ruparts

hi, maybe it could fit but as mentioned the entire system is designed to run 4 injectors and it just won't do what you are thinking. ( Hi , i was wrong here, his original car is spfi so the system does not run 4 injectors, for some reason i was not thinking correctly when i posted this originally, corrected 2-4-14)

hi, i have seen several cam case blockages, the little brass port incert is where it usually is, and usually on the pass side,, the main oil passages are big enough to pass most bits but that little restrictor oriface is the bottleneck on the oil passages. as for the oring seals they are only a couple of dollars, the hassle to get them is much worse than the cost but is necessary!

hi, the mpfi is not going to run with a spfi controlled fuel system. the only way to make use of the motor is to swap out the heads& intake,, use your original heads and intake manifold with "all it's original wirring",, basically use all the original stuff except the shortblock( crank/rods/pistons/ engine case). the rib belt pulleys are optional,, but the alternator and a/c compressor and all belt driven pulleys will have to match. also the water pump might be different, there are 2 ,, 1 is 105mm flange height the other is 110mm flange height.. both fit the motors, but you need the right one to match and line up for the pulleys to align.. the ehhaust is the same, use your original. ** if you bought a turbo mpfi motor,,, then you really should just forget it,, the low compression would be very unsatisfactory for use without the turbo and just changing the heads/manifold won't alter that. the up side is, a normally asperated mpfi motor will function great with your original heads and manifold ,accessories etc mounted on it,, and you would have fresh head gaskets on there,, that would be my advice to do if you want to use any of the motor you bought,, otherwise you might find another spfi motor and trade, or sell this one and buy that one etc,, but in my opinion trying to change the cars wiring to make an mpfi work is going to turn out badly , i never heard of it being done successfully anyway, all the vehicle system is wired to run spfi is the problem,, not just the motor wiring,, the motor harness is just the tip end of the whole thing.

hi, that threaded one facing forward looks to be one of them, should be 3 , can't tell if that other one beside it is threaded or not but it probably is one. there should be another one down lower, almost straight down from the one you have in the pic, there are 3 altogether, forward facing on the front of the head. that vertical hole in the light is not one of them , and has nothing to do with anything. there is also some brackets that go to the rear of the pump to hold the tail end. if you have all the parts it's not a difficult to fit it to the motor,, one exception to note, the water outlet for the upper rad hose is extended on the P/S cars to clear the pump body, without it , the hose is pretty much in a bind , very hard to fit , and might restrict water flow to radiator. also you might mount a different pump altogether, fab a bracket and hoses.

hi, i had a similar issue on my 84 long ago,, it was the distributor, the shaft was pretty woobley on it, and the tach would read all weird, high then low, jump around etc. and the motor didn't run smooth either, i just let it go for a while, then it died altogether, when i found the cause , the distributor shaft had locked up, and that in turn stripped out the drive gear on the crankshaft that turns the distributor. i replaced the gear and front main seal, and bought a rebuilt distributor , and have not had any more trouble from it since. this may not be your issue but it is similar in symptoms.

hi, well neither end of that setup will bolt to a brat. there was a post on here several days ago that had some pics of a setup the guy home built from ebay and salvage yard parts that looked pretty good, not sure the title, but was within the past 10 days . if i see it i'll try to let you know which forum to look for it.

hi, i have had the same thing with my fi suby, i did an experiment to try and cure the high rpm cold starts. the hose that goes from that thing on the water outlet to the rubber intake boot, the aux air valve hose, about 1/2 inch diameter,, i took it off and found a short piece of hose that would slip inside and could not get pulled through to cause any problems, it has about a 1/4" maybe even 3/16" inner diameter . basically i made a restrictor that i put inside the aux air hose, so far it has been beautiful, around 1200 rpm cold starts, no unexpected problems, warm up is just as always , just no 2200 - 2500 rpm cold starts!

hi, looks good on the refurb end, but i think you may have to go through some hoops to reset the guage needles. they won't just push on and read accurate,, i think you'll need to fake the signal for each of them to set them in the correct position, i'm not sure if they need to be taken out ( so as to isolate each one from the rest of the circuit board ). so you should find the fsm info that is used to fix guage reading issues and follow their instruction to get readings that are proper again.

hi, there are 3 lines going to that vapor canister. the lines are metal leaving the tank, rubber going through body frame section , and connect back to metal tubes that are part of the assembly that is mounted inside that back panel , the plastic tank and a metal surround that also is used to mount it to the body. it is fairly hard to ruin the assembly but the little clamps are a pain, and you should be able to just replace the rubber lines.

hi , i'm not so up on the late 70's but why couldn't you use the distributor that was in each of the cars in those same cars and then the wiring would match ,, are the motors so different that you have to keep the distributor in them and can't switch them? seems easier to change dists, than to change the wiring to match them.

