ruparts

hi, you didn't say how much you ran the motor, or how you got it started in the first place. if you did not drain the old gas out of the tank and put in fresh gas to run it, it might have caused some of the valves to stick, old gas can do that. if it ran ok till you turned it off, that might be what happened, it will cause compression loss if it is exhaust valves or blow compression up through the carburetor if it's intake valves. if you got it running from a fresh gas source then that is not so much an issue. first thing to do is run a compression test to see if it has compression,, , yes, then proceed to see if it is getting spark at the plugs, if yes, then go to fuel delivery, some others here can help with that the pump does not run just by turning the ignition switch to "on" position. if you "do not have compression" , then the heads and possibly pistons need inspected, basically engine dismantle to determine what is wrong. i see from the pic the distributor is out of it , no matter, a compression test will still be a valid test. basically you need to have compression, spark, and fuel delivery, it will run. once it's running you need to determine if the head gaskets are sealing, if not,, it lets compression into cooling system or water into the oil ,, that is somewhat common thing and pretty easy fix, but still a heads removal job. do some testing then post again, folks will help out.

hi, i have a stack of them, 10 + shipping , i think it will fit in one of the medium postal flat rate boxes but haven't checked that for sure. i can test a couple and send a good smooth one, you might have to splice your connector on since there are different connectors in various years but the fans are alike.

hi, i know the piece on the coil bracket is necessary, and the bracket must be grounded , but i can't say about the other wires and condenser.

hi, i don't know where to send you for the part, if i had to do this i'd buy a new one from the dealer,, yeah it costs a lot but it's new, and no more trouble. i went on ebay and looked for that, i did see 1 new factory assembly from a place called svauto , it has a pic if the switch, but close inspection of the pic,, i see no bearings in the big bore, there are bearings in there, i see no key, the ad does not mention a key, so i'm not sure if that is a complete assembly& key, or if the bearings are included, but not shown, or what. you might send them a question and ask if the bearings and key are included,, it's 65 dollars cheaper than the online dealers. likely no warranty from the ebay guy. these switch assembly has 2 sets of bearings, an upper small one, and a lower large one, they are caged roller type. the big hole in that ebay switch is where the big one goes. anyway #783121210 for tilt and 4wd is what my 84 parts book shows , it also has that ebay 783121260 number, but my book says that is for tilt except 4wd, not sure what is up with that, pretty sure that either can work. i looked up both online, the 260 number is 15-20 bucks cheaper than the 210 number on the online subaru places. but from them the 783121210 is around 165-185 dollars. those key & lock assy's on ebay, there are a bunch of them, (not sure which ones fit yours) are just the tumbler barrel, that whole thing turns inside the housing, but the wear comes on the outside of that part, and inside the housing where it turns. i've dissembled several of them and greased / put back,, works a while but when it's worn, it's worn. used ones are 25-30 years old now, a new one is recommended, especially if you are keeping the car.

hi, there might be someone who knows but i was unable to find just the vac unit for my 84ea81, finally gave up and bought a rebuilt, that was about 4 years ago.

Hi, i can't say unquestionably about the cable length , but i do know FOR SURE that US spec ea82 vehicles have two different forks,, 1 is 4x4 and the other is fwd , they are different from each other, not just a number change,, the ea 81 series had only 1 fork for both.

hi, it sure could be, the iac valve on the spfi motors have a known history of sticking and being problematic. i am talking about the valve bolted to the front of the throttle body, it can be taken off and cleaned to free up the spring loaded valve plunger which is what controls the air flow through it. they get a buildup of crud like the stuff in a pcv , same air system source. anyway usually they will respond to a good cleanup. another thing is thermostats,, if it pops open with a sudden surge of hot water going out to radiator and cold water coming into engine, this will cause a fast change in the cts and influence the iac which may not respond that quickly. point here is the factory thermostats are a far superior unit to the aftermarket ones and do a slow open so the motor does not see a wide temp variation (shock) suddenly, the xt6 unit actually has a dual opening valve which lets about 1/4 the flow through at a lower temp till it's up to running temp, then opens the main valve for full flow. the fsm says this is so the motor isn't shocked by an inflow of cold water into a warm engine,, they say this shock can lead to head gaskets failure due to the expansion and contraction from a wide temp variation with other thermostats. i use that unit in my rx turbo and i am sold on it. # 21200 aa 080 this number might have been supersceeded by now but this from an 88 parts book.

hi, you didn't say if you have a high idle on your cold start, then the idle starts to decrease , then hunt , then die. if you have no high idle on cold start as you said 2 min i'd say the iac may be suspect, but , to me the symptom you described still sounds like cts. if it doesn't send a proper cold signal to the ecm, the iac won't get the proper signal to know what it needs to do. the cts sends a variable signal depending on temp it sees, they can be partially non functional, but the iac on spfi are known to stick and therefore not accurately meter the air it passes. they can be taken off and cleaned. you might try that and if no results try and test your cts at different temps for readings according to fsm specs.

hi, use a magic marker and put a line on the column shaft and onto the inside of the wheel flange ( under where the nut is) after you take the nut off, then you can see to put it back in the same place it is, the shaft has splines on it and the wheel also, so it can't slip, and you can tell by the mark you make which spline matches up. i use a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket, and tighten to pretty tight, not all i can do, just good and tight, never had a problem. the ea81 wheels will just slip off the shaft, the ea82 cars you have to use a puller to get them off.

hi, the inner tumbler barrel mounts inside the housing where it turns and wears both itself, and the housing too. NO need to have the ign key in any particular pisition to work on it or remove the assembly,, just not in "off position", but you DO HAVE TO get the column locking mechanism to release first, or the lock housing cannot be removed, once the column lock is unlocked, then the ign lock housing can be removed from the column. if you turn the key back off it can relock the column, so do not. my advice is to unplug the electrical portion , it has a plug connector about 10 inches from the switch,, you would have to anyway to remove it,, i also advise to disconnect the battery as a safety measure just in case. once you get the covers off it will be easier to visualize what is to be done,, the 4 bolts (10mm head) are difficult , you can disconnect the spring cables to allow better access, and tilt up or down to help,, the steering wheel has to come off, and the turn signal / hazzard switch also, it has 2 little screws in the bottom which hold it to the bottom half of the cover. take all the covers / switches off first,, then get the column unlocked , then the wheel, then the bolts. after those are off the lock housing can slide up and off the column shaft.

hi, you should buy a new complete lock assembly, the inner barrel with the key is worn, and the inside of the assembly it turns in is also worn , you may find a used one that works but it will be temporary. it is held in place by 4 bolts on the downward side of the tilt section of your column, they are kind of difficult but can be done. you have to remove the steering wheel, the plastic covers, the turn switch and it slides up over the steering shaft and off, there are bearings inside it to center the steering shaft so "make mental note" how it all goes. the electrical part switch is attached with 2 tiny screws it is easy to take off and put on, but will not do anything for your key problem. if your steering column is in the locked position, you have a big extra problem because it will not allow the ignition lock assembly to slide off, even after you get the bolts out. if this is your situation i kindly submit that you need a dremmel tool with a cutting wheel and carefully cut the lock housing apart until you can get the column release to let go,, a real pain but these are some of the most difficult locks i've ever seen. IF you can get the key to turn on once again, it will release the column lock and you can avoid the major headache,, be sure to leave it on, and disconnect the battery for the remainder of the project. Toonga: i think you are thinking of the type lock that has the headless bolts and is 2-piece housing,, this is not like that. the US 86 brat has a tilt wheel style column and the lock assembly is 1-piece and has to slide up and off the steering shaft.

hi, can't say positive but likely for an auto shifter setup, they had a bunch of wires from the shifter , but i thought it came up from beside the tunnel . or it could be for power window switch which was mounted near the radio set.

