ruparts

hi, just because #1 piston is at top , and the timing marks on the flywheel are at 0 , does not necessarily mean it is at top on compression,, it might be up on exhaust,, they will line up on both.. in essence you could have the whole thing wired right and still be 180 degrees out of time,, just a thought. your post said changed wire, as in coil wire, if you changed all of them maybe you also have the firing order mistaken too. firing order is 1-3-2-4 #1 spot on the cap is to the backside near the firewall , and the rotor turns counterclockwise as you look down at it.

hi, i'm pretty sure that part on the coil bracket is the same on all the late 80's subarus, up through the 91 loyales, so just try another one, you have to swap the whole coil bracket , the igniter is made to it.

hi, pretty sure your 93 would have the self adjusters, i don't know the answer to the why question, but the 85- on ( in this series cars ) that have the turbo motor option , came with disc rears, both 2wd and 4x4, you could convert easily if you want to. you need parts from a 2wd turbo wag, sedan, or xt , will have all the pieces, the 4x4 backing plates have a bigger hole in the center where it fits the suspension arm but otherwise the parts are interchangable. easy bolt on conversion, i even put a set on my 84 wagon.

hi, i have seen it that folks put the clutch disc in backwards causing the disc springs to bind on the flywheel,, the disc is basically flat on one side and the springs a little offset on the other side,, the offset side has to go toward the pressure plate, flat side to the flywheel. not saying this is the problem but it does happen.

hi, one way is ea81 won't have the 3 marks for the timing belt setting

Hi, fenders from any of the 82-87 that are of this series, the little hatchback doors and fenders will fit went through 89.. i think the door glass is brat only but maybe the hatch will fit, not sure. in 85 they started a new series and the body parts don't fit. the dash is also the same as above, the vents are hard to find good ones, a/c is a project but if you have all the stuff from the same series it is all bolt on and in, best to have a doner car to pick from and it is easier to see how it all fits. factory service manuals are around, i have a mint one i'd take 45 for , they are very big over an inch thick. brats are very popular and increasing in value, cool .

hi, first you need to drop down the rear differential section, undo the big bolt that mounts the nose of the rear diff to the rear crossmember,, then the big bar that holde the rear of the diff is next, you can go up and undo the 2 bolts on each side at the body , or the big bushings at the end of the crossbar. either way this lets the diff drop down enough to get the tank out. at this point you have the filler neck and vent pipe on the pass side, and several hoses ( be sure not to switch the return line and the output to engine lines) all these and a vent in the front side of the tank. the sending unit is in the top of the tank but wires are able to disconnect from below i think it has a connector there . the filler pipe and the big vent tube go through the frame rail but it's doable and just be careful not to break off any vent fittings, look at the replacement tank for all the connections if you can't see something.

hi, did you have the diagnostic connectors plugged together to check and set the timing,, and do you have them disconnected now so the ignition advance will work ?

Hi, i f you turned the pistons back into the caliper,, did you make sure that you ended up with the notches lined up so the little nubs on the back side of the pads fit in the piston notches ?? i have seen a lot of times the piston notches did not get aligned to match the pad nub . not so good things happen then. it is important to have this correct so the pad can actually sit flat against the piston, otherwise it pushes against a nub only and the pad flexes etc.. it is easy to miss doing this part after the issues of this odd system.

hi, read through your posts here, i am thinking it is that coil bracket transistor, the electrical piece made onto the coil bracket.. i had a 94 that gave me all the same symptoms that you describe, had voltage at coil , everything, but no start, swapped that part and it was instant relief. as far as fuel goes it should produce " more" than a trickle from the output of the underhood filter, the filters can be restricted some, and the tank inlet screen can get restricted too. but it was running so i think that is a secondary issue. i would try that coil bracket piece.

hi, pretty sure the drive /motor end of the auto belt track is at the base of the door pillar, between the front and rear doors you can just unplug it there from the body harness.. otherwise pulling fuses might get it but probably would turn off other stuff since the belts are not on a circuit all alone. there is a plug at the top front end of the tracks also under the pillar trim but i think they are for position sensors ,, the main drive motor is at the base.

hi, the 85 gl-10's had a mpfi non turbo engine option, might find parts for your project on an 85, i think they had the early knock sensor system even though non turbo.

hi, could you explain a bit more on the idle screw adj you mentioned, if its a carb ,ok , but if it's SPFI then are you talking throttle stop or? i didn't see where you say if your car has a carb or FI , on fi motors this sort of trouble many times it is the connection to the coolent temp sensor is real corroded and not making proper signal to the ecm,, also the sensor itself might be bad ,, that is the first thing you should check into. if its carburator then the choke function is whats problematic but it needs someone pretty knowlegable to fix it properly. also the normal tune up stuff, cap , rotor, wires, plugs, and be sure the timing is set right, you need to have the diagnostic connectors connected to set it , then disconnect them for daily driving. vacuum leaks will cause issues so make sure all the plumbing is sealed up .

hi, i think the other reply meant the electrical switch, it has a couple of little screws that hold it to the lock cylinder portion of the ignition switch,, my comment is that the connector plug on the electrical part of the switch that connects the ignition switch to the car harness , i have found several ea81 cars that were melted and overheated to a point that made a bad connection very likely . the other thing is the connections going into the bottom side of the fusible link box , try and make sure they are cleaned up and all , baking soda and water is good for corrosion and a small, sharp tool to scrape inside the connection parts that touch the links connectors. i've had a bad starter solinoid switch cause the starter to not function intermittantly but didn't cause the lights issues you mentioned.

hi, check if a timing belt broke, common on old belts that sit long time. crank it over and see if the distributor rotor turns , that will tell if a belt broke. fresh gas is your friend on this , try a little down the throttle body and crank it over, the more it runs on good gas the better it will get, needs a hundred miles or so to do lots better.

hi, if the car has been sitting for a while , old gas is notorious for this condition, putting a couple hundred miles with new gas is the cure for that. second check the ignition timing, you must have the diagnostic connectors connected ! and set it with a timing light, then disconnect them for daily driving after the adjustment,,, they might be connected now , if so , that could be your problem since that will cause the timing to not have advance. next check the coolent sensor and the connectors to it, they usually have the green corrosion and this is the temp sensor that controls the FI system. if these few things don't get you going then maybe 1 or both your timing belts have jumped a notch , easy to check , remove the outer end covers from the belts and line up the 3 timing belt marks on the flywheel with the bell housing pointer and see if the cam pully marks are exactly , 1 straight up and the other straight down,, if so the belts are right. the throttle position sensor may cause problems but if it's not been messed with don't do that till after these other checks first.

hi, i would suspect the rear transmission mount(s) allowing the trans to lift and thump the tunnel. ? if it's a 4x4 might also check the upper front mount on the rear diff , the one that attaches to the rear suspension crossmember .

hi, i think these don't just have a on - off operation, they receive a signal from the cts through the ecm which makes the actual opening a bit more or a bit less depending on the temp the sensor is seeing. i am not sure how to fake them to work on the bench , but , check to see if the actual air opening part that controls the air flow through it is free to move some in either direction,, if totally stuck it won't work anyway with voltage. they are pretty much closed with the engine hot so cold they would be mostly open i believe. it was my thinking the valve is spring loaded to be open when cold, and as engine temp comes up , they get a increase in signal to gradually overcome the spring until the valve is mostly closed with a "at operating temp" engine.

hi, that connection has a half-donut gasket that fits on the engine side of the pipe, the cat- side pipe is the cup side of the connection, there should be space between those 2 flanges which is caused by the gasket , the springs and bolts is a system to hold it together but allowes it to flex, the bolts have a shoulder so you can't over run the threads too far and over squeeze the connection. my best way to explain the gasket is imagine a donut that is cut in half sideways, it fits a short stub end of the exhaust pipe which many times is completely rusted away and presents a problem if that is the case , judging from your pic i am sure the gasket is gone but if the pipe tip is still there put a gasket in and you should be ok,, be sure to use those correct bolts and they only fit through from one side, the other flange has smaller holes just big enough for the threaded bolt ends to fit through, the springs keep the connection tight but don't lock it , if the connection is locked up the pipe will crack at the heads flange eventually. last if you have nothing left of the engine side pipe to hold the gasket you may be able to get a muffler shop to put in another type flex connection the same size but there needs to be something that allows for the motor movement or you'll have more issues pretty soon.