Hi, good questions. in the short sence xt6 front struts DON"T fit the car you're working on at all,, the rears will, but only 2wd xt6 had spring shocks and struts, all 4x4 xt6 had air suspension originally. any of the ea82 cars, wagons, xt's, coupe, series will fit both ends of your friends car,, .. now is the rub,, if the car you're working on is a 4-wheel drive type, you will need to source the rear shocks & springs etc from a 4-wheel drive car, wag, coupe 3 dr. if you buy new rear shocks the springs and seats etc can work on them from either a 2wd or a 4x4 setup but it is better to have the correct ones,, on the front same thing applies,, any ea82 series car, wagon , xt , coupe 3dr etc will fit on your friends xt,, but the 4x4 versions sit higher, so you want to source the version that matches your friends car, unless you intend to change the ride height , up or down depending on choice of parts. as for the dash , once all the stuff is un-plugged and disconnected the lights should go off , if not you can unplug the air system control computer, i think it's under the pass front seat or that lower sill panel , when you get to there we can get it's location nailed down for sure. just find any ea82 setup that is like what your friends car is,, either 4x4 or 2wd,, because if you put 2wd rear shocks on a 4x4 it will raise the rear about 3"-4" , otherwise it fits but the shocks are different length, same thing with fronts but not as drastic.

hi, you must be thinking of a ea82 lock, or a non tilt column ea81 ,, there is no unbolting the lock assembly from around the column on a tilt column ea81, it bolts on all right , with 4 bolts , but after it slides in place over the column shaft. it's a 1 piece unit with bearings for the shaft inside it.

hi, not to rain on your parade but aftermarket cats are " so bad " they usually only will pass once, when they are just put on. maybe? the next time if not very many miles ago , but i doubt they going to pass the third time, it's very common here to have to do it every year,, in fact they tell you warranty is 1 year for them when installed,, which means by the time you need to pass again a year later it is due for a new cat again. the quality of aftermarket cats is appolingy poor.

hi, couple of things to check, is the water control valve actually opening all the way, check under hood and adjust so inside lever is making full open at the valve. also make sure the heater hoses are not connected to incorrectly, seems they should not matter but there is a right & not exactly right way they go. if you are not getting good air flow, that is a different issue and we need to know more about what it is and is not doing to diagnose. is the blower pushing good air flow and just not hot enough , or, hot enough, just not enough air flow?? also what temp thermostat you using, the 180 is pretty weak in dead of winter.

hi, i can see from that picture you have no chance to get that out by conventional means,, i DO think you can weld a BIG nut on it something like a axle nut for instance,, no jb weld ,,actually electric arc weld and weld it good ,, a nut too big to strip and use a 6 point socket & big breaker bar on that. the heat from the weld job will likely help too.

hi, comment for wagonist, the 2 part lock assy that bolts together is good advise but is not what he is dealing with i don't think ,, it could be if he has a non tilt steering column. 175eya ,, as for price to impression a key , it's been a few years since i had one done,, but the rate was 35- 45 in that range then. i know of no other way without destroying it other than impressioning a key,, or trying a bunch of old keys , if you get it to turn, and release the lock ,, you can then remove it without destroying it but would still need to get the tumbler assembly out to make a key to fit. there is a tiny pin that has to be removed to allow the tumbler assy to slide out, requires some expertise to do it, it is located ahead of the black plastic piece with 2 wires, on the side of the lock barrel , it is like the diameter of a pencil lead and is pressed in flush, you need to look very close to find it, but if you can get that out you can slide the tumbler assembly out with by using a key blank or any key that fits into the lock. once the tumblers are out you can disengage the lock from the shaft. mossgreen , you still have not said if you are dealing with a tilt or non tilt column, it makes a big difference in this particular problem !!

