rickyhils

Then I am easy on the drive train due to my habits. I'll check the 90w gear oil in the currently running car. It was fresh 12 years and 150k miles ago. I could drain the gear oil and inspect it for debris. FWIW- If I were an STI owner [with MT5?] and wanted to invest in new synchros, [for max performance] I wonder how much four new synchros would be, if available. That would be just the parts only. And - I also drive a 1997 Honda Accord w/ 5spd man trans, and the 2nd gear synchro has been out for a long time now. I usually accelerate more in 1st and then go directly to 3rd. It uses 30w motor oil. Hondas are known for weak synchros.

My running 1991 Loyale has 326k on it . It has never been driven rough. It will always have 90w gear oil in the trans.

So, do synchros wear out faster with heavy acceleration?

Thanks GD . I can get the large rear bearing pressed off sure enough. Both bearings will be replaced anyway. (middle bearing just slides off the front of the shaft) . Then it's a matter of keeping my wits in getting the gears off and back on ok. Need to first research availability and price of any needed synchros. Very likely that synchros are still good , as currently running 1991 Loyale is at 326k and MT5 tranny is good.

I have been learning more about synchros. Do I have this right? They are individual clutches that freely spin at engine speed before being pushed over to mesh and then the clutch surfaces make contact, all within a split second. On the Subaru, are the synchro clutch surfaces "tapered mating surfaces" or are they "flat" and just butt up against each other? I think they might have a tapered "inner and outer" clutch surface, and that would explain why they cannot be viewed unless removed. A smooth clutch surface would not push away enough of the oil and grip well enough.

All good info there. Thanks.

I can lift out the mainshaft easy enough. If I slide the gears can I then see the friction cones? I guess that I am looking for smooth surfaces that are not "chewed" up? And I now see how that reverse lockout forces you to go from 5th to neutral before going into reverse. That is so clever. And that is exactly why I would sometimes think that I had meshing problems when going into reverse. Thanks a bunch. Ricky

I have a salvage yard MT5 FWD tranny that I am accessing to have as a backup. My 1991 Loyale runs ok. But 13 years and 150k miles ago, I saw "Gloyale" post how to split the tranny case halves. In 2008 I had exactly ZERO experience with any Subaru, but I was forced into it. With leaking (very messy) front mainshaft oil seal and vibrating mainshaft, it was either fix it myself or junk the car. I put in SUBARU (NOK) seal and two new mainshaft bearings. So, I sort of know a bit about that tranny. Pics here of the synchros. I think they look ok. And ANYONE, what is that "lockout" device opposite the shift arm? (See pic) Edit: I'm guessing it is a reverse lockout when car is moving forward. Farthest out (larger of the two) bearing has enough play to feel by hand. Just the tiniest bit of play, but it would be STUPID to not change both bearings along with the front and rear seals. And the two output shafts have seals. The smaller bearing is a IKO G TR224220E03. Subaru parts dept is iffy for me, as when the Loyale came out, there were more than one supplier for the trannys. I can't see the larger bearing number, as It needs to be pressed off first. The output shafts have the slightest play at the pinion gear. At least I know enough NOT to mess with them! Better to have a bit of play then to muck things up trying to turn that outer plate and burning it out by being too tight. HOWEVER, I admit that in 2008 I brought them in by one cog (and one cog step only) which is about 5 or 10 degrees worth of inward mov't. But no problems so far after 150k miles. And, back in 2008 I had enough "beginners luck" to remember to put sealant on the case halves before putting it back in the car! And I knew about the dowel pin at the smaller bearing. Point being that with some experience can cause one to become overconfident and that can be where stupid mistakes happen.

Without TB covers can swap out just the worn belts and then keep tabs on the tensioners and idler. I once had a cheap set of ITM (Chinese knockoff) TBs and one belt would wander back n forth across the cam gear. I think I now have Mitsuboshi belts.

Thx for the good info. And YES. The oil pump has that sprocket lip.

idosubaru I run no front TB covers on 1991 Loyale. So, can just as well leave back covers off?

My 1991 Loyale FWD 5 spd SPFI has the CEL for EGR code #34 coming on. Wiring is ok from ECU box to blu/red wire at EGR solenoid. Both wires ok. Solenoid reads 45 ohms. With ignition ON/engine OFF the reference voltage at EGR solenoid reads 12 volts. Ground is ok at ECU case and at the wire harness to engine block. Some history - Two years ago I changed out the EGR solenoid when code #34 showed up. Still CEL on. After wiring path checked ok I changed out the UPA1478H transistor array chip inside the ECU box and all was ok for a few months until the code #34 showed up again and I again swapped out that same chip. I even used a 35 ohm dummy load resistor in case that the EGR solenoid winding inductance was causing voltage spikes to fry the chip. All good once again. But later CEL w code #34 showed up again. CEL comes on and then goes off by itself after some driving. Always code #34 . All wires ok. So when CEL on I disconnected the battery for a minute or so and then restarted the car. ECU then gave no code for EGR even after raising RPM to activate the EGR. ECU acts like nothing was ever wrong. I even tested by unplugging EGR- and CEL went on. Then when plugging back in CEL went off. Am aware that revving the engine was needed to trigger any EGR code #34. For now no CEL. * So, could this be a possible interaction or contra-indication from the RPM sensing circuit? Maybe just a design flaw?

THanks

And I suppose that on a smaller scale, even the EGR solenoid can cause voltage spikes when it lets off. That's why I wired in a dummy resistor load instead of the EGR solenoid.

I looked up what inductance is. Yeah, the solenoid winding and the magnet at the starter motor will cause a huge amperage load. That amp load probably backs off a bit after gear is engaged and spinning. There must be a high amp connector inside that clamps closed to actually spin the motor. Like on my Honda. But to operate the moving solenoid is enough reason to add a relay.

OK. So a relay rated at 20 amps would do the job for the starter relay? And, on the headlight circuit, the relays send full positive voltage/amperage when ign is ON. But the connection to ground is of a lighter gauge wire isn't it? Is it that the final connection to ground is of a lower amperage? I am not educated in this. Thanks

Got it. They are RELAYS from now on! But is it not better to add relays to both head light switch and starter switch?

Good idea. Original relays are the 056708-5260. But any relay that can handle 20 amps should be OK.

All looks OK with my 1991 Loyale head light circuit. I am on an uphill learning curve here, but slowly grasping a few bits at a time. I have an official 1991 Loyale set of circuit diagrams. The two HL solenoids are always powered up when ign is ON, so full positive power is always supplied to both HLs (head lights). It is the HL switch that completes the circuit to ground. I would have thought that the switch itself need be capable of the higher amperage, as it completes the circuit to ground. I am under-qualified here I know. Another notable find is this: When a HL solenoid is out (or a fuse is out), it is the DASHBOARD HIGH BEAM INDICATOR BULB that will still transfer some low watt voltage on over to one of the HLs, causing a very dim glow to happen on one of the HLs. I had previously thought that I had some serious wiring problems when I first saw that some months ago. So not a problem there. My brain is sweating trying to slog through all of this. But it is a "good" slog. ha ha ha

Both relays [green connector and black connector] are always energized whether head light switch is on or off. 1991 Loyale Wagon SPFI FWD. With ignition on/ engine off can hear "click" when relay connected. There has been no messing with the electrical by me, and previous owner bought it new and only took to certified service shop.

As a test, I just went over to my 1991 Loyale wagon (SPFI- FWD) . When the front [closest to battery] GREEN fusible link is unplugged, the ECU does not operate at all. FWIW, the radio still works as do the headlights and everything else. It even cranks over. A peculiar behavior is that [when that 1st GREEN link is unplugged] the IAC makes a chattering sound that then goes away when GREEN link re-connected. Anyway, for the 1991 model Loyale, that 1st GREEN fusible link transfers the power to the ECU.

Liked "gifted friend".

Without ECU the car will simply not run at all. I know that much at this point. You need to check voltage going into the ECU. Undo the three 12mm bolts at ECU, then lower it and unplug the connectors. I think check for voltage with the key at ON position. Not sure which pins.

Then as General Disorder said- power supply issue. Even if no codes you should see several blinks in succession as a normal "alive and well" indication.

An impact power tool would have been nice. [ Harbor Fright Earthquake Impact gun] What is the correct tool? How would I give a quick shove and have it break free? Rebuild this? EA82? The sane and unanimous answer would be "no". By the time this Loyale might need another engine, the body- suspension - electrical- cooling - steering might be too far gone. (@ 65 years old, I myself might be too far gone). An incorrigible "backyard mechanic" (such as I) might get the crankshaft mic'd if only to see if original sized bearings could still be installed. But NO wasting money on crank grinding. And FORGET about boring the cylinders. If, and only if, I have the desire to learn about putting an engine together then I might consider it. If I have the opportunity and space to do it in. Then drop it in, listen to it self destruct, and then put the good engine back in. A FAIR AMOUNT OF LABOR. But inquiring minds want to know! But the main drawbacks are: - Lack of knowledge and experience - Need a few specialized tools - No extra engine parts available - HIGH leaning curve - TOO many things to royally screw up! Now the good news: Who cares if I mess it up? If it blows up I'll just open a Stone Pale Ale, light up a smoke, and just have a laugh. The only loss on parts would be bearings, pistons, rings, OEM engine internal oil seals, head gaskets, tube of ultra-gray. If it runs ok I can mothball the currently good engine for a while. *** ALL THE ABOVE IS MY IMAGINATION AT FULL TILT ***