ruparts

hi, are you refering to the little curved metal clips that hold the evaporator cast together? they are about an inch long and just snap on in several places around the outside of the case?

hi, i recently tried to gravity feed fuel to my dodge van to make it run, i found that it was not enough pressure to make gas go through the needle and seat into the bowl. just saying , i could not make the gravity work for my carb so maybe it won't do it on this. if you can get a pump to do it it may make life better, i put on a pump and it did the job.

hi, symtom is a lot like a restricted flow through the fuel filter, cheap , you might try it and see if that does some good, the diagnostic check connectors need to be unplugged for normal running or the ignition advance will not function. on FI cars the coolent temp sensor can cause a variety of problems , and look for anything you might have done by accident while putting another belt back on.

hi, if it has been sitting that long , you needed to #1 , drain all the fuel from the tank first, put in some new gas. next , replace the filters, front ,, and at the pump,, then are you sure the fuel pump is working, and getting fuel to the carburetor? it will not run the pump by just turning on the ignitionto to on, you need to have the motor cranking over or running as you said by putting gas in the carb directly to check it,, after these things are in order you have a good possibility to get it running, but if you are working with the fuel that was in the tank , no way it's going to run. the carter /weber is the odd carb setup but they will work. i think a kit for them is a no go nowdays, if you got it back together right it should run even if rough. by no fuel do you mean it is not getting to the carb ? or just not getting through the carb? post some additional information as to what all you have done and it helps someone to help you out.

hi, i usually suspect tires but you can do a couple of easy tests, check that the big axle nut has remained tight since the axle replacement, sometimes they seat-in and need a retighten. if that does not do anything for it, swap the front tires for a different pair to see if that does anything, if neither of these have effect , then i would begin to suspect the axle you put in has a spot that is binding a little as it rotates.

hi, good description on doing this jonas ! however i have done this many times , never had a screw to work with.. all of them i've seen had a tiny pin , pressed in and required that you drill a notch and use some pick tool to remove it. i'll bet the one you had was worked on before and another person put that screw in it to make life easy next time, when you did it. anyway the overall description of the process is very good and is something most of us can handle,, 2 thumbs up ! by the way, that one for sale is waaay different form the one in question and " WILL NOT" fit this application.

hi , just to say the knock sensor system had 2 versions, the 1 wire and a 2 wire, that went to the actual sensor. they changed the setup but not sure exactly when, i know 85 & 86 both had the early set-up, and 87 some had the early, some had the later version. the later one is used on the ea series motors from that change date on. i have a 87 turbo xt with the early version. the problem is that the wiring from the later engine harness have some differences from the early version body harness they plug into, and don't just plug& play 100%. to totally figure it out, you need a wiring manual from both 86 and 88, then you can find how they rewired the knock system.

hi, i am thinking you are looking at the place where the drain petcock is supposed to screw in ,, if it was removed completely you can just put it back but if it got broken off somehow, you probably need to remove the radiator again to get the threaded part out of the tank. there should be a little plastic coller thing , looks like a banjo fitting with a drain hose attached to it, then the threaded plastic part of the drain valve which looks like a wingnut sort of affair, if you are just seeing a threaded hole then it's all missing , question is , did it break off , or did i forget to put it back in.

hi, it's been my understanding the cups are pressed in then staked around the outside of the hole. look closely at the outside of the hole where the cups are , should see little places where the flange or shaft hole has been peened to hold the cups in place. a few minuites with a dremel tool with a proper tip and you should be able to knock the joint cups out. not sure what means are used to fit , or to find replacements, subaru does not sell u-joints for them, replace the whole driveshaft is their answer.

hi, there is not anything on the fuel tank, there is a fuel filler hose and a big vent hose, then in the front there is a fuel out to the pump assembly and a return fuel line, and a small vent line i think goes to the evap canister, also 1-2 little vent lines on the pass side, they go into a vapor tank like thing inside the car ,it's inside the rear cover panel behind the pass side rear wheel . this can be a possible for fumes but not so likely to have liquid fuel , the fuel pump rubber lines or return line could have a leak maybe, it's mounted under the car on a metal panel near the pass side rear wheel. fuel guage sender is in the top , access is under a metal cover in the rear of the trunk area sorta to the right side.

hi, have you replaced the oxygen sensor? that is an important part of the emission management and fairly cheap about 20-25 dollars US. when they are not working they usually drive the ecm to a rich condition rather than a lean one since that would lead to engine damage. it's mounted in the exhaust Y pipe where the two sides join together , a single wire type. they do make a difference if not functioning.

hi, i just noticed the part about your car in a shop awaiting struts, i am not sure this will be a quick to remedy process. you might concider trying to get parts then take it back to them. if it's close to home you can drive it home carefully and slow, not very comfortable either. as others mentioned , you can convert, but requires some modification and a combination of parts. if you convert to coil springs the rears struts from any 4wd sedan, xt, wagon, will fit, " note, you need 4wd rear struts, otherwise with 2wd rears your car will sit really high in back". air replacements are quick if you can find some. I do not have any xt6 fronts of air or otherwise. did you post on subaruxt.com

hi , you might have a burned out blower resistor, it is mounted in the blower case , pretty sure it has a 2 wire connector, once removed it has several little coiled wires that look like springs in a row, look for a plastic thing with wires to it mounted with 2-3 screws into the blower case. the blower relay is driver side under the dash, above the ecm , there are 4 relays there,, it's the one with, green/white, red/white, red/yellow, and blue/red. the others are 2 for lights and 1 for rear defrost. you didn't say, but this information is for a ea-82 series like 1988 , so if you are dealing with a ea-81 it's not exactly the same.