hi, my only comment is that it's better to use all the 3.9 diff gears and case, put the 3.9 ring gear on the posi carrier in the same case the 3.9 came in. this is because the pinion depth is already set for that gear set and diff case, and the only setting you would need to do is the backlash, just adjust till clearance is right. switching the gears into the other case you would need to reset the pinion depth, if not done correctly will be trouble for sure.

hi, the answer is not so easy, as that,, xt , maybe xt6, and the other sedans,wags, etc share the same brackets in each model year more or less. the height adjust seats have a different outside bracket but bolt to the car the same as the non height adjust,, its just the bracket is not removable from the seat. but they changed the brackets a couple of times through the years of the series. the 85-86, some 87, were simple, 4 bolts and all in the floor, seatbelts had a separate attach point. then some brilliant xxxx , changed the inner rear of the front seat to bolt to the tunnel, and the belt is attached to the bracket . xt/xt6 had a slip through for the belt went to an elaborate coiler at the back of the console. the front outer side brackets i think are the same at least through 88, except the ones with the height adjustment lever are made different, but do attach to the car in the same location, so bacically it is year that determines, and type of seats, but the bolt location on the car is same, early years all to floor , later, inner rear track to tunnel. on ea81, i think are pretty much all alike but not 100% sure, and not sure if the brackets fit the ea82 series floor or not,, and vice/versa. there are others here that have more experience with this having swapped in seats and so on.

hi, you probably already know about it but, on the final turn screwing the pistons back into the caliper you have to leave the piston in just the proper position to accomodate that little nub on the backside of the brake pad, otherwise the pad will not sit flat against the piston and can wobble somewhat. check all the pad retainers clips and spring, to be sure they have not jumpped out of position.

hi, yes the ea81 version, no ea82 type. they need repainted but that is not unusual. pm me , how many, what you have in mind, i also have several styles of alloy wheels also. all 13", thanks.

hi, here is a couple of pics of what i was thinking, just to give an idea of the principal. there are 2jaw pullers as well, might be easier to get hooked up, and i still think if you have someone hold the suspension arm and pull outward while you use a "heavy" hammer on the end of that stub and it should slip out. caution, do not bend the flange where the backing plate bolts on, too much force with a puller could do that so watch it.

hi, if you go back and read the posts myself and another guy made,, we said, you can get the stub out of the hub with the axle still attached.. we are only saying that since you are having a difficult time getting it out that having the axle disconnected would be a benefit since you could work with it on a bench or work table. the stub axle will press out of the bearings just like in that link you posted, his apparently just slipped out yours must be pretty tight. but it is the same as that link you last posted. the pin is all that holds that axle to the stub,, except the rust as mentioned, you can leave it attached or try and get it off ,, whatever, but the point is there is not any retainer or clip or anythingholding the stub in,,, it's just a tight fit in the bearings. that guy did a great job on that step by step picture post, it is very complete and is 100% correct,, the only difference is your stub didn't just slip out like his did, you are needing more force to make that happen,, how you apply that force is what i've been refering to. #1 aheavy hammer, but someone needs to hold the suspension arm or it won't do anything maybe ruin your cv's,, #2 use a puller to press it through. the part about taking the cv and axle off is just to have better access to the suspension arm/hub.

hi, i wanted to post a pic for you , this is what the shaft looks like so you can see it. no c clip or retainer, just a press fit in the inner bearing races.