hi, you have the most difficult situation of all, these ign lock assembly is built so it goes around the steering column shaft. ( i'm guessing you have the tilt wheel version ) it houses the upper bearings for the steering shaft also.. if it's the tilt wheel, you will not be able to get it off, or to do much of anything to it. my sugestion is to consult a couple of independent locksmiths, find the guy that can make a key from scratch by the " impression method ", it takes a guy that is pretty experienced but they can do it if you find the right guy. they often hang around auto auctions waiting for jobs making keys to doors, ignitions and all manor of vehicles, you can ask up front if they can do it. the correct blank is important, there is some mixup on this in the aftermarket but it is not the same as the other 86 yr model subaru cars, your's is like the earlier 82-84 vehicles. so the key is like the ea81 series vehicles. there is a way to remove the lock cyl from the lock assembly but it difficult to almost impossible with it installed .. even if you manage to get the 4 bolts that hold it to the upper portion of the column piece off, it still can't slide up and off because of the lock thing is still engaged in the steering shaft, i've been through this a lot, so find the good locksmith guy and pay him the 25-45 dollars and have several spares made, that is my best advice . sometimes the locks are worn so bad that another key will turn them , ask friends to try their key , might get lucky.

hi, i would suggest to verify if the spark plug wires are firing, and or the coil is firing first, if it is, then your problem might not be ignition. however i have seen the timing belts slip or strip a few notches and then still turn the cam part ways. check the belts alignment to make sure it is actually still in time. since you been working on it, check for loose conections and wires that might be loose , coil connections , and if it has one of those ignition things on the coil bracket, the bracket has to be grounded to the body or motor, if all these check ok then it is not ignition, it's likely fuel related and needs some diagnosis there.

hi, i can't say what is up with the aftermarket but they get it wrong A LOT, i have found that subaru is as cheap as some aftermarket on cables and better quality,, if it's speedometer , clutch, accelerator, all the cable stuff and thermostats , BUY ORIGINAL! my 2 cents.

hi, i was under the impression that ea81 motors 84 and newer have hydrolic valve lifters and need a different adjustment spec. the procedure is similar but the setting is a lot different, better check and find out if you have that before you decide to give a hydro motor all that clearance. some of the folks here may post the info you need.

hi, if you cannot register any compression on #2 , there is a chance like cougar says stuck valve , but also possible is the rocker slipped off and is not opening the valve . i have had this happen and usually the rocker is just laying in the bottom of the cam case, unfortunately they can slip into the motor through those oil drainback areas, at least far enough to not see it.. a magnet tool is a handy fishing tool in this case.

hi, there is a solinoid that raises the idle speed for when the a/c compressor comes on,, since the compressor is also tied in with the defrost mode it might have been engaging that and causing the idle to go up , then down , just a guess.

hi, that looks like 2wd rear shocks you have on there. however just looking at the pic of you car, it looks like the front is a bit high, at least in that pic and my opinion. if it has pass car or wagon front struts on it that raises the front some and would tend to make it appear like the rear is low?? the rear looks right for a 2wd judging from the wheel opening and the amount of tire exposed, the front on the 2wd xt sits pretty low, the pic of your car appears the front is up in my opinion.

hi, you didn't say but some xt's had air bag suspension, if your's does that might be at play here. if it has coil springs on shocks and struts then you have something else causing it. no adjustment bolt , that was on the torsion bar rear on ea81 series cars. if it's a 2-wd xt and someone put 4x4 rear shocks on it, that would cause it to sit low because the lower mounting place for the 4x4 shock and the mounting place for the 2wd is different, 2wd has a higher mount point for the bottom of the shock., and they use different rear shocks to compensate for that. would be great if you could post a pic of the rear shocks on there and say which type xt you have. look at the rear shock , if the bottom of the spring to the lower mounting eye is like 2-3 inch its a 4x4 shock, if it's more like 5-6 inch its a 2wd shock. OOPS; i explained that part about the lower rear shock mounting position in reverse,, it's the 2wd cars that mounts the shock down low on the swing arm , and the 4x4 that mounts the shock higher up on the swing arm , this was done to allow room for the drive axle. sorry for the mixup. but the point is 4x4 rear shocks on a 2wd car will sit low in back.

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