AFCEA

I'm the original owner. It's a 2000 Outback Ltd Sedan. It's got 120K on her. A proud Subaru owner and our third one too! I'd buy another one after this one dies without a doubt and recommend one too. Never had an ounce of trouble out of any of them except this one’s CEL light within the past year. It always seems to go off just in time for emissions inspection and returns shortly thereafter. Like someone is watching out for me. Virginia actually hooks up to the ECU and reads the codes and inspects the readiness of the drive cycles. It does escape the dyno test as the drivetrain would engage the rear wheels and rocket it off the equipment. I just got done with the CEL from H#@@ on my Montero. One thing after another needed replacement and I spent a healthy amount of money too. Front O2, Back O2, cat, plugs, wires, MAF and the list went on and on. And the only thing that originally coded was the front O2. It was like a domino effect, replacing one thing led to another and each time a different code popped up. It got so bad I bought my own code reader as I was believing the garage. It was like Pandora’s box and I was trying avoid the repeat of the same with the Subaru.

OK, I live in Virginia. In order to renew your plates you have to go through an emissions testing process. I swear most of it just benefits the shop not all shops that test are a certified repair facility either! It’s a 750.00 threshold to spend to get the waiver and many shops won’t tell you that either. So my CEL comes on and goes off randomly. It's sporting P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). What are we talking? Upstream 02, downstream 02, both 02’s, or catalyst, or all three? Vehicle runs fine. My previous run with a CEL is the shop milks you for all your worth starting off with the small stuff and then hitting you for the big ticket items. I’m not interested in paying the repair shops rent just getting my wheels to pass the dreaded emissions with CEL off! Before I start playing duck, duck, goose on what part to start out with replacing what does the code really mean and why can’t a good shop tell the difference either before my wallet goes dry?

I put a new battery in a few weeks ago from Costco-Kirkland brand which seems to last pretty good. This is the third battery since buying it new. So I'm doing pretty good. All this only happens when I have A/C w/blower running, wipers, and turn signals on. And of course sitting still. I have DRL's so can't kill the lights. I use the car as my beater during the summer as the A/C works great vs my $55K Suburban that's a big POS!! I remember all of this on my 97 OBW, but Subaru had issues with them that year too. But don't remember the pully groove issue. I replaced it with an OEM at the time as the aftermarket ones were pretty expensive. I'll take it to a Auto Zone or Advanced Auto this weekend and have them test it. The terminals are spotless. For 102K and everything else working I think I'm doing pretty good. This is our 3rd Subaru and all have been bullet proof. I'll keep you posted on what's happening.

Have a 2000 Outback Sedan with 102K. Last week the ABS light came on while at a light and the guages started going nuts. Remember this from my 97 Outback Wagon. In looking up the part online it seems Subaru changed the Mfg production. What should I be looking for in addition to the Mfg. The # of pully grooves? Subaru says #23700AA31A and pully #23752AA060. I don't remember all of this from the 97 purchase.