ruparts

I dont have a picture of one but the hitachi distributor has a cap that is screwed on and the rotor has a hole in the side of it to put a screw into the shaft to hold it in place, that is what your asking right? does your distributor shaft have a small threaded hole in the side near the top. the other type rotor for ND has a flat side and no screw to hold it on.

hi, i had a similar experience with my 87, fine on short runs but at sustained hiway speeds it would go up some , to almost hot. I had installed a new thermostat, so i changed it back, problem gone . the one i had put in had a smaller total flow hole, (main opening) than the one i put back. so aftermarket thermostats are not all created equal, or equal to OEM. also ignition timing is important at higher speeds.

hi, you did not mention which vehicle was the doner car for the rear brakes, but there are at least 3 different rear caliper variations used on EA-82 vehicles, the caliper piston diameter that is. they all fit the same and same pads, so you would not notice it, xt6 is smallest and wag-sedan is largest, if you are using the smaller piston calipers you can reduce the effective rear braking force some by using the larger piston version caliper. this might be easier than fitting valves inline and worth a try first, they are a direct fit and pads everything. might be the difference you need to lighten up the rear clamping force just a little.

hi, you need to use a mpfi to allow the fuel injection to function, the turbo is mpfi and all the wiring and injection is for mpfi. that part you want to retain, you can use a spfi short block and put mpfi heads on it and that will work, but it needs mpfi heads on whatever engine you put in so the orig injection system stays intact. unless you want to re-wire the car for spfi, i would not advise that.

hi, i just did one , you have to use the mpfi version motor, i used : the original turbo intake manifold and throttle body all the original vehicle engine wiring, injectors everything just lifted from the turbo to the mpfi long block. original wiring plugs back in. the plumbing from the maf meter to the throttle body needs the original mpfi intake hose for easiest , but make all crankcase and valve cover vent hoses and purge lines route like an original mpfi car should be. there is a 4th vent line on the canister to eliminate, and put a cap over that port on the canister, make every thing just like a mpfi car would have. disconnect that turbo vacuum unit on the fenderwell if your car has that, ( not the cruise control unit) and re-route vac lines like a mpfi car should be. that is about it, mine is doing great, use the original distributor and ECM from the car you basically use everything from the original car except the long block, and fix all the vent and vac lines.

The ground circuit is taken care of in the ECM, just run a new ground from the pump and it should be ok.

Hi, Those are color coded , black, green , red, and blue i think , the proper location and color is on the lid of the black box, get them from almost any old subaru at the wrecking yard. if the ones you have are homade from regular wire you stand a chance of burning up some wiring and stuff, you need to get the correct ones for this !!

Hi, check the big nut that is on the front axle, if that is a bit loose can do this, also check the cone washer under the nut if they run loose they wear a notch and then never get tight properly.

Hi, if it is a manual trans, put it in gear and set the handbrakes, that should hold it , then use a big handle on the socket, 2ft or 30inch , or use a long cheater pipe on the handle.

did you see the oem part numbers i posted for you in your other post.

Hi, the factory parts book i have says your dist should be # 22100 AA221 for turbo 86 , and vac unit #22301 AA110 , ECM # 22611 AA033 these are 86 only according to what i have to go by, 87 shows different .

Hi, The book shows 88 spfi has ecm# 22611 AA390 , 87 has , 22611 AA201 , and the ignition switch sounds suspect to me, that thing where nothing goes off while cranking. do check for a missing or loose screw that holds the rotor in place, i think hitochi dist have em and nippon do not. have you moved the timing up and back some to check for better results? did the car sit a long time , bad gas can be hard to get going. can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the ign to ON. just for a couple seconds? is the spark output from coil breaking like pop, pop,pop when you crank the motor over, if not check that transister thing on the coil bracket. You do have the 4 wire disty ? Hope this can help some.