hi, if it has been sitting a while the old gas is a likely cause, lots of fresh gas and a couple hundred miles driving time is good medicine , then assess it .

hi, not sure if you mean tha air flow screw that faces up on the back of the throttle body ,or the throttle plate stop screw. if you are adjusting the idle adjust screw, it is for adjustment for operating temp,,, there is another idle adjust screw on the mpfi throttle body for idle adjustment,, it is about half the size of the main one and it faces back toward the firewall, it is horizontal and you need to look closely to locate it, i think it is for the cold adjustment speed. the big air thing on the thermostat housing is the main controller and it is run by a signal from the ecm, but they can get funky and not operate quite right.

hi, there is not going to be any voltage to the pump with just the key on,, there is not supposed to be , i remember reading on your other thread someone on here already told you that. if the ignition system is functioning correctly , you will show voltage to the pump while cranking the motor over and while running,, but not just with the switch on.. there is a fuel pump relay up under the dash ,, not one of the 4 you posted a pic of,, it could be bad but it is not so common. try this,,check the fuses and fusable links again ,, then get someone to crank the motor over for you , while at the same time you are checking for voltage at the pump,, this is an accurate test for voltage at the pump. try this and let us know if it has voltage with that procedure.

hi, ea82 valve cover bolts are designed to tighten up till they bottom out, that said you need to be careful , you can feel when they hit bottom. work them evenly so there is nothing in a bind,, you'll see what i mean about the bolts when you see them. the vac hoses arn't so much a problem except getting them all hooked back right,, but usually you break the nipples on the purge solonoid and the egr solonoid, this is a problem if you did, it creates small vacuum leaks on the hose that broke off, and the function those solonoids do now don't work. the solonoids are small metal square things with wires going to them , and hose nipples on them for the vac lines, when they break off it is hard to see the break, it looks normal enough at first but then you see there is a hose that should go to something.

hi, i have had the exact same thing on my wagon. first i put in a new speedometer cable, genuine oem, did nothing. what i finally did to fix it was take the inst cluster out, turn it up so the face side is down, the back of the speedo straight up,, then put some light oil like 3-in -one or singer sewing machine oil, in the little cavity where the cable attaches. ( this is only a few drops ) objective is to get it to go into the clearance between the cable housing and the little part that turns. with the oil in place take a small something, minature screwdriver, and turn the little square stem, the one the cable turns. i'll bet it turns sorta hard at first, then as some of the oil gets in it frees up, not much oil will go in there but it's enough. then just put it all back together . this fixed mine. it was doing the exact same as you describe, slow speed and it would go crazy and very loud,, also it mostly did this when it's been cold outside ,, in summer it wouldn't do this. my theory is its a chatter between the housing and the part that turns inside it , along with the old originsal lube that has gone hard after all the years. sounde like bunk but i swear by this after years of this same problem and now its winter and no problem this year with it. just to check, i took another cluster and sure enough the thing turned hard until i did this and it smoothed and went free in a few turns .

hi, the 85 and 86 had a vac advance dist i think, not so sure which port and related items in between the dist and the actual port are connected into the entire set-up.

hi, i would think some of the speedometer specialist shops, have some kind of cable in - cable out box to make corrections like this, it is not an uncommon issue and many hotrodders have done something. aftermarket guage specialist places etc. you might need to know the revs to mph ratio of your harley head unit.

hi, i feel for the pain, i can relate to how much the wonders of modern technology are at work to make our lives better and more efficient,, what a load !! anyway , i don't have one but i did look it up , subaru part# 22632aa000 and 267- 273 us dollars depending on which place, but available on their websites, right ? i know there must be someone here has one they can let go of so don't give up. have heard the contacts can be cleaned ,and the specs and setting specifications are available on the board in the service manuals that are posted. might give it a try while you wait for something to turn up.

hi, its just my opinion but take it down with you and match it,, if its not the one then you need the other one,, 1 is 110mm height,, the other is 105mm height , that is the only two they used,, otherwise they are the same, that is except one has bolt holes and one has studs where the fan and pulley fits,, and you can add or remove the studs.

hi, i would like to see pics of the swap, i wanted to do this on my 87 xt turbo. long time back i found the maxima case too big, , is the non turbo brackets different from the turbo brackets,, also mine has factory a/c so just want to see the setup please. thanks

hi, i would think it's not the relay since each time you put a new fuse it hits right off, may be the pump is drawing tooo much amperage, it is located under the car back by the right rear wheel. you didn't say if it's fuel inj or carb but both are located in same place. you might experiment , remove the pump and run a wire with same size fuse inline to the pump and run it to see if it continues to blow the fuse.. if not then you may have a shorte in the wiring somewhere , possibly the relay or it's connector.

hi, the parts you mentioned are just better to use factory ones, and just as cheap as others, also thermostats, swear by oem,, for head gaskets most guys say the fel-pro permatorque are the way to go, hoses and belts , brake pads and suspension bits just pick a store. rockauto.com have some good deals on some things