rickyhils

These valve springs pictured are from a salvage yard EA82 (SPFI) . I don't recall what model. I also bagged the distributor which has the crank position sensor, if that helps identify the model or year. However, I just checked the recently removed EA82 from my 1991 Loyale. It does have those reverse wind inner valve springs.

I'll use that extra pump method.

Yeah. I didn't do it correctly. Thanks for giving the spec.

EA82 valve springs. Closer winding is towards engine. [I learned THAT the hard way]

-History unknown.Seller had no info. -I was first to run the engine after rebuild. Rebuild had only assembly lube with no oil. No heat issue. -Will look at valve seats. -I have an extra head or two. - No ej for this car. California smog check issue. Also wiring nightmare. - IF ever scrapped, will make those parts available.

Very good. The logic is foolproof. Red1 Blue2 Green3 Yellow4. Good mnemonics there. And sticky tape gets gummy and messy.

Rampage I will try those things. Was not aware that better to open throttle body during comp test. Others have said that here, but I forgot to do that. And will follow the method of standing the valves up as you mentioned. And will definitely compare the grind on the valve seats. I will spend a good amount of time on examining and I'll post some measurements and a few pics. I don't want to hurry that along at all. I have to go slowly and take notes and make a check list. And I'll keep track of which cyl each valve was in. I can also take a look at old engine valves for some casual comparison.

idosubaru I don't have any idea on how new rings would "break in ". Have heard that doing heavy acceleration several times will ensure good seating of the rings. And on cyl compression: For SPFI FWD what are the typical numbers? I am aware of the need to each cyl reading be close to the others.

Whether it is worth the effort and cost - The bottom end runs and sounds good. Yes, I need to ensure a reliable compression test such as allowing for amperage change - opening the throttle body - test at op temp. FWIW- a few days ago I got approx 130 125 130 135. So, for sure, I need to learn more about consistent comp testing. There is a built in ceiling as to how far I can or will go on this. Yes, I can readily take off the left side head and get the valves out to have a look. I will assume for now that we can locate the "What and Why" of the problem. I'll post some realistic measurements and maybe a few pics on here. If a satisfactory improvement is made and the engine shows consistent reliability then GOOD. But if problem with bottom end surfaces then I will stop as I am not capable at that point.

Step-a-toe When you pass the five month mark, I shall hand my determination-with-EA82 award over to you Ricky Now you may have just convinced me to junk my Loyale and scout around for a Mazda 1300 TC. (I wonder if it would pass California smog?) This is not any argument from me as I see full well your point. And what I have is a far cry from a factory assembly in Japan 30 years ago. I liked your Mazda story as it rings true in all of us in our own way. Now, the comp ranges were too varied. Then even with Cyl#4 up and running and valves good to go, I could possibly have a rough idle due to uneven compression?

Step-a-toe- Got it. Your example of a steel rule with proper measurements is a good way to present what might be useful here. That being said, I am inclined to do a partial tear down and have the valves out to measure them. And look at how the valve seats measure up. All else seems ok.

Step-a-toe Am I straying a bit on the topics here? Too many offshoot issues. Anyway, the Upside Down Spring issue arose during the course of assessing why the left cam has been a bit of a headache since I first fired up this rebuilt. Could well be [or at least I suspect] that a tear down of the valves is in order to see what is really going on.

Bennie, The incorrigible inner-mechanic in me wants to investigate exactly that possibility of some incorrect valves.

Re: Checking left head valves. If removal of left head is a given, then it is only sensible to check BOTH L+R heads. Sure, an extra 5 hours for me, but "Inquiring minds want to know." OR should I just put a bottle of Rislone in the crank case and let it idle for 30 minutes? (JUST KIDDING )

I just now did a compression test Cyl#1 120 psi #3 `130 psi #2 150 psi #4 ZERO. Other than cyl # 4 at zero, I don't see those wide variances in compression as a particularly good thing. Three weeks ago it was #2 exhaust valve suck open. I can see myself undoing the left head bolts right now. ha ha ha

Rampage. As I posted three weeks ago, the #2 exhaust valve was hung open due to a misaligned rocker. Compression test read ZERO on #2 cyl. Consideration to remove the left head is still very much on the table. Valves are the primary question here. And I am confidant that the result will be a good running rebuilt engine. AND, I will have another chance to Not put the valve springs in upside down. ha ha ha

I have already put the cam back on. All I recall is that the keepers on the others looked the same. Latest is that car now idles very rough. Sound location indicates a problem still with that left cam. As the overall rebuild otherwise is good on the bottom end and the Right cam, I will zero in on that left cam. I am casually considering the POSSIBLE option of taking off the left head and 100% sorting out why that #2 Exhaust valve sits low. Maybe the valve seat grind is not the same on that head? I am a total newbie here. As well I will check the entire cam lobe lift specs. And, if the decision is made to FINALLY address all issues by removing the left head, that will make things much much easier overall. I have experience of only two times removing the head in the old engine while it was in the car. [12 years and 160k milers ago] Getting things sorted out now is my game plan. And I have a Felpro permatorque gasket to throw on.