Hi, There is a service procedure in the manual about replacing that vac modulator. but i think it is supposed to connect to a little link that connects inside the trans, so when the diaphram in the modulator moves it moves the link and the inner something. I am not a trans guy but i read through this one time working on one. maybe someone has more details on how to adjust it. there were adjustment notches mentioned. LOL

Hi, Just a quick check on the Big nut on the front axles,, Mine had "worked loose" a little and caused a bad shudder like that , also a noise when driving that was intermittant, but worse in turns. LOL

Hi, if you pull your cluster first you can look behind to see if the plugs are there.

Hi, i noticed you said the spring perch looks lower, make sure you have clearence for the tires . interesting thread !

Hi, glad to have the input, on the high elev yes it can use a couple more , they have some compensator thing on the right side by the strut. and i have seen a high elev kit setup for carb cars. anyway on the timing i wasn't sure that you have to do something besides just plug it in. the d-check uses that plug and you have to go through a procedure like ign on full throttle then let it off to 1/2 and hold few seconds then release it then start the motor. i even tried that but still shows the same plugged or not. Right now i have 24 also and it seems best , i noticed if i change it much i get a pretty good temp rise above 65 mph. maybe someone familiar with it will give us the answer to the mystery.

Hi, from what you describe it indicates a head gasket or cracked head allowing some compression and high temp from the cylinders into the water system inside the engine. if it does the over flow before it even gets warm you have pressure getting into the water. even if the water pump were bad it would have to get up to a higher temp before water would overflow. Best thing to diagnose it is a cooling system pressure test, just a little hand pump with guage for pressure , goes on the radiator in place of the cap, and if it don't hold pressure then you have a leak inside probably. almost any shop , even auto stores have them, might check it for free since it is such a simple test. good luck with it

I thought it was a fiero spoiler, maybe they are the same, and i have wanted to see how one would look on an xt.

bump, any tech help ? thanks

Hi, if you have time to wait for parts shipped, RockAuto online has the best prices on brake pads that i found, and have been very good to deal with , i got a wrong part, called them, they just sent another, didn't even want the wrong one back. and ebay is ok sometimes for parts.

Hi, trying to set the timing on my 87 mpfi. I want to ask if anyone has had an issue with setting their timing . I know you need to plug together the green connectors, my question comes from it doesn't seem to make any difference if they are plugged or not. I warmed the engine going on an errand, then turn off the ign. plug the connectors then restart the engine, I then set at 20-btdc, turn off the engine, unplug the connectors , then restart the engine, timing is still reads the same with my light. Is there any other steps in getting the car ready to check & set the timing other than just simply plug together the connectors while the car is off? and why would it then have the same reading with them unplugged? the book says the idle switch needs to be "on" , i have not checked to see if it is set correctly but i havn't moved it. It acts like it is the same plugged or not?? whats up

Hi, I have an xt parts catalog , the upper shows: till 12-86= 21029ga030, after 1-87= 21047ga870. the lower shows: 21029ga020. Hope this helps some.

Hi, there is a keyway, but just for the two cam drive gears, there is a short roll pin in some of the outside cam drive gears and not in others. if your pulley has a hole like the one pictured you can use the roll pin, if the pulley has no hole then no roll pin. but if you get it tight with the bolt it does not matter. the timing is set from the flywheel so the pulley can be rotated to any position . i'm not sure why but i noticed that the engines that have the two piece crank pulley with the rubber imbedded in it used the pin and those with the 1 piece pulley had no pin, and i am not sure why they had two different pulleys anyway. seems the turbo and the mpfi had the two piece and carb and spfi had the 1piece pulley. good luck with the repair

Hi, Thanks for the input, i sort of thought it would be ok but wanted to ask. my center carrier has a lot of movement, the bearing is smooth, just the rubber part. so i thought of a 1 piece for the simplicity, and less parts too. if i can find a carrier brng assembly that fits, I think the carrier is not available for our subarus as a separate part, does someone know a number to buy that fits, maybe a datsun or something else?? Thanks