ruparts

bump ,, hoping someone can recognize this thing, thanks

hi, my guess is the turbo might be leaking oil into the exhaust (bad internal seals) and is being burned in the downpipe cat, or as mentioned a pcv issue could suck oil into the intake air, and that would then be burned, but the basic engine is not likely to just go bad from storage, unless it had a water or headgasket problem and water leaked into cylinders and rusted some rings or something.

hi, i cut one open one time just to see inside layout, the pipes you refer to wind around in the perimeter so no way to pour the fuel out, the filler opening has a flapper valve, , the rusted off ones may have rusted off inside as well, which could let fuel escape when tilted. the inside fuel pickup is in the middle but the pipe does not go from front to middle, it makes a twisted around in there and ends up in the middle with a strainer on it. the best option is to replace the tank with a good one, or new one if you can. they come in some different setup in the US, by 92 all were fuel inject so that did away with the early version small outlet pipe carburetor version with no return pipe,, but the vents and all that. ours have 3 little pipes on the side and a bigger one that is with the filler pipe. in front, it's a in and an out and a little vent one that routes along the outside of tank to the side, or rear , can't remember now. trying to coat it inside is likely to clog the pickup sock, and all the venting, , replacement is best option, my opinion.

hi, i have this and don't know what it is, it has a 6 wire plug with 5 wires in it,, they are with (as a part of ) the wire bundle that plugs into the ecm, the ecm has been marked 1981 manual trans, 46082 7002 and A16-000 010 > thats the ecm. but what is the little box? ?

Hi, you should have on hand, the bushings that mount it to the crossmember, ( source is dealer or "maybe" other),,, the o rings that fit on the ends of the P/S connecting hoses where they screw into the steering rack. you will have to disconnect the ones that go across and up to the pump, so the o rings for all 4 fittings. there are 2 different sizes but i don't know them off hand, they are metric dimentions. if your rack has new inner and outer tie rods then you won't need to deal with that. if you have to take off your old ones, slide the boots back, the inner tie rod is like a big nut, there is a washer that is peened into notches to lock it in plase, hammer & punch to get that locking clear then the big nut unscrews from the rack shaft. when installing be careful to don't scar the rack shaft, that wiould damage the end seals and cause the new rack to leak. you will need a puller or small pickle tool to get the outer tie rod ends free from the steering knuckle after you take the nut off, it's a tapered fit and sometimes can be quite difficult, my advice is to do it first then to proceed to the under car stuff.

hi, i am not certain they are just like the earlier loyale cars, but i think probably. if that is the case the little plastic inserts that the screws go into, are actually mounted in the plastic bumper cover. i had to take the bumper off and that gives access to the screw holders, which are not like normal snap in's , subaru specific parts here, anyway a pain for sure but that's where i think you need to look for the access to replace them.

hi, i made a mistake in what i read on your original post,, all the references i made were about ea-82 parts, because my brain saw 82 and registered ea-82, not 82 gl, i am sorry, my bad... but what i tried to say, and does apply here also, is that if you want it to sit lower, you should use 2wd struts not 4x4 struts, and the xt6 springs are a stiffer rate but not a whopping amount.

hi, the xt6 springs have a little stiffer rate, but i don't think you will see any drop. ea82 front struts are built in a few different heights, original xt4 fronts will definately lower it some, the standard 2wd is middle of the road, and 4x4 wagon is the tallest. these differences are from where the strut's bottom spring perch is in relation to it's stop flange, where it sits against the knuckle. factory struts are about 1" difference in each version in this portion of the strut body.. aftermarket struts are somewhat universal, so the actual dimentions will vary some,, not sure how much, but 2wd sedan might be the shortest aftermarket ones available. on xt-4 , the aftermarket seems to be selling same number as 2wd sedan so idk. i have personally measured original takeoffs, and there are at least 3 basic heights they used. so if you want to lower it some use the xt-4 2wd front struts and that's as low as the aftermarket makes.

hi, the inner tie rod is threaded to the rack shaft, there is a locking washer that is peened into notches that act as locks so it can't unscrew, use a punch and knock those clear of the notches and then the big inner joint will unscrew,, its not left thread , regular thread. you are supposed to hold backup on the shaft since all the turning force will be on the steering pinion if you don't, but it takes a special thin wrench to fit in the space that is meant for that.. the struts probably need to use an impact, it seems to work better than hand tools for getting that big nut off, the vice grips should be able to hold the strut shaft if using an impact gun on the nut. they actually have a flat or hex or something on top of the shaft to hold it but then you need the special tool to turn the nut. note: the upper spring cup has to be oriented in the proper direction, the hole is NOT in the middle, it's marked "out" on top of it, ( you might need to clean it some to find the marking) this has to match the offset of the bottom spring cup, which is offset noticably to the outside. the top of the strut shaft has a flat side that matches with the upper spring cup flat side hole, but the strut shaft can turn to get the "out" alignment correct. all this is so the spring is not misaligned, since the spring is not centered on the strut, like the earlier version ea81 cars were.

