ruparts

hi, the hill holder cable for the ea82 4x4 has different tip end parts on it than your original, i am thinking if you can get the correct end parts along with the pin that fits through the fork you can hook it back up , the cable end is threaded , so maybe. if there is more to than that , maybe swap out the entire HH cable for the 4x4ea82 one, i think the valve end of it is the same as yours, you might find that the anchor bracket up at the fork end is different from your original,, basically if you have all the pieces you can do it. i think you mentioned xt6 clutch,, the 4x4 ea82 flywheel (and the ea81 also) have a different "step" dimention from a xt6 flywheel , i know there are guys have used xt6 clutches in ea82's but not sure if the flywheel needed to be machined to make the step correct to match xt6 dimention. do some searching for other threads here , i know i've seen discussion on this issue. might PM caboobaroo , he has had experience with the clutch differences on all of them.

Hi, it's been my understanding all the ea81 2-wd forks are the same , and all the ea81 4x4 forks the same , but they are not like each other.! also all the ea82 2-wd forks are the same , and all the ea82 4x4 forks are the same,, but not like each other. i am not sure if the ea-81 and the ea-82 (of either version ) are the same as each other,,, but they might be! i can say for sure the TO bearing that is mounted on that slider part in your pic ( top one in your pic) is for a 2-wd , the other TO bearing ( lower one in your pics) one is for 4x4 ,, you have to match the correct bearing to the fork,, both forks pictured are for 2wd , but not sure if they are ea81 or ea82 .. the 4x4 forks are bent slightly different and they have a different leverage ratio from the 2wd ones. i don't see that you have a 4x4 fork pictured. basically the difference is 2-wd verses 4x4 , but i am not positive if the ea81's are the same as the ea82's in either version. hope this made sense for you. ok idid some checking in the parts books, it shows the ea81 with 1800 engines all have the same fork, it shows 2 TO bearing , one for 2wd and another for 4x4. the ea81 fork is the same part # as the ea82 2wd forks ! the numbers for the TO brngs for the ea82 are different for them but that may be a superceded number thing. there is a separate number for the 4x4 ea82 fork and the bearing is like the lower one in your pic. there are different numbers for the pivot pin the fork mounts on! the ea81's and the 2wd ea82's use the same one,,, but there is another number for 4x4 ea82's that match the different fork used for 4x4 ea82. i don't know how different the 2 pivot bolts are but there are different numbers for the ea82 2wd and 4x4 ea82's. i can see the variations can be confusing but if you are using a ea82 4x4 , xt6 ,clutch i would try and find the correct pieces for that setup pivot bolt ea82 4x4 # 30537AA000 -- if your trans is ea82 4x4 it should have this part already. fork ea82 4x4 # 30531AA031 bearing ea82 4x4 # 30502AA001 looks like you this last thing is that the ea82 4x4 fork appears to have the hill holder attachment underneath the clutch cable connection, it uses a clevis pin so there is a hole through from side to side under the clutch cable connection,,, the 2wd forks have that hill holder connection on top of the clutch cable connection as seen in your pic. also there are some variations on the mount that holds the clutch cable housing at the transmission end,, and there are a few different cables too!

hi, i have a few fenders from 82-84 cars , i know the radio antena hole is on different sides on different years , but otherwise i think they are the same, and i think they are the same as the 81 model cars , but i am not the expert, if you check and find out i have some no rust good ones but not absolutely perfect , i'm im dallas tx .

Hi, the ground side of the fuel pump circuit is done inside the ECM,, i've had them quit working and only needed to repair the ground. you can make it ground to the body near the pump for a simple fix. not saying this is it but could save you the cost of a pump if it is. and if it is the new pump won't work either .

+ 1 on this info , he is correct here

Hi, we went through a similar problem like this in another thread not long ago. in the same area , behind the fuse panel look for the main wiring harness coming in/up from the floor/firewall,, looking for a large (12ga i think) Black wire , several inches long which sprouts off from the main harness , originally has a brass ring connector on it.. this is a very important ground wire !! my car had very similar and other weird light issues till i found this and grounded it to the body .. the thread was from july 9th 2013 " wont start " started by member godsmulligan , i made replies there too, read through the thread and there are pics ,, the ground is in his last pic , and might be this is your issue ,, i know it was what was wrong with my wagon light problems, and has been great ever since i fixed that wire.

Hi, the rubber was the sleeve, there is a wierd bushing like rubber thing that is used in there. probably only available from dealer but cheap. my 82 wagon had this awful rattle while driving, it was due to this same bushing which was worn completely out and the calipers rattled awful on rough road. as far as the difference in pad wear,, not such a worry, just put new lube in the slide parts and new sleeve on the pins and go with it. BTW i think by 84 they did away with the bushing and the pin was a proper fit , but i did have a 82 that used this bushing fit slide pin.

Hi, i was thinking of maybe getting 14" wheels for my gen2 wag , tried to find the wheels & pics pages,, i need help to locate the arcive wheel pages for 4x140 all sizes with the pics , i can't seem to find the link. anyone help thanks

hi, i had some weird light and guage problems, was told about a similar ground wire ,, it sure fixed mine. OK that blk wire in your picture the one with the fish eye connector,, look for a wire just like that one, comming out of the main wiring harness near where it comes inside the car, its some few inches from where it enters the cab ,, anyway it is black wire just like that , aprox 5-6 inches long , and with the same round connector, it is like near the steering column and behind the computer area,, but if you can follow the main harness you should see it , that one is the ground that was key to all my electrical weirdness, and it's been perfect ever since.

hi, it's under the car, passenger side just about even with the front edge of the rear tire, it is mounted on top of a metal panel you unbolt to access the pump and filter, hoses .

hi, i don't know how many different diameter pistons they made in the rear disc systems for the 80's & early 90's, loyals ,gl, gl-10, xt, xt6, series of subarus, i know i personally have encountered 3 different sizes of rear pistons. i suspect there might be a couple more , basically i guess it is not an issue which ones you use just so you put the same size on both sides of the car. technically the systems were tuned with the proportioning valve , but for most of us the difference would not likely be noticed, imho.

mistake on my part

Hi , you need to check if the valves are stuck in an open position on the ones that the rockers have dropped off. i had a motor that sat for a long time, upon starting it , some rockers dropped like you found , the valves were stuck which created the open space for them to drop off. after using a soft hammer to thump them several times the valves seemed to begin to seat and when i put it back together the rockers did stay in place.

Hi, Ok ,glad you got that figured and found the leak. the pass side fan is the main fan, the thin driver side one is the a/c fan although you can wire them to run anytime. If your radiator is in good condition it will cool the motor with just the main fan, a/c not on, if you plan to run the a/c you should get the aux fan working. also there are single row and dual row radiators, obveously the dual is more efficient but a single is adequite in most areas if it's in good clean condition inside and the fans working. get it cleaned and the leak fixed and you should be good to go,,, check the thermostat also they get prone to stick when old. there has been some discussion on factory or aftermarket thermostats, personally i feel more confident with factory on this part, but thats my opinion, they do have a bigger opening and are built more sturdy than aftermarket ones.

hi, the first thing to check is the connection to the fan temp switch on the radiator, pass side down low , below the battery , has a single yellow wire to it. the switch ( when it is on )makes the ground for the fan . with the " Ignition On " if you jumper the yellow wire to ground , the fan should run , if it does , then the connection to the switch , or the switch , is bad. if the fan does not run with that test, you need to disconnect the fan and jumper the fan wires to a 12v, and ground , to test if it is good or not. my 84 wagon used to have corrosion trouble with the yellow switch wire making connection, maybe cause of the battery right above or whatever.

Hi, my 2cents is go back and check the timing belts again,, i have seen them strip teeth and not break,, the belt was still tight and in place,,, but ignition timing would be way off. just check if the marks are still in line for sure. if that is not the problem , try another coil barcket , actually the electrical component made onto the coil bracket , it's made on so it's easier to just change the whole bracket. this part gave me much misery on a 91 loyale till i found it was my problem, and like you said i had spark and belts and fuel but would not run.

Hi, If you are having a problem with a water leak, it's more likely the drain tubes are clogged. it is common and not too hard to clear them . water from outside the roof is not totally sealed completely by the seal,, some water that does get in , is caught in a trough in the inner assembly and there is a drain hole at each of the corners. there is a rubber like tube from there down the windshield pillar to a point beneath the front fender on the door pillar. you don't have to remove anything to clear the drains . i have had best luck using a 1/16" braded cable, available at hardware stores and use it like a roto rooter through the holes and down the tubes . you can flush them out afterward with a little water to check if it is clear. if you open the glass you can find the drain holes in the front corners,, not too sure but i think the rears are accessable there too. you might also be able to blow compressed air through them to clear them. anyway most leaks are because they are clogged and the runoff trough gets full and overflows basically onto the headliner. BTW the roof glass is kinda tricky to adjust if you remove it ,, i would not advise doing it unless it is really necessary . i bet your inside leak will stop if you get the drains clear.

Hi, I only mentioned the ecm in case it may need to be unbolted and lowered to gain good viewing access to the wiring harness, i know i had to lower the fuse panel . i believe the main wiring harness from engine bay through the firewall and up through the under dash area would be the same on all the 83-84 models , i'm sure the turbos have extra wires , but that ground wire i outlined , i believe would be there on all the cars and the brats. i had driven my car for years with dim lights and inconsistant guages,, i am now sure they were finding a ground through some other component in the circuitit ,,, finally something gave up and i had no lights outside or inside..( this ground wire has a great deal to do with lighting and guages ), and before i found it i was about to give up and scrap my wagon. actually i did not find it,, i was told about it here on usmb, thanks , and , it instantly fixed ALL my particular problems. his ground might not be disconnected ,, but maybe it is,, maybe someone else has similar issues, thats why i have gone to leangths to respond about it.

Hi, i have a 84 wagon , it did have weak headlights , and some other odd electrical wierdness. on a trip, during the night, at 60mph , they quit Completely!! and the volt gage says discharge, so i put a new alt , it made no difference at all. still no lights and guage showed discharge with headlight switch on , even though the lights were not on. finally after a post here someone gave me a " check this " reply. he described a ground wire to check , that had given him similar issues in his past. it was a Main Ground Wire that was not hooked to anything!, it is located coming off the Main wiring harness inside the car where it comes through the firewall under the dash near the steering column , its a large black say 12 ga. wire approx 6inch long and had a large brass ring terminal on it. i am not sure that terminal was the original since mine was not connected , but it looked factory crimped . i think it was around 6-8 inches above the floor in the area around the column, but it was easy to locate once you get in there where you can inspect that main harness. you need to drop down the fuse panel , and the ecm , to get good access to the main wiring harness to find this ground. once i found it and secured it to a good body bracket my electrical system and headlights and blinkers, guages , all were great, you should make an effort to check this very important ground wire to see if it is securely grounded. i hope this might help, it sure saved my car.

hi, more heat and careful don't round the hex sides off, if all fails, you can cut the pipe off and use a 6 side socket to turn the fitting part, needs to be 6 side so it won't round off the fitting, then you would have a problem, you should be able to get plenty of force using that. you have to plug the hole so exhaust can't come through .

hi, the ea-82 pumps had an early (85-86) AND A LATE (87-ON) , they look similar but are "different inside" and the parts do not interchange . depending on which you have, you'll need the correct rebuild kit. the xt pumps also have early and late versions, again different parts internally , i think they might interchange with the other cars as far as fit ,but may be valved different from the other ea82 cars, as the pressure specs are different for xt's, and other ea82's , also the shafts had pulleys for flat ribbed belts.

HI, I bought a genuine subaru from the dealer for $ 238. but it was a couple of years ago. the fit was spot on , even had the heat shields.

Hi, i am not sure but ,you may have the wrong size inner cv joints, aftermarket parts stores are notoriously misinformed about parts for older subarus. the 82-89 basic cars have either 23 or 25 spline output shafts on their transmissions , there is a difference in the diameter also. i have heard of folks fitting 25 spline shafts on 23 spline output shafts,, the fit is just like what you are describing, very loose ,also they will likely fail and shear the pin because it may be the only thing locking the rotation if this is the case. some 5-spd trans have the 23 spline shafts and other s may have the 25 spline , you need to determine which you have FIRST. then buy the correct axles for that fit. most all turbo 5 spd had the 25's most non turbo 5'spd had the 23 ,, the original turbo of 84 i am not sure. all original 84 turbos were autos , i think, but i do not know which size splines they had. I DO KNOW that ALMOST ALL aftermarket parts lookup systems are very unreliable for what fits what. my guess is that they sold you 25 spline axles and you need 23 spline, yes they can be put on but will be loose like you described. better check , or you might be stranded somewhere when it shears the roll pin.

Hi, bump for another try.