen 10mm bolts and the hose connections to remove.

I have both sides power motors and mechanism if you decide on the power window , what and where was cut ? have the power ones been removed from your doors, or did they stop working? sometimes its the switchs or a fuse.

hi, you might look at the lines and canister in the pass side rear compartment, its inside the fender betweet the trim panel and fender. looks like a big plastic tank with lines attached, even though you disconnected the stuff up front this is still connected to the tank, and i had one that was cracked once that smelled gas inside the car. just my 2cents.

hi, I just want to add that the shifter bushings "might" be the problem, if they are worn really bad and the shifter can barely get it into 4th due to lack of travel in the linkage. just saying, cause if it doesn't jump out once it gets in gear that could be it. mine had the same symptoms and it was the shift linkage bushings, replaced them and its been good ever since.

Hi, if you unplugged the motor from inside the door wiring harness and used 12v directly to the motor connector , it should go , if not the motor is bad. i just had the same thing on my xt, after a lot of trial and error i had to put in another motor assembly. as far as getting the window up i don't think any way other than to unbolt it and slide it up, maybe able to wedge it in the up position some way till you get another motor assy.

I think the rotors for 83 were solid but 84-87 (ea-81)had vented rotors ,, and the calipers were opened to accept the wider vented rotors . best to ask for 84 parts that way you get vented style parts , and not ea-82 parts.

hi, i'm not sure about the 82 cars but the 85-89 cars have a engine computer under the steering column. the fuel pump on those is normal to run only when the motor is turning, and will not run with just the ign switch on. when you first turn on the ign switch it will run the pump for a second or two, then go off. the pump ground circuit goes to the engine computer for a ground, i have found sometimes that it is gone bad and the problem you are having is the result. run a separate wire to ground the pump and see if it will run then, again the engine has to turn to cause the pump to run except that first 2 seconds after you turn on the ign switch. with a new ground it should show voltage to the pump cranking the engine, if it does then its working and should look for other issues.