hi, pm sent where are you located, would like to have one and turbo is good in higher elevations, moving this yr.

hi, thanks , i hear you there, i tore one up just to see how it works inside, internally the selector switch only has off or on,, off is off,, ALL other positions are on, i know the buttons have a/c, defrost, bla bla but they are all on a single buss bar inside.. i guess the contact could be intermittant (the contact on the one i dissambled was dirty and old grease, so contact could be compromised with temp or vibration) that said you may be correct, and onto the underlying intermittant part of this. now the more i think on it , the more it makes sense. that is 1 place all the different modes have in common with the blower fan relay signal. and my fan has had trouble in any mode. i have too many other things to cover right now but when i get time to go back to this,, i'm going to find out if this is the grimlin in the fan. it's not so easy to change that switch "unit", and there are no old subys in my area salvage yards to find now. they seemed maybe impossible to dissamble / service, i had to break it, and very $$$ new. i may have a couple still so someday when time is availableto do some trial & error with it again. thanks.

hi, thanks for that information, i had not thought to concider they might just disengage after working perfectly for hours over multiple days. anyway that thing about temp did seem to be a factor, on cold mornings sometimes the blower fan would not come on,, leav everything on and usually about the time i'd get to work suddenly it would come on. using the fan on a/c is the same if it came on it usually would stay on, but sometimes it would just turn off after running for an hour or more. the thing is , i got the 4 of them down and would try 4-5 maybe 6 other ones and none of them would kick it back on either, but test ok. i traced the wiring diagram in the fsm,, both the hitachi and the matsushuta (spelling) they are wired different within the system but the end is , the blower fan signal is tied in with some of the pressure switches in the a/c, and the temp micro switch on the heater case by the gas pedal area & tunnel, there is a diode inline on one of them. with blower on, if i trip that micro switch , it kills the fan,,, nothing will restart it till you cycle the ignition switch off then back on and it then allows the fan to come on again?? i know it sounds crazy, but in the fsm it mentions the need to reset something by doing that with the ignition switch. i think it was called a timer or time delay,, anyway i think it's built into the a/c amplifier module, which are different from each other , harnesses and all, on each of the 2 systems. anyway after many hours and much frustration, i just gave up and went to a toggle switch that closes the relay, BTW "same relay that had been in there all along", and has not turned off, not once , nor failed to come on, not once, so i firmly believe there is something else causing the trouble but i don't have the electrical background to fully understand the systems wiring interconnections and overrides completely.. i had another turbo 4dr f/t 5mt that had the exact same trouble, so it is a common issue on them but i still say it is a grimlin in there besides a old relay, which may well be so on some of them. but other relays (numerous different ones) has had no effect on my rx at all so i did what i could to get a fan that worked reliably and it has so far,, same old relay it always had. i made sure of that because i never thought it was the problem from the start, and i wanted to continue the experiment for later reference. thanks again, someday maybe somebody will finally figure out where this sneaky grimlin hides.

hi, you might check if the vac unit on the distributor is good, they seem to all go bad, ignition timing can be some of it, a couple degrees more is ok, if it doesn't ping. i had this lag on my 84 till i replaced that vac unit, actually we can't find them , a rebuilt dist is what most of us have to do to get one. the reason is the vac unit pulls the timing to advance some at idle and in non load conditions , this helps at the initial hit of the throttle, then as manifold press drops it retards some so not to spark knock.

hi, i've had trouble with the fan in my rx also,, i have not found why it will randomly just go off , but it is not the relay, it seems to be the signal thet closes the relay. i've been unable to figure it out but i did wire a switch to close the relay and it seems to work fine just needed to power it from a switched source instead of the always hot i used,,, next time i can do better. it would work then while driving just turn off, some times woiuld not run in mornings,, later came on mysteriously, but the relay itself was not my trouble, yours might be but just saying..

hi, if you read my reply to the other post you made about the car i said it's the front differential unit, i still say that.

hi, first thing i suspect is the signal from the coolent temp sensor (cts) sometimes the sensor is bad , sometimes it's just the connection has got corroded and that gives a false, or no signal at all. this sensor is the main thing that tells the FI system the engine temp so it can send the proper fuel mixture (controls the signal to the injector). go over all the hoses and air intake boot looking for anything cracked or loose that can cause vacuum leaks, there are 2 little solinoids mounted on the intake manifold that have small hoses to them, the nipple connections are known to break off very often and that can be a vac leak. they usually look connected but may be actually broken off, check closely . sometimes a coil can not function when hot, also that trasnsister that is mounted to the coil bracket might give trouble when hot. that gives you at least a couple of places to check.

