buzzcon

Hey, it's nice to see some old friends. Life ot in the way and I haven't been around for a long time but I'm glad to see some old names . Life got in the way and we lost track, tge sites so different and my wife's finding our way around ( she;s better at it than I am) and we'll try to get back more often. Thanks for keeping this site up.

I disconnected the idol air control valve & started the car...idling at 1300 rpms & surging, plugged it in while running ...stopped surging rpms went to 1600 & started surging as car warmed up...stopped surging when it reached normal temp. still had fast idle. I'm going to remove iac when I find a replacement gasket, having a hard time finding one. Thanks for your help.

Now I have fast idol & it starts surging as its warming up. Idol drops to 1500rpms after it's warmed up. I cleaned the throttle body, which may have been a mistake.I'm throwing codes P1507 & P1133. When I turned on the AC it started surging & if I run the rpms up to 2000 it starts cutting out.Past 2000 it runs fine.I think 1133 is the front oxygen sensor & P1507 has something to do with the throttle positioning. Someone please help me.

Thanks. I think I did it that way, but I'm going to check it again. I won't be able to get to it till the weekend, so till then I'm driving my wife's '86 gl sedan

I'm back...I replaced the broken belt and I had a bad idoler pulley, which I also replaced. (This time with dealer parts) The cams turn okay so I timed it with the belt (all lines at 12 o'clock high) and I tried to start it; it fired on 1cylinder, one time and the engine sounds like it's too advanced, like on an old v8. Checked timing again, and the timing marks were off so I retimed it. Cranked the engine over with a rachet & the timing marks didn't line back up, like it's slipping. Any ideas? or am I doing this wrong? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks; I've been on a budget all of my life.

I'm hoping someone's familiar with the Granite Falls, Washington area. I might be forced to take my car to a shop, in Marysville, or maybe Arlington. I'll have to have it towed so Seattle is out of the question. Does anyