thefalsediviner

Rear passenger wheel bearings, 4wd, gosh darn brake drum will not come off, no adjuster? and I'm about to rent a puller. Any one have any words of wisdom on this? thefalsediviner:banghead:

So I went over everything I could think of. Had the multimeter out and everything kept checking out, still no fuel. Then I decided that it had to be a bad fuel pump, but how does that happen with the car sitting? So I looked online and found that new pumps are spendy. Then I thought how does a pump go bad sitting? so I took my ball peen and tapped that fuel pump ever so gently a few times and, low and behold, the darn thing started right up and runs like a champ. With my health and having the car sit for 2.5 months must have made the bushings or what ever stick. thanks everyone thefalsediviner

MilesFox-I set the timing as per your write up in the manual. The cams were lined up using the lll marks. then the distributor was installed with the TDC mark and the marks on the distributor. the distributor rotor is at #1 position when the Flywheel is at TDC which was set up using the finger in the spark plug hole method. I'm 100% sure that I have the timing and timing belts set up right. I have the firing order as 1324 and the fuel line are hooked up right. Is it possible that my fuel pump has failed while the car was sitting for 2.5 months? And how do I check fusible links with my multimeter? thefalsediviner

"The fuel pressure regulator is after the injector, on the return line. You have the fuel lines backward." I've had it both ways, switched it back and still no go. I'm sure the Disty Timing and belts are right so I'll check the fusible links, although the car was running when I pulled the engine. thefalsediviner

My 92 loyale which I just did a complete reseal on wont start now that I have it in the vehicle. Timing is set up right TDS with disty rotor at #1. fuel line hooked to the regulator on the TB Getting spark but no fuel i think Any ideas. thefalsediviner

Back 20 years ago my Grandpa told me to stay away from the click type torque wrenches and use the beam type instead. He said that although the click type is potentially more accurate it has a higher rate of failure, as in snapping hardware. Sense I always listened to Grandpa, I've never actually used a click style torque wrench. I could be wrong but I've never had any failures with a beam style wrench, while having more than one encounter with a friend with broken hardware from the ball and spring failing to click on speck. Anyhow, extract the broken bolt just like GD says. thefalsediviner

Well I've got the short block just about in order. Need to go once over on the cleaning and then I can mount the heads. The seals were all OEM as far as I could decipher and the rear main and front crank seals were both flush. No problems what so ever with putting the new seals in. The oil pump took a second to figure out how to get the pulley off, then was reasonably straight forward. No real setbacks today. thefalsediviner

Thanks a lot guys, valuable information for sure. I've all ready got all my gasket sets and will be re-buying a couple of things individually. Like you both said poor quality and I noticed it at, at first sight. I've also got some good quality gasket material and know how if need be. One question though. I can't for sure say the rear main is leaking even at a seep. I'm shocked as it is the only seal that is not an obvious bleeder. This engine has well over 225k on it and I have the new seal, Yes or no? thefalsediviner

Update: Been rough going here with this car. After my initial burst of enthusiasm, reality and my real recent back surgery put this repair on the good days only schedule. The engine is presently out, heads off, on my bench. The amount of cleaning and the JB Weld removal equals a new winner in the nastiest engine I ever pulled contest. It is absolutely a testament to these engines that something in this state of repair was pulling just at 29mpg when I started this project. The valve covers were literally poo-pooed ( JB Weld) to the cam carriers which was poo-pooed to the heads. I actually had to chisel the poo-poo blobs from the bottom exterior cam carrier bolts so I could remove them. The good news is JB Weld responds to the dremel well enough. Today I'll be finishing up with the JB Weld removal, clean up and parts inspection. At first glance I'm not seeing a whole lot of work for the machine shop, so maybe there won't be any delay on that front.

I've been getting more tools together as I spend a lot of time in my workshop these days. One of the things allowing my to do this is my new habit of browsing pawn shops for tools. For instance I have $75 into my Snap-on 3/8 drive air ratchet and Chicago Pneumatic 1/2 impact, combined. Both of these tools are a little older, but they both work perfectly. I'm also learning to look at the inventory stickers as some Pawn guys code their buy price in the item number. Helps to know what they are into the tool for before negotiating. What are your Pawn Shopping tips? thefalsediviner

What a nightmare this one is. I'll need every gasket I ordered, oil coming from everywhere. The engine removal got off to a 2.5 hour delay when one of the fan clutch nuts was found in a rounded state. Finally had to hacksaw the nut off. Luckily there was enough of the stud to make removing that easy. Got about an hour left and it will be out and on the bucket. thefalsediviner

Thanks guys, I'll keep all that on advisement. I've got a hoist rig up, and I'll be starting first thing in the morning. All the initial parts will be available at 2pm tomorrow. I'll my progress. thefalsediviner

Arggh: talking to shucks/orielly parts guys on the phone is taxing. I believe that my 92 4wd loyale requires a 8 13/16ths " x 1" x 24(disc o.d. x spline i.d. x teeth). Am I correct ???? also am I correct in thinking that between the felpro conversion gasket set mentioned in Miles' video and the Felpro head gasket set I'm good minus the front crank seal?

Thank you, TFD

OK, I've got a burnt clutch. I've read the Chilton's manual and watched Miles Fox's video series. I'm thinking I ought to pull the motor and fix my badly leaking rear crank seal while I'm at it. I'm also thinking at 206K, I should replace the front crank and cam seals, timing belts , idler pulleys, seeping head & valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket and perform the bare timing belt mod. Given the vehicle was getting 28-29mpg prior to the burnt clutch, I'm thinking I don't have any head work unless I see something on inspection. Does anybody have anything to add? TFD

I'm a man of wealth and taste. Looks like a great place to BS and wrench on Subarus. In fact, the wealth of information I found here last night on the lurk, pretty much convinced me to purchase a 92 loyale wagon off of craigslist today. A new battery and some seafoam and we're off to the races. I'm looking forward to hearing from all the PNW, WA folks. I noticed that we a well represented on the board. TFD