hi, welcome in, i really like these. as for the belts, the job and process is done escentially the same,, same flywheel marks, same cam alignment straight up -straight down, all that is similar. the cam pulleys are real steel not stamped , the belts are a bit wider, the tensioners are similar but not alike the ea82. the one main difference is the left side tensioner setup, it is a piviot mounted roller and there is a plunger that pushes on it to acheve tension. it is called the hydrolic tensioner, in fact it has no hydrolic function at all, it is a wound spring on a threaded plunger inside, if the belt sees slack, the spring unwinds the plunger which pushes on the tension pully piviot. the hard part is that you have to wind up the tensioner and keep it wound while you install it, there is a tool and several trick methods to acheve this. then after all is in place ,, release the tensioner and its automatic. only thing is to make sure all the parts move freely, the piviot needs to be checked , and lubed, and all the pulley bearings good, same as you would an ea-82. double check the alignment by doing a rotation and recheck it all , and done.

hi, since you might be in the market for a new, or another alternator,, you might consider the 90 amp nissan unit many of us have done to our vehicles. the alt is a direct bolt on ,, just need to do a pulley switch and an adapter for the 2 wire connector, and 90 amps on tap. i used the oem nissan connector on the alt and made an adapter with a female connector on the other end that accepts the oem subaru alt connector,, nothing gets cut and can always go back. but i like the extra power, especially nice with the lights going and the heater and wipers , even at idle it all stays up and running, i say "ditch the dim"!

Guys,,, the car was an 85 or 86 ,,, there is no igniter involved .

hi, you did not say if this car is an auto trans or manual trans. i had a friend had a 86 gl-10 with auto trans FWD that the front diff gradually went out on it , he did not know you have to check the diff unit with 90 wt gear oil and it leaked out and the ring/ pinion finally would lock up like that , put in reverse and it would go backward ok. needless to say we had to put in another trans from the salvage yard,, that was back when you could find one in a salvage yard. you may have a different problem, but, if it's an auto , you might want to drain the 90 wt diff oil to look for metal particals, not the pan with auto trans fluid. just wanted to tell this story since the symptoms you mentioned are just like his were. with no oil in it the diff bearings totally gallded / locked and actually wore the case away inside where the bearings mount inside it, this caused enough slack that it would lock the gearset when trying to go forward, it would back up ok,, the ring and pinion set. were also ruined.

hi, just asking, but are you sure it is the switch, there is a resistor thing that controls the speeds. it is mounted in the case near the blower motor, has 2 wires and is just a small box like appearance, black plastic.

hi, very unlikely it's a mpfi system, i had asked if it was perhaps a spfi system,, their throttle body does look sort of like a carburetor. if it has a big kidney shaped metal air filter box with 3 wing nuts on it, mounted on top of the carb then it's carburetor, if it has a rectangular shaped rubber thing with a big rubber air intake hose going over to an air filter box on the inner fender, that would be a FI system. as for that 3 hose filter thing i believe that's the other one refered to. the FI systems have a filter there but it's metal since it sees 50 or so psi and they are only in and out, 2 connections. you should see voltage at the pump while someone is cranking it over, you might disconnect it from the harness and run 12v direct and see what amount it produces into a jug or gas can. also can check the under dash fuses and the fusable links , they are in a black box by the overflow tank for the radiator.

hi, i have not bought one, i am sure it should have keys, and i would think the bearings also,, the bearings in your old housing could be used in a replacement, they are the upper portion steering shaft bearings, not anything to do with the lock and switch / tumblers barrel. i 've not seen a column that those bearings were worn out, or where they run worn out, it's always the key tumblers & barrel, and where it turns inside the housing takes wear also.

hi, you cannot get into the tank, if you remove the fuel guage sender, its on the top right rear of the tank under a metal panel inside the car,, you can look inside using a light or probe scope.. i have seen tanks that are literally caked with rust and crud, but if the car has been in use, mostly they are in ok condition. the long time sitting ones are the suspisious ones.. i only mentioned the sock since it "can be" a source of obstruction to fuel flow,, i'd elimainate the other stuff first. i think there are 2 filters, 1 at the pump and another 1 under the hood. not sure but the carb may have one in it, maybe some guys that have ea82 carbs can say. i am more familiar with the mpfi system fuel inject. you're sure it's carb and not the spfi injection system? that would have some sensors that might cause your problem. and last if the pass side timing belt broke or slipped some it can almost start but not run,, same for the driver side but that side also runs the ignition distributor so if it slipped a couple of teeth it might cause these symptoms, do you have any history on the car to help diagnosis?

hi, i was thinking there is another filter in the engine compartment, like up near the brake cylinder area, if you can check on that one too. the pumps can go bad, the pick-up sock inside the tank can get clogged up, don't expect the fuel filter to be completely full, they are never full even if the car is running great has been my experience.