rickyhils

UPDATE. All seems good enough for now. My oversight and approach was somewhat lacking. There was extra weight in the back of the wagon all this time. Nothing broken or out of place at either L or R coil spring/shock mounts. Both shocks are still good. Left spring does sag but only just a bit. I got the car on a level driveway and took photos. And I was I was able to temporarily get my fuel pump working again when the car wouldn't start this morning. Voltage was getting there, but motor was at a "dead spot" on the 34 year old orig fuel pump. So I reversed the polarity and spun it backwards for a few seconds. Then it was working as normal. Yes, I do have a Ford F150 electric fuel pump, but never got around to installing it. Need to check it for fuel line fitting adapters. Thanks

Thanks Bennie. Will be jacking up the car tomorrow morning and see whats up and compare measurements on L & R side. Will take a few photos. And YES I WILL BE USING JACK STANDS!

Thanks, Pizza. Although I will keep looking, as my 1991 Loyale wagon is FWD and King springs are for 4WD.

Good idea . Will look at suitable model springs on these threads. I'll first check that nothing is broken or out of place at the spring and shock mount. Passenger side rear is good, so it will be straight forward to compare with driver side rear.

I will check all of those - snapped spring, slipped lower spring perch , crushed lower shock mount, top spring hat/mount. But if all good there, then the spring has simply sagged and lost some of it's "spring". Might be possible to take that control arm off and have a welder fabricate an elevated lower spring perch? I have a friend who is very good with mig welding and metal grinding. Am in Los Angeles area. So, no rust belt issues. I want this old car to keep going for a while. It has the reliable SPFI. And the original A/C still gets cold. And thanks for you replies.

Thanks. Nothing has been touched in the rear since new, as I got car in 2003 from original owner. I can put up with some sag as long as it is safe. --- Two new struts in front. Engine (non turbo) and 5MT run fine. Axles are good and I have two extra axles lying around. Need to watch CV boots for cracking. If cracks but not leaking, I will put on new CV boots and keep the axle going. I'll keep driving it as a second car.

1991 Loyale wagon FWD left rear coil spring rides low about 1 1/2 inches, unloaded. Right side is ok. I believe that using spacers is the wrong thing to do in general. It will only put more strain on the spring coil. However, I only do city driving now. Not sure how to select the correct replacement spring. Would guess that replacing both L & R at the same time is correct. Will go to my local Pick Your Wallet . . . . I mean Pick Your Part in Sun Valley CA.

Then I am easy on the drive train due to my habits. I'll check the 90w gear oil in the currently running car. It was fresh 12 years and 150k miles ago. I could drain the gear oil and inspect it for debris. FWIW- If I were an STI owner [with MT5?] and wanted to invest in new synchros, [for max performance] I wonder how much four new synchros would be, if available. That would be just the parts only. And - I also drive a 1997 Honda Accord w/ 5spd man trans, and the 2nd gear synchro has been out for a long time now. I usually accelerate more in 1st and then go directly to 3rd. It uses 30w motor oil. Hondas are known for weak synchros.

My running 1991 Loyale has 326k on it . It has never been driven rough. It will always have 90w gear oil in the trans.

So, do synchros wear out faster with heavy acceleration?

Thanks GD . I can get the large rear bearing pressed off sure enough. Both bearings will be replaced anyway. (middle bearing just slides off the front of the shaft) . Then it's a matter of keeping my wits in getting the gears off and back on ok. Need to first research availability and price of any needed synchros. Very likely that synchros are still good , as currently running 1991 Loyale is at 326k and MT5 tranny is good.

I have been learning more about synchros. Do I have this right? They are individual clutches that freely spin at engine speed before being pushed over to mesh and then the clutch surfaces make contact, all within a split second. On the Subaru, are the synchro clutch surfaces "tapered mating surfaces" or are they "flat" and just butt up against each other? I think they might have a tapered "inner and outer" clutch surface, and that would explain why they cannot be viewed unless removed. A smooth clutch surface would not push away enough of the oil and grip well enough.

All good info there. Thanks.

I can lift out the mainshaft easy enough. If I slide the gears can I then see the friction cones? I guess that I am looking for smooth surfaces that are not "chewed" up? And I now see how that reverse lockout forces you to go from 5th to neutral before going into reverse. That is so clever. And that is exactly why I would sometimes think that I had meshing problems when going into reverse. Thanks a bunch. Ricky

I have a salvage yard MT5 FWD tranny that I am accessing to have as a backup. My 1991 Loyale runs ok. But 13 years and 150k miles ago, I saw "Gloyale" post how to split the tranny case halves. In 2008 I had exactly ZERO experience with any Subaru, but I was forced into it. With leaking (very messy) front mainshaft oil seal and vibrating mainshaft, it was either fix it myself or junk the car. I put in SUBARU (NOK) seal and two new mainshaft bearings. So, I sort of know a bit about that tranny. Pics here of the synchros. I think they look ok. And ANYONE, what is that "lockout" device opposite the shift arm? (See pic) Edit: I'm guessing it is a reverse lockout when car is moving forward. Farthest out (larger of the two) bearing has enough play to feel by hand. Just the tiniest bit of play, but it would be STUPID to not change both bearings along with the front and rear seals. And the two output shafts have seals. The smaller bearing is a IKO G TR224220E03. Subaru parts dept is iffy for me, as when the Loyale came out, there were more than one supplier for the trannys. I can't see the larger bearing number, as It needs to be pressed off first. The output shafts have the slightest play at the pinion gear. At least I know enough NOT to mess with them! Better to have a bit of play then to muck things up trying to turn that outer plate and burning it out by being too tight. HOWEVER, I admit that in 2008 I brought them in by one cog (and one cog step only) which is about 5 or 10 degrees worth of inward mov't. But no problems so far after 150k miles. And, back in 2008 I had enough "beginners luck" to remember to put sealant on the case halves before putting it back in the car! And I knew about the dowel pin at the smaller bearing. Point being that with some experience can cause one to become overconfident and that can be where stupid mistakes happen.