ruparts

hi, i have had the same trouble on my 87, the amplifier is behind the glove box mounted to the side of the evap box. there are 2 versions, at least in 87 there was, Hitachi systems and matsu************a systems, need the right one if replacing it. the FSM has a lot of info on both systems but your 93 may be some other system. on mine there is even 1 wire from the ecm that goes to the a/c system, i tried to follow the fsm manual and diagrams but my electrical knowledge was not up to the task and was unable to make mine work with the button on the panel. i push the a/c button and got blower fan and proper vents but no a/c clutch and increased idle sol, i did see those were on the same circuit on mine so i put in a separate switch for that function and have working a/c but have to remember to turn it off. all in all i believe my amplifier or that pressure switch is at fault but when i found that it could be the ecm i quit and wired in another switch and enjoyed the cool .

hi, the EA-82 type spfi and mpfi tanks are interchangable, the carburator vehicle tanks use a different size hose connections. turbo or non turbo has no bearing on these, only if if it is FI or carb, use any fi tank from 85-89 for sure and probably till 91. any EA-82 body style with FI .

the short answer is yes, but sometimes part of the plastic switch housing will be broken or melted, the little rollers stand inside breaks, then its no, but you can take them apart and clean all the contacts and put it back together, its necessary to assemble all the switches on the master at one time so its a bit tedious to do. just be sure to get the little rocker contacts turned correctly, they are not symetrical as they appear at first.

the front and rear outer ends are not the same, you will need a front to fix the front.

hi, not sure how to test one but there were 2 different ones for the ea82 motors, 85-86 and 87 on, first is a 2 pin unit with a white plastic upper portion and the more recent is a 1 pin with green plastic upper portion, they just thread in the block. hard to find the early ones, but i think they used them on the jdm engines for more years.

hi, i had a car that kept on clacking after a reseal job,, i eventually found a chunk of silicone in a oil passage in the cam case. there is a brass restrictor pressed in the oil passage of the cam case, and it traps anything bigger than a pencil lead , the portion of the oil passage is between the cam and the head surface, you have to remove the cam case and the cam to clear it out. its not only once, i have found this same blockage in several ea-82 motors so it could be the trouble on this one. i had to learn the hard way and only found this after a lot of examination of the oil system passages, its a good chance yours is partially blocked, the symptoms sound just the same.

hi, the xt rack will fit in place of a std 85-89 wagon rack, the xt rack has an aluminum housing and it has a quicker steering ratio than the wagon rack, which has a stamped steel housing. the tie rods and ends also fit. the xt6 rack is different yet, and the tie rods and ends are different from the wagon, it uses a special fluid and not sure it will last with regular dexron atf in it. basically the racks will swap out, xt - wagon with no changes at all, the xt6 you would have to put the wagon tie rods and ends on it, and the fluid thing is a gamble.

hi, i know they are made in several material variations, i bought one and it showed up like a thin felt material, had to return it for a carpet type. i don't remember which vendor it was.

hi , i found that with the flywheel on the cam marks and left side cam mark pointed up, the distributor rotor is pointed straight at the radiator cap, that should be close enough to run and have adjustment.

Hi, there were some of the spacers that had no egr pipe, i guess it was one side only or whatever but i know they did cause i have a couple of them i saved. they fit just like the others but without a pipe connection. not wanting to get rid of them but just so you know they are out there.

Hi , you might check the ign switch, take the lower half of the cover off and the electric section of the switch is right there. sometimes the attaching screws are loose, sometimes the switch is going bad, the plastic input notch gets worn and the key section doesn't turn it completely, the inside contacts can go bad. the symptoms are alike , is like you hit on the starter but it maybe was just a coincidence the switch caught again at that time.

Hi, did you put the small wire that just plugs on back? try moving the shifter back and forth a bit ( still in park position) while trying to start it with the key,, try the same thing in neutral,, if it starts the NS switch needs adjusted.

hi, not advise, but i have done this process with a broken clutch cable which is like a bad T-O bearing in that you cannot use the clutch. if it starts easy and runs ok you can start it in 1st and just shift without pushing the clutch at all, you have to be careful and not force it , but get the rpm's matching the speed and it slips right in the next gear,, you can downshift this way too, just have to get your rpms right and it will slip right in. shift to nutural if you have to stop, turn it off and start it in 1st again and so on. its a pain but it can get you there being careful. anyone to follow along to keep traffic off of you on the way, that helps in the stress department.

Hi, i agree with markjw on checking out the coolent temp sensor, and the connections to it sometimes get really corroded...this can cause a lot of issues with the FI . but i was thinking it was the one behind the intake runner on the right side of the intake manifold, with 2 wires. and thinking the one by the thermostat housing was for the instrument guage / indicator light. mine is mpfi not spfi so are they different on that? also you might take the iav off and spray clean it inside, and put it back, they get stuck sometimes, its supposed to regulate a variable amount of air into the intake, depending on what the coolent temp sensor is telling the ecm your engine temp is.

hi, what type fuel system, does it have those chunky square valve things on the EGR system, mounted near the rear of the heads ? they go bad , leak exhaust gasses internally and cause similar problems, the exhaust gasses can go where they should not.

the guage in the cluster can be changed out, and still reuse all the rest of it , its a pesky job to take the cluster out and take it apart . the addition of a real temp guage is a good idea and much easier.

you need an auto radiator , or cooler for it, the rear mounts are different i think, need the flex plate and the shorter crank bolts, you can maybe just slip the clutch pedal off the shaft to get it out of the way if you don't find the right pedal box set. need the correct rear hanger for the y pipe, the auto assembly shifter will mount to the floor ok, but not sure the wiring is in there for the big switch and all. instrument panel indicators will be different. seems a lot of work to go through for not any positive gain. easier to teach them to drive the manual and the know how to, would last their lifetime. i have a ea81 4x4 auto shifter assembly.

I stand corrected, i really thought they had a center lsd in them. thank you for putting me straight on that.

Hi, if you are trying to remove the rear axle, use a punch and drive the rollpin out, both ends have one on the rear, then it slips off the stub axles. you need it off to remove the stub shaft on the rear swingarm. remove the big nut and brake rotor and the wheel flange can slip off. the stub axle then will drive out towards the inside side of the swingarm. the swingarm bearing then has a lockring to remove and then press out. Sorry GD i was replying at the same time. ++1 for what GD said about the stuck splines, they can be terrible sometimes .

+1

hi, check if the adjustment nut backed off on any of the rockers, just rotate the motor and keep checking for any that have clearance. same process as setting them for the solid lifter motor. if you find one with clearance reset it. it is possible that something actually broke, lifter collapsed, or rocker tip, broke valve spring, spring retainer / keepers released, bad pushrod or bent, etc..

Hi, I think you should check the big axle nut(s) on the axles, they sometimes work slightly loose and do that. its common for the cone washer to wear a slight ridge on it and not seat the flange properly or just cause a slight wobble if torqued as in braking and even around curves sometimes cause a noticable noise, that was what mine was doing. the front is more likely. tighten the nut very tight but check if your cone is in good shape first.

Hi, +1 on what themoneypit said about the fan coming on,, my experience has been the connecdtion to the fan switch rather than the actual switch itself, but if you disconnect the wire to it, and jumper it to ground the fan should come on, if it does not run then the fan, or the power circuit to it is not working, (fuse , bad comnnection, bad fan motor, etc) the switch only makes the ground for the circuit. mine runs up to just at or slightly above half on the guage before the fan kicks on, some day i'm going to put in a slightly lower temp switch so it kicks in slightly sooner. congrats on the new score !

Hi, that last comment might indicate your fuel tank might have a lot of rust or some other contaminents that are partially clogging the fuel screen, and it settles while sitting for a while, but stirs up again as you use it again. i did have that problem on an xt i had, it would run down the road for a few blocks then die, restart and go a ways, then die again, idle was ok , but no speed over about 40 could be reached. my tank was full of crud in the bottom. there is a access plate for the fuel guage sender over the top of the tank, its easy to lift out the sender to look inside the tank with a flashlight to check. i sort of don't think the fuel is being pulled through the fi system as you described, i do think if it will start and run at all the fuel pump is working, these are quiet pumps.

Hi, reading along this, and your original thread , the problems could be as simple as OLD GAS, almost all the issues you describe are consistant with a car that sat for some time and the gas is gone bad. it only needs a few months to cause these type problems. did you pump out the old gas and put fresh in before running your newly repaired motor? if no , you should do that, and even then it could take 2-3 hundred miles driving to get normal again. the connection at the coolent temp sensor for the fi is a known problem for these cars and if it is not getting a good signal the fi may be seeing the engine as cold and causing a over rich condition when warmed up. Also +1 for what ROBM said above.