ruparts

Hi,, i had to replace my computer and have lost the address to the xt6 site, i hope someone here would post a link to them, also thanks for all the good work all of you put in. thanks

Hi, I can tell you for sure, the clutch disc rust stuck to the flywheel, I have a truck that does this alot from sitting and no use. all the water you went through, it was warm, rust stuck it, if you crank it in gear it moves right, push the clutch pedal it still goes, the disc is stuck to the flywheel. On my truck the clutch is accessable from a lower cover, I remove it, prop the clutch pedal down, and use a cake frosting spreader to slip between the disc and flywheel, never fails. Only you can't do that on a subaru, so if it happens again you maght try cranking the car in gear, get going, and then hit the brakes to pop it loose( with the clutch pedal depressed of course) so it can pop loose. If that don't work you might have to pull the engine or trans to allow access to it. Stay out of deep water or drive long enough to dry it out. Best luck

Hi, I want to ask about doing a 5 bolt swap on my gl-10, it is 4x4 with disc rear, do I just take the big nut off and put on the 5 bolt flanges, or is it a little more involved? I know some of you have done this and know what is needed, Thanks for any help.

Hi, I am interested to do a 5 lug swap on my gl-10, it is a 4x4 with disc brakes. Can I just take the big nut off and put the 5-bolt hub flanges on, or is it more involved than that? I know some of you have done this and know the drill. I want to know what is involved before I start so maybe I won't have surprises and delays once started. Thanks all

Hi, Thanks for the response, if the stock ones are good to 6K then I should be good on that. thanks again for your help

Hi, I wanted to get some feedback on valve springs for the ea-82t, has anyone had experience with improvements to stock springs? I assume the stock ones are good to about 5K, but are there any springs that work a bit better to about 62-65 hundred. Also I saw a post about 88-89 cams saying that the mpfi-na cams had a better grind than the earlier na or the turbo ones, anything on that? Thanks for any help and information.

Hi, Do you guys know what happened to the xt6.net site, hoping it is still around but need to ask if anyone knows the address now, or what is going on with it?? Thanks !

Hi, Thanks for those , I also had a note on it to look at the vaccum port for the booster, and it is on the right. The wires exit on the left side of the throttle body but basically in the middle, this is an XT motor I think due to the pulley type for the ribbed belts, and my other XT has rear exit harness. Also this one does have an egr valve. I noticed the O2 sensor is mounted in the crossover pipe just under the flange about 2 inches on the right side facing rearward, All the turbo ones I had seen were mounted in the downpipe above the cat section facing to center of vehicle. And this motor has a 2 wire Knock sensor that is white, all the ones I had seen were 1 wire and are green. There is another ??, can I use the jdm injectors?? I will switch out all the sensors and the harness and piping as I've noticed differences there to. Has anyone had experience using japanese injectors, would they be the same as US ones, these are a blue color cap? Thanks for your help

Hi, I just got a replacement ea82T, supposed to be jdm, how can I tell if it is , or just a domestic JY pullout?? It looks more like 80k + than 40K,and the ac comp is locked up the fan clutch was locked up, turbo spins but has a little play. it has the ribbed belt pulleys like XT. only thing I notice different is the 02 sensor is in the crossover pipe just before the turbo, all the ones I have seen are in the down pipe, also this has injectors that are blue and a standard top feed intake. any way to tell which is what for sure?? Thanks

Hi, I just got a ea82t engine from a supplier that is supposed to be a jdm engine, How would you be able to tell the difference? One thing different on this is the O2sensor is in the crossover pipe, not in the down pipe above the cat like most I've seen. this would be before the turbo not after, did some early or later than 88 models have this arrangement? also it has injectors that are blue, otherwise it looks just like all of them. Oh yes, this has the two belts that are ribbed like XT , but is not a spyder intake. any other way to identify one? Thanks

Hi, This is a project I have been intending to do for a while , I did measure some parts for it, the knuckle will fit the ball joint and it appears to be the same in height and the arm for the tie rod is the same. But the ea82 strut diameter the part that clamps, is bigger than an ea81 by about 100 thousandths of an inch. So I am going to disagree with matty B that it all fits. They sure look the same but definately are not.If you use the EA-82 strut though and the Ea-81 tops, but springs are the one issue that is in question. I think either will fit but ride height is unsure, and I cant remember the spring rate difference right now. This is further confused by the dimention of the struts from where it clamps and the spring seat on it. I am checkin those next, just looking for time to do it, I have all the stuff. My 84 wagon should stop well with EA-82 discs all round. Bquote=mikeshoup]What's the chance of fitting EA82 front brakes on an EA81? I would think changing the knuckle and then using all the brake stuff from the EA82 would work. Is the strut mount different? If so, then the EA82 strut with EA81 top mounts? And just how much bigger is the EA82 discs than the EA81 discs? I know they're bigger, but just how much?

Well, OK, I thank you for the input I did have the throttle open, the battery up checked the belts for position. I came to the same conclusion, bad guage or bad engine, I'll check with another guage first, I knew that wasn't right. Thanks again

Hi All, I have a 87 gl-10 with the turbo motor , it lost water and got pretty hot,enough to stop running, vapor lock i think. it did restart after cooling and sounded ok. compression test says around 50psi all cyl. and equal. that seems low to me even for turbo motor, is that near what to expect or what has been your experience on this . I found no sign of water in the motor, all had leaked from the tiny hose from block to water outlet. Anyone know for sure what the pressure should be just cranking for compression test? Happy holidays

Hi, the belts are different but the acces. will work if you use the xt crank pulley , and use the xt belts. the power steering hoses (xt has offset reservoir)and a/c hoses may be different also but should work if you use all the xt stuff. good luck on it.

I noticed also that the top of the little chamber that has the check valve must be sealed at the top in order to force the fuel through the squiter orifice, if it is not sealed the fuel just goes over and you get no squirt. The bowl to carb top gasket is the cover for it and I've seen several be the problem on accelerator pump not working .

Hi, Glad someone else posted on this problem,(not glad you have them) I have the same on my 4x4auto xt6. I have done ALL the stuff recommended here, 3 different tcm were tried , one was my 2wd one that works perfectly, nada. Had the pan off, changed the fluid two different times, had the valve body off twice and checked all the valves for sticking, had ALL the solonoids off and checked electrically and for function on the bench, and flushed cleaned them both times with spray cleaner, nada. The solonoid pack is available only in aftermarket parts. I am still some what suspicous of the solonoids. My problem is that My car was like this when I got it so I had no prior information about how the symptoms developed , suddenly or little at a time. If you get any real info that helps, please help me out too. PM me!! I want to ask you a question , from a stopped position, put your shifter in 1st position (2), does the car act like its in two gears at once or like something is locked up, and will only move forward with moderate throttle??? My car does that as well as the symptoms you described. You are the only one I've seen with these same problems.

Hi, It runs on 12 v, its ok to do it as long as you unplug it from the harness and no chance to have voltage into the system from the pump area. These will run forward and backward , be sure .

Hi, That is the code, but the first digit is not used . A (knowledgable)locksmith can make a key from your code . The code is not the cut sequence , its the code to the cut sequence, that is where the (Knowledge part) comes in. Pm me if you need more info

I'm pretty sure it is a trans mount for an automatic 2WD, not sure if ea81 or ea82.

Take a look if the seal was pressed into its location a bit too deep, there is a drain back in the seal mounting location at the bottom, if the seal is pressed in too far it can block the drain back.

Take a look at the little switch that is activated by the brake pedal , its up at the top in the area near the shaft that the pedal is mounted on( brake and clutch pedal box assembly). may be shorted out, or out of adjustment .

If you put the flywheel at the proper marks, then turn the cam (driver side)to the proper up position , it will be right, no matter where it was before that, as in broken belt position. Just don't move the distributor, the belt marks are just for the cams.

I was just wondering if anyone has ever tried to fit 2.2 sohc 4valve heads on a 1.8 EA82 motor? I know there are intake and exhaust to deal with but will they bolt on and would the water and oil passages line up? I was just thinking maybe.

The early ones had a O2 connection that looks like a spark plug connector sort of, if that part is the same installing it is easy, unscrew the old ,screw in the new, plug the wire on the body harness wire. OH yea make sure the wire is'nt going to rub on the cv shaft.

If you look where the large metal pipe leads you can see it is exhaust pipe (noise)