ruparts

hi, the coolent temp sensor for the fi system, and it's connections, they give symptoms similar to what you have described, any chance you missed connecting it or knocked a wire loose and not notice. they do cause trouble like your symptoms, especially as the temp comes up, and are known to give trouble on these cars.

hi, what he said, yes, and the original trans will hold up to "no" big smokey burnouts with or without fat meats on there, it will break very quick, nothing on an ea81 was meant to take anything close to the power of a v8 of any type. do your research and learn all you can,, read read read.

hi, the factory parts book shows different numbers depending on if a 4-dr , or a wagon, not sure they interchange or not. they look alike but may not be exact swap. BTW the oem is over $800.

TIRE ?

hi, i have collected a few rear axles and noticed there are some with double slip type joints and some with a fixed outer joint. went to the fsm and they mention that the range of travel is greater by using double slip type joints, they also mention the actual shaft (between the joints) is a different length, but not by much and i don't have the numbers on hand. i know others will say the shafts are the same but the fsm and the my tape rule disagree. bottom line is i think if a person used the "longest shafts" (and that might be the ones with a single fixed joint, i cannot tell you for sure) ,, but using the longest center shafts and put on 2 slip type joints you would have a better setup for lifted vehicles. there is a company i've seen mentioned on this board, mme or mwe, anyway they are said to do a lot of subaru axles and even custom setups, so they might have the answers and parts you need. btw my xt6 rears have the 2 doj's and i think they are larger beefier joints too, but fit the same spline axles and stubs.

hi, i had good success with this problem by opening the gap on the top of the door itself. the sheet metal inside upper edge where the door trim panel is held, i just took slip joint pliers and bent the metal back to move the edge back away from the glass "a little", all the way across the door, this let that rubber have more room. and it didn't grab any more like your pic shows. you might have good success with the glass adjustment with the rollers but i didn't so another point of view.

Hi, the spyder intake was on the NA xt engines in 88-89, so they came turbo, 87-1/2 and NA 88-89, on xt only.

there are actually 2 solinoids on the ea82's the egr sol, and also a purge sol, it has to do with fuel vapors and purges the canister if i understood what i read about it correctly. not sure which one that pic is.

hi, if your instrument cluster has a guage i think they should have the big sender, that is like 2" long and 1-1/2" diameter one, if you put a little one (used with the light) on it, that might give a bad reading, but the best test is a mechanical guage and then you know what the pressure really is. another thing is the factory guage are not always correct reading, and if matched with an aftermarket sender , the reading can be off by a fair amount, and not actually represent a reliable reading.

the 84 vehicle, we refer to them as ea81 because that series of cars had ea81 engines. the power steering racks for this series of cars, IS NOT the same rack as the 85-90 or so ea82 cars, the ea81 racks bolt on directly to one end of the crossmember, and have a bushing with a clamp on the other end. the later ea82 racks have a bushing and clamp on both ends of the rack. the original pumps were belt driven but as mentioned anything is possible. the simple way is to get everything from a doner car so you have all the complete setup, some folks have said the p/s racks will only fit p/s crossmembers, but i tend to think it will fit but the non p/s crossmember will not have the holes in it for the lines. it's not a really difficult conversion but thats if you have all of the stuff needed, also the flexible connector from steering column to rack is different on the p/s setup from the manual setup.

hi, i think you are correct in the overall information, the oil supply that supplies the oil tube squiters would need to be retained. the actual lifter passage would not be needed for this solid configuration, i know you know, but the installed height for your sla would need to be as original with the hla to maintain correct rocker geometry. seems a lot of effort to do it, but i don't see there will be a gain that is equally great, some i guess, but not a whopping dyno buster mod imo. make sure your tip radius and size match oem hla's and be sure to provide the little recess in the tips to retain oil in there for the rocker cup end. i see no reason it can't work just as you outlined. btw in the old days, 50's to me, guys ran solid lifters on hyd cams as a performance mod, the hyd grind they say had more lift and duration than a comparable solid grind for the era, but idk , i was a kid then just learning all i could about hot rods. post back as you proceed i'd be interested in your experiment and results.

hi, i applaud you for the job you've been doing , been following some of your threads and you have done a lot of work on this one! anyway the solinoids have little plastic nipples for the vac hoses to them,, very- very easy to break off and the hose will still be in place so it looks ok at first glance, but no actual connection since its broken. ( vac leak and no function), your's might just be non functional but usually they get broken first. they are very $$ to buy, so look for them like jj421 was saying. they are basically just an electrically operated valve, and a lot of other cars have them,, possibly a refit of something nissan or?? might be a possibility. thinking the purge one takes the vapors from the charcoal canister and sends them through the intake to burn at startup, or something like that,, the egr one ithink actually has to function to make the egr valve function, if it have it wrong hopefully someone can fill in more.