And good on you for continuing with the search. I am not a perfectionist where "nothing makes me happy" but I want a GOOD running reliable car, that's all. I have little experience (only some) but the learning is a rich experience, ESPECIALLY when I do the job done right. But the lack of good training can easily lead to perhaps "getting lucky" and becoming over confident the next time. you say the exhaust valve tip sits lower than the others, not higher... I remembered it sitting higher , but mind is on other things Have reposted a pic here. * Note- This pic was before I removed that valve spring and subsequently installed it upside down. I should stop here and list a GoFundMe account to share the repair costs before revealing And then we find out who really are our friends. (ha ha) It has the heads with K-line insert used to repair the problem ! After removing that valve spring I saw that it has new valve guides, with no crusty or cooked appearance at all. (Yay!) And there was a large washer (brass?) at the very bottom, that had a "This Side Out" stamped on one side. At least I put THAT back in correctly.(Pat myself on the back.) But it was when I became very frustrated at getting those "keepers" back in (engine is sideways while in the car. (Loads of fun!) that my mind failed to consider ALL aspects of proper spring installation. And I know that I would have quickly sussed out those spring coil groupings if I had been more patient. Good to hear car talk from "down under". ha ha ha

Step-a-toe. Left side cam was running not as quiet as right side and I wanted to know why. That was likely an over concern on my part due to my lack of experience. So, I double checked the oil paths and the rocker/cam lobe surfaces. All good there. And, while I was there, I wanted to be sure that the four valves ran smoothly and were not bent. And it was so difficult to remove the springs [while in car] that I stopped after the first one. That same exhaust valve at cyl #2 was hung open three weeks ago because the rocker was not aligned. And that same valve appears to sit lower than the other three, as my other post shows. After verifying that the valve was not bent I put the spring back on. Not til then did I see the difference in the top/bottom coil ends.

With my infinite wisdom I installed an exhaust valve spring UPSIDE DOWN. 1991 Loyale EA82 non turbo SPFI . I will correct it but not till I fabricate a safe and efficient way. I am going to be driving it a bit and stay below 3k rpm. I will need a better way to compress the spring with engine in car. The rental tool was a PITA as limited space. Any thoughts much appreciated.

Yeah. Totally NOT good practice, as a rule. But should not the HLA take up the slack? Anyhow, before I button it back up I'll also check the other three valves on that side. And yeah, higher rpm nothing to be squeamish about. 4,000 ok. And up to 5,000 it has been while accelerating. But it is FWD so it will never be a good "Trash Wagon". ha ha ha

Bennie- the rope trick worked way good just now, Thank You. Hey, my goal is to simply NOT get stranded with a dead engine on my hands and have the hassle of getting it towed back home. And THAT, my friends, is what motivates me now. I also have a 97 Honda Accord 5 spd 2.2 non-vtec that runs well but I like this Loyale 5 spd of the post GL vintage. It's a wagon and it's so easy to load up and go. Sure I will have to downshift on a grade but WHO CARES?? Don't need no stinking EJ PITA swap. And I pass California smog with flying colors. And the timing belts? OK, I think I would really like pushrods better, but I am getting close to being a TB and a c/v axle expert on this car. ha ha . OK, I know that the EA82 is a "dead puppy" but I know more of what to have on hand to get a bunch more years out of this car. And the findings from my efforts an hour ago are: The exhaust valve in question is OK. It turns and pushes in/out smooth as you want. And it seats [pulls out] closed with a solid "bottom feel" with no crusty bits to add a shred of doubt. And that OEM tiny spring around the the valve guide seal looks new. So, why the missing 5/64 of an inch on the length? Was the grind deeper on the other valve seats? And won't the HLA just take up the slack? Rebuild history is 100% an UNKNOWN. And the power on acceleration is what is should be, and it hums all the way up to 4500 rpm, but I try to stay around 3k or 3.2k max on the highway. If it idles on the slightly rough side then I'll keep at it.

I am all for checking that valve. I will devise a way to compress the spring safely. And at least the cam carrier is still off the engine. Three or so weeks ago I had ZERO compression in cyl #2. The reason was a straddling rocker on . . . you guessed it, exhaust valve on cyl #2! The same valve in question here. Right now I am a bit bothered that I did not put 2 and 2 together on this. But thanks mka and Dave T for making more sense than I seemed to have been able to muster up. Will get to checking that valve now. Will put some rope into cyl #2 and bring compression stroke comes up as I don't have compressed air otherwise .

Grounding for ECU should include both the mounting bracket under the driver dash AND the heavy wire eyelet [in the harness] that bolts onto the thermostat housing. Check those. And, just curious, with ignition ON and engine OFF, how many blinks does the ECU show. Maybe six blinks that repeat?