hi, i feel your pain, been there, but the spline shaft that is through the hub and bearings is a fairly tight fit, but it can and does come out. the axle & cv joints are a different issue all together, having the axle out of the way would have helped but you apparently have one of those "special' ones we encounter ocassionally. you can actually do the bearing with the axle still attached to the diff and to the hub shaft,, but you DO have to get the shaft out of the hub. you might be able to borrow / or rent a 3jaw type puller and push it through, it comes out of the inner side of that trailing arm/ hub,, its tight and it has to be , its like a press fit similar to the fronr axle in its hub. i don't think you will be able to hammer on the arm because all the force will be trying to break your cv joints. if you do get the cv & axle shaft off of the rear diff, then you have the option of hammering on the outer end of the shaft while holding the arm/hub steady. if you have a friend who can hold the arm/hub assy and pull while you hammer the outer end it might come free. but i think a puller, 2 or 3 jaw whichever you can get to clamp on the hub and press the shaft through is the best approach. the rust i refered to is what's holding the cv from coming off the spline shaft, that is a separate problem from getting the shaft out of the hub, the axle is just mostly in the way and making it difficult to have good access to the hub. if you had that off you could stand the hub on end and drive the shaft out with a big hammer.

hi, yes, if that's all you did then go ahead and install the belts, you can put them both on, with the position you now have, 1 up, 1 down, really doesn't matter which is which just so you have them 1-straight up and 1-straight down. after the tensioners are set , go ahead and turn the crank 2 - 360 degree turns stopping to check cam alignment each time the crank is back to the marks,, this is just a "making sure" type of check , but is better to do it first than have to go back after you get it back together. if you never moved the distributor it should be close enough to run and might be right on, correct ignition timing is something to check once you have it running again and all the hoses and stuff hooked up.

hi, first , do you have the flywheel positioned with the 3 III marks centered on the bellhousing pointer,, this is key. leave the cams where they are it is correct to have them opposite, but they have to be exactly straight up/ down, you can use the mating surface of the case to gage by. the crank and pistons are in the same position each time the marks on the flywheel line up so it does not matter if you do the belts in reverse,,, unless you have moved the distributor, or removed the driver side cam case.. if you did , then your ignition timing is going to be off. but if you install the belts with the cams in this position and the flywheel marks correct on the pointer, you will be ok as far as the T-belts go. once you get the belts on and the tensioners set ,, rotate the crank to align the III marks to double check the cam alignment, it is easy to miss it first time and important to double check both sides.

hi, the roll pin is all that is involved to keep the joint on the shaft,,,, except the rust, and that can be a nightmare. i have actually removed the shaft from the hub with the axle still on it, you might want to take the inner pin out and slip the inner cv off the diff stub but at least it can be done. i have a couple of them lying about in this condition , just gave up after pounding on them numerous times soaking and pounding, still stuck... heat with a tourch maybe help but that much heat would probably melt the joint boot. from your pics you are doing what you can, i think remove the inner pin and cv joint from the diff and then at least you can work with it on the bench. if you get this off use anti-seize on the splines going back. pretty sure you can leave it attached and the shaft will press ( or knock) through the hub bearings to the inner side and then you can do the bearing and seal, then put the shaft back in, leaving the axle attached all the while.

hi, should be a smaller wire 12ga to the starter that is a slip on terminal, is that one plugged on, there is big positive , big neg and this third one has a 1/4' spade terminal

hi, these master switch hubs do have a known history of trouble but , the first thing is to determine if the lock is on ,,, the switch has a lock button, it can lock the windows from working. to do any inspection of it beond this requires to remove the door panel, this requires to take off the inside door pull handle, the door opener handle trim, the triangle piece up near the door mirror area, then the panel is held by snap in's all around that pry out and the door cover can be lifted to see under or off for full access. note the switch is actually mounted to the door cover so be sure to unplug if you want to remove the panel. there is a plastic moisture barrier cover also. if the switch is plugged in , suggest to unplug and inspect for corrosion and clean contacts of the terminals and plug it back to the harness. if it still has no function , i think to try one from a car that is known to work or if that is no option you might have to buy a new one , these are painfully hi from subaru. also it is not so likely that all function is lost at once, suggesting something else is the problem. to have the heater core replaced should not have required to do anything relating to the door switches themselves but there are many plug in connectors that would have been disconnected to do it, and perhaps something is not making good connection somewhere other than the door , i think that door harness is connected to the rest of the system behind the kick panel near the hood pull handle a lot of connections in there and might have been disconnected to get the dash out for that core replacement.