ruparts

hi, since you have the plugs out, put a socket /W ratchet ( 21-22 mm i think) on the crankshaft pulley center bolt and turn it by hand, at least see if it will turn, this will determine if the motor is truly locked up, or if you now have a starter problem as well as the fuel issue to deal with. if the battery has been hooked up a while since all this, it may be drained , because there is no way yet to tell if electrical problems were caused by the battery backwards episode. it might have toasted something that now causes the battery to draw down , bad diodes in the alternator come to mind after something like this.

hi, i have had this happen on other motors, the gas in the tank can cause this if it is " old", you didn't say how long the car in question had sat but if you did not replace the old gas with fresh, that is my guess as to why the valves stuck after a warm up run . i have had it happen to me, and so has a friend who runs a shop on stuff that sits a year or so. i do not know just what is going on with the gas, but it seems to create a varnish like on the valve stems as it passes through the heads, it's ok while the motor is hot, but once it cools down that stuff hardens up and well, stuck valves. usually, if you can access them and use some chemicals (B-12 type stuff) and a mallet, just thumping them and the spring they will loosen up and run again, but need to run for a while to clear it up with fresh fuel. these subaru have pretty good valve stem seals so it might not work,, the old shield type seals could lift up and spray the stems, then bump them and they begin to loosen up.

my opinion is to use the all metal, brass copper and find the 2 rows of cooling tubes version since you are buying new , not all places have them , but they are minimally more expensive and almost double the cooling capacity of the single row.

it says in the title 90 loyale, and the post, but yes it ought to have been in the older subaru section , give him a little, he is a new guy.

hi, those inserts have tabs that hold them in place in the intake top,, if those are broken or not on it then follow the other advice.

hi, as for the overheat thing, what you describe sounds like the thermostat is not doing right, i also want to say, buy a thermostat from subaru, the aftermarket ones are inferior to original, just not as good, and have a smaller opening for the fluid flow. did you get a 2 row radiator, (and are your fans working) , 1 is the belt driven fan but the electric fan is important too. it can not work because the switch in the radiator is bad, disconnected, or relay not working, or just not plugged up , check everything.. the usual radiator replacement is a 1 row but if all is proper with the motor it should do the job, but a 2 row is really the best one. be sure the radiator is topped up, these cars tend to trap air in the system and not fill completely first time around. as for the starting,, the coolent temp sensor for the fuel injection is usually an issue on them, corroded connection or a bad sensor and connection. also all hoses that connect into the air intake system , need to check for cracks , disconnects, anything that can cause a vacuum leak. the starter click thing may be the starter switch, its built in the starter but rebuilds sometimes don't fix them, if it continues to just click sometimes that's where i'd look.

hi, yes , spfi, the mpfi is only on the turbo motors unless it was a xt, they all have the mpfi i think. there was a mpfi option in 85 for all the body styles if it was a gl-10 or something maybe gl but after 86 all fi was spfi on everything except turbo option engines, they all are mpfi, and xt.

hi, your car is an ea82, we refer to them that way because there is an overlap on year models with engines and body styles.. ea81 refers to the 80-84 body style and have pushrod (ohv) style motors. the overlap comes because the continued with this in the brats, through 87 , and hatchbacks through 89. your COUPE 3dr , has a overhead cam (ohc) motor and has timing belts , those early motors do not. you will see ea82 on the top front of you engine near the oil stick. as for the coolent temp sensor, , yes they are a common problem for these, but many times it's only the connection, not the actual sensor, if you find a lot of corrosion on and in the connector try cleaning it all up first , there is a spec for the sensor but i don't know the cold value to check it . at least it's available, also look close for any loose or split vacuum hoses , and anything hose related going to the intake system. there are 2 little solinoids that are mounted on the intake manifold they are a metal cube with small hoses to them and a 2 wire connector on each,, the little hose nipples break off real easy , and that creates small vacuum leaks in the system. those and or the sensor is likely to help with the problem. the thing on top of the thermostat housing is the idle air control and is sometimes faulty but cracked hoses and air leaks are most often the issue.

hi, i have parted out over a dozen ea81 cars( no brats) all 80-84 , " i never saw even one that did not have a ecu " , this is in dallas, tx and i don't know where they all came from originally. i know a couple were cali cars but most were likely central states if not texas , but they "all " had a ecm box under the column, all carburetor OHV 1.8 motors.

hi, i am not totally sure on 78 but the vehicles around 80 or newer you have to turn the caliper piston like you would a bolt to compress it back into it's bore,, they do not just press back in the bore like most cars with rear emergency brake. if it has the emergency brake on the front caliper it is pretty sure to be the same as the later ones and has to turnto go in,, basically you are threading the piston back on the emergency brake bolt that runs through to the back side of the piston. if you're not so mechanically inclined you might seek out someone that is, and knows about these old subies. also if you have the emergency brake pulled while doing this work, its going to be basically locked up.

hi, you will need the "pedals assembly" from a vehicle like your wagon, can be a wagon, 4 dr sedan, 2dr coupe, hatchback, but same style . there are lots of swaps been done so info is here. best to stay with 84 or later for the pedals assy because the clutch cable mount is better than 82-3 but can use early ones. others will jump in on linkage and mounts needed , some kits are available to do all that.

hi, i'm not a brat guy but i know some about the same yr cars, the signal for the tach comes from one of the wires on the coil i believe, one of the - side , might check if only one is there, should be 2 on that side. i know some of the members can help more but maybe it is bad connector or cut off or left off& laying under the coil area. NICE SCORE BTW!

hi, just look in the chart that Dee2 posted a link to in his post above,, the top section of it shows the length of the various shafts, ( L ) dimention , and their identifying markings in another section. the thickness of shaft and joints is not in there, but they range in length between the boots (FSM measurement points) is 9.53" -- 10.12" -- and 10.43" so there are some variations in length ,, all the 25 spline doj shafts are the shortest ones, and there are some 23 spline ones that have the shortest shafts,,, the other 2 longer lengths are both with 23 spline joints, so you have to go to the markings to determine which actual shaft length version is the one you have. there is a great deal of information and variation contained in this chart so take your time in going over it , , all said there can be almost an inch difference in length of the shaft itself, chart does not say if there is any difference in the portion of shaft within the boot, but since the inner doj"s have some variations, it could mean the shaft length change was made to compensate for a joint difference, and the overall length of the total assembly is still the same for all ?? no one really knows because its just so convoluted and you'd need a pile of ( original) ones to measure all the variations to really find out. and then there is the compressed length and the extended lenght both to concider,, wow. for average cars doing daily use , mostly we have found all them to be ok to use if the splines match the trans stubs, that is on the ea82 series cars , at least the 3at and M/T , 4eat trans i cannot comment there except to say they have 25 spline stubs and so used the shortest shafts originally according to the book.

hi, you might get a range of opinions on the replace it idea, but i'm pretty sure the dash has to be removed to get one out and in, from a guy that has parted out a bunch of these cars including removal of the heater cores,, i would get another car before i would replace one,, but thats just my opinion.

hi, i notice the number shown up by the picture is not the same number they are showing in the description print at the lower portion of that page, so which number is actually being sold? as for fit, yes, it would fit assuming it is the right # for the ea81 series gl (OHV) engine, vehicles, you need to check. the springs and tops will fit also but the ride height might be lower if it is for fwd.

hi, just as a note so all this discussion will not confuse the problem, the car in question is an 85 and will not have that transister on the coil bracket, the 85-86 cars are just a bit different from all the later ones, and the wireing is similar but not the same as the later cars.

hi, the switch i can't say but a good first thing you should concider the 90 amp alternator swap a lot of us are doing, use the late 80's maxima alternator, have to change the pulley, make a connector adaptor or otherwise make the connections, and it's a direct bolt on to 90 amp . lots of write ups about it on this board, do a search, this is a worthwhile upgrade for these cars, and not expensive , if you get a good used alt from a jy, might find someone on here selling one already to go. that dimming if you pull on the wheel might indicate a weak ground is some of the problem, if this is a ea81 style , there is a major ground lead up behind the fuse panel (black wire, ring eyelet, comes directly off the main wiring harness) , that sometimes is not really grounded good, it was a source of much trouble for my 84 wagon till i located and fixed it. it can cause a lot of unusual stuff with the lights and guages,, there are a lot of write ups and posts concerning it in the past, some with pics and a lot of comment.