hi, read your post ,, wow, anyway the driver side T-belt is " usually set first" with cam pulley mark pointing up , and the three flywheel marks centered on the bell housing pointer. then rotate and do the right side belt. however if the cam pulley marks are " opposite" from each other , and line straight up and down when the flywheel lll marks are lined with the pointer ,, then i believe the belts are ok .. that is not for sure about the distributor timing , after all of this it might be 180 off or even just off somewhere because of the mechanic who didn't know what he was doing and moved it to a different orientation. you need to check distributor rotor and find if it points to #1 plug wire with #1 piston at tdc on compression. just put the flywheel ignition timing marks on 0 aligned with the bell housing pointer,, this "has to" be on the compression stroke not the exhaust stroke. then check if the rotor is aimed at #1 or 180 off from that.. this is just a ballpark adjustment ,, but should be able to make run,, you will need to set correctly with a timing light. the other electrical issues are separate from the engine belts and ignition timing issues. as for the pump, if you connect the diagnostic connectors and turn on the ignition switch it should cycle on and off every few seconds. you need to make sure if all the main fusible links are good, they are inside the small black box attached to the coolent recovery tank , each color has a different value but they are listed on the lid if you look close. the ignition coil bracket has a electrical component made on it that may have blown with the battery episode,, if you do not get spark at the plugs after you do the other things and get them working,, then try another bracket , it is important but it is assembled permanentaly to the coil bracket. try to check all the fuses under the dash and the links first, then see if your pump comes on with the ignition switch for a couple of seconds ,, that is all they do until it goes to start mode , then the ecm gets a signal from the distributor to run it continually ,, however if that coil unit thingy is bad it may effect that signal and not turn on the pump. i don't know . however ,, connecting the diagnostic connectors should cycle the pump on and off every few seconds with the ignition switch on. last thing you need to have those diagnostic connectors connected to actually set the ignition timing,, but they need to be unconnected for daily driving ... let us know what you find, guys will try to help.

hi, the majority of folks here recommend the fel pro perma torque head gaskets on ea82 motors rather than the oem, about the same money basically.. that is my 2cent, however the oem intake gaskets seem to have more width around the ports than aftermarket ones, at least for the mpfi ones , spfi is not as critical. if you do the head gaskets, don't forget to get the little oem gaskets for between the cam cases and heads, looks like an o ring , but is actually a rubber coated disc so it cant collapse and partially block the oil passage like an o ring will do.

hi, ea81 turbo motor should have hydrolic lifters which should not need adjusted. the valve covers should have a label on them stating the engine has the hydrolic lifters.

hi, you need to use an ea81 style doner car,, that is up through 84 on wagons and sedans, up through 87 for brats and hatchbacks,, if the car (early-mid 80's) and has a pushrod style engine , thats what you need... the cars with overhead cams engines, all the under dash stuff won't fit your 80-81 wagon, and the compressor brackets and evaporator would need modified ,, then there are electrical wiring / relays , vacuum tubes to run the air doors on the evaporator case and stuff too , bottom line = its involved but doable , if you have a doner that has all of it.

hi, i think all the 5 lug subarus 1985- 2008 or so have 5x100 lug pattern so should work, , the svx wheels are not this size !

Hi, I don't think there is any reason to remove the big nut, the rotor unbolts from the hub with 4 bolts and goes back the same ,, you will need to remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle to get the rotor out,, but leave the hub and the big nut alone,, unless you want to regrease the bearings and then you're also dealing with the axle joint as well. just take the caliper and carrier off and put the new back , as stated by another you do have to screw in the caliper piston , clockwise.