Hi, the xt had it's own manual set from the start, i have a set of 85 xt manuals so i could see the wiring differences of the changes they made 85-88. the 87 does cover the turbo stuff you are asking about, turbo with spyder intake is the rare setup,, but the spyder intake on NA motors was used in 88and 89 xt4.

Hi, i have seen mention of a test for the cooling system to determine if it has ehhaust gasses getting into the water. i have a vehicle that has a newly serviced radiator , hoses , water pump belts,180 thermostat, 2nd one actually, and still it will sit and idle till it boils out the fill like a guyser. i'm thinking either the fan is not moving enough air across the radiator or a head gasket / cracked head. any advice on where i can get a test for the exhaust gas thing, is it a DIY thing or have to take it to someone? thanks for any opinions

hi , you will need to be sure the new pump is the same back to pulley flange dimention,, these era cars have used 2 different ones, 105mm and 110mm , the measure is from mounting surface to front of pulley flange. a real pain to get done and find the pulleys don't align up.

Hi, you can leave the pass side alone, the driver side is the one in rear of the pair but is on it's own cog on the crank. just be sure that you have the flywheel marks on the pointer, the cam gear aligned right, and the other one is opposite (down ) in this case. IMPORTANT: you must have the pass side aligned straight down (opposite the driver side) when you set this or your belts will still be off time,, best to do a rotation and double check both when you get done.

Hi, + 1 on the coolent temp sensor, the connections often get corroded or the sensor can be bad. look for any bad area in the intake air tube , maf to turbo and turbo to throttle body, check carefully , sometimes there is a hose cracked, or disconnected and makes a bad vacuum leak. Miles said the coil bracket amplifier but i don't think they had those in the 86 model. it could be the fuel pump ground they did have issues, if it will start and run sometimes, that may not be your problem. have you checked the ignition rotor to see if it is loose on the shaft, i think those models had a set screw that holds it in place and they sometimes come out. if it is firm on the shaft , crank over the motor and watch to see if it is turning, if it is not then you have a bad timing belt. when you try to crank it does the coil wire to distributor send spark repeatedly,, check this stuff and likely one or 2 will get you going.

hi, i just want to throw this in , because it happens fairly often but not too many folks realize it. the oil feed passage in the cam carriers have a small restrictor plug oriface pressed in the passage, and , IT WILL TRAP , debris, old silicone chunks, gasket material, etc, etc,, in the oil passage and restrict flow to the lifter galley. i have found this to be the problem in several cases and there are several threads ( some with pics ) on here explaining the problem.. others have also found this to be their problem,, especially if the ticking is intermittant or only some of the time. bottom line to this is,, the "trap passage" is in the cam carrier , it's that short ( aprox 1") run between the cam journal and that brass restrictor plug, you have to slip the cam out of the carrier to clear it!

hi, that looks like a thing i looked up one time to find out what it did,, and from what i could get from my search was a anti gravity vent, it mounted high up ( above the tank level) in the venting system and if inverted will close or open ( not sure how it functions) but it had to do with fuel venting control in case of a roll over accident. i do know it is supposed to be mounted a certain way because if inverted it closes ( opens) not sure,, but point is it would be backward from normal operation. it is not electrical in any way , but is supposed to work by gravity operation. i can't tell you which end is supposed to be up or down.

Hi, i looked this up in my 88 parts book> 91017 GA750 is the subaru number for 87-88 vehicles.

hi, 1982 gl vehicles had the orange,, i am not sure if 1981 models did , but all the 83,84 and later gl's, and brats have white. you can put the orange guages in the later cars but you need to use the vehicle's original housing and circuit board, just install the guages in it.

Hi, thank you for your answer, but, i already said the numbers are the ecm for a 1981, i am trying to determine what the little box in the picture is, it has wires to it that are a part of the ecm harness and a in line fuse holder. numbers on it are in the pic.

HI, YOU NEED TO USE YOUR ORIGINAL DISTRIBUTOR !

hi, you need to verify the ignition rotor is turning,, you might have a broken timing belt, the left one drives the cam/distributor , usually it is the one to go, they also can blow off a couple of the teeth on them and cause the timing to be way off, but still turn the cam/distributor so try to check the t-belt condition.

hi, i would try to manually disengage it, try to see if the linkage is just stuck or binding. i had a manual select 2wd /4wd just needed to move the lever on the trans and it worked fine after that, just stuck. the inner cable from the diaphram might be stuck and the vacuum just can't move it, if you can get to the lever or whatever on the trans try and move it there, might have to disconnect the linkage to try it. automatics have a circular thing on the shifter linkage it's the selector switch and i don't think that would be affecting the 4wd lock.