hi, i have the power mirror, how's 35 delivered to you ? pm me if you want to . thanks, jim

hi, the inside(transmission end) doj will be either 23 spline or 25 spline, the diameter of the spline section also differs, according to which spline count it is. the 23 will not phisically fit on a 25 spline trans ,,, but a 25 doj can be put on a 23 spline trans, , but it definately causes problems!! but when folks don't know, it does happen.. bad juju! the corrosponding transmission stubs will also be 23 or 25 spline and sized to match, it is the turbo version trans and perhaps the later ea82 with the 4speed auto trans that used the 25, most common is the 23 spline and is used in many more of the vehicles. they list different part # for auto or m/t but they seem to interchange without issues as long as the spline count is right. , the outer end is the same on all of them so far as i know. the shafts itself has some different markings but i believe they are all within the range of whats called interchangable,, the fsm has a section as to what the different markings are and what they indicate, basically it is the number of rings, and their location on the shaft, that is shown,, these are raised ridges forged with the shaft originally and easy to see. oem subaru joints are better quality than the aftermarket so it's better to rebuild an original than buy a rebuilt usually,, if it has not been run tooo long without a boot. the complete ea82 shafts do not fit the ea81 vehicles.

hi, you didn't say anything about the timing belts, the driver side belt runs the cam and that turns the distributor , ?? also the dist rotor might have a tiny screw that holds it in place on the shaft, they are notorious for falling out and the rotor can turn on the shaft. the 85 should not have that transistor thing on the coil mounting bracket, that system was 87 on i think but they do cause a lot of this type problem on the cars that have it. your dist should still have the vacuum advance system, unless you have a later yr distributor in there. a later model dist might cause an issue with the ignition since the whole system is set up different than the early 85-86 one. i think there is a under dash fuse that powers the ignition and some other stuff , check them just for sure. i have a early xt turbo , should be the same as your 85 motor, the dist on it has wires that are in some way connected in with the knock sensor on it, that was also changed in 87 when they rerouted the wiring and went to a 1 wire knock sensor, there are some differences in the stuff for 87 on, that are different from 85-86 , make sure you have the right parts on it.

you should have just got a Viper instead, you probably can't get much more out of a 4banger street car than you are claiming to have now.

hi, good job finding what most likely is the problem,, whoever did that valve job may have made errors. seems the only way to cause a valve to be short on the installed height is ,1 an incorrect valve was installed , 2 the keepers not seated on the stem correctly or the wrong ones/ or the retainers mismatched somehow, 3 stem tip ground way too short,, 4 the valve seat was replaced and is too thick, or the original has lifted up from it's place, last is possible the valve is sticking in the guide, bent ? and not fully seated, or a broke spring maybe. in any event it looks like you will need to remove the head/heads again to do a full inspection on the problem,, find out what the installed height spec is for the engine and check each valve for proper height and seating. if all is to spec and the oiling is clear, that tic clack should be gone. hate you have had such a tramatic experience with all this, but i believe you definately on the right path to success now.

hi, silverback ,, hats off to you , excellent posts and pics there! first time i've seen the information actually shown on the board. the only thing i want to add is that you have to take the cam out of the case to clean that passage with the restrictor oriface, any "stuff" will be caught in that short passage between the cam and the restrictor. NICE JOB!

hi, usually due to air in line somewhere causing unequal pressure to either side, but a couple of other things. there is a nub on the back of the piston side pad , on each side of the vehicle, it has to fit inside the recess on the caliper piston, i have seen brakes come apart and the piston was not turned to the correct position and the nub caused the pad to " not lay flat " on the piston,, bad and unequal friction on that pad. the caliper has to be able to move fairly easily on the guide pins , sometimes that is overlooked, , maybe one of the pad retainer clips kicked out of place and is causing the pad to wedge a little. oil, grease, or brake fluid on the pads? did the rotors get turned or were they glazed? rebleed the lines and if it still has an issue you gonna need to go back in and inspect.

hi, i sort of got this wrong, maybe. the car he is wanting to put the motor in has spfi system yes? so if a straight up style intake for the mpfi heads could be fitted with the original spfi TB and all the original wiring & sensors, it might work. as mentioned the 4 injectors would be inert, the original TB and sensors all back to like original, it might work. they did change the TB around 89, they have more wires in the connector,, the main thing here is,, use the original TB and and wiring! adapt the TB to fit the mpfi manifold, in theory i agree it should work. just for information in 85 year model they offered a mpfi engine that was a normally aspirated , non turbo, option for sedans and wagons, after that all the dual port heads came on turbo motors , except the ones on xt's , they did have a NA mpfi with a straight up style TB, and also a turbo mpfi with straight up TB. in late 87 the spyder manifold was introduced on the mpfi motors, pretty sure those were only on xt however. but there are plenty of the early style straight up TB mpfi manifolds around, all of the 85-87 ones could be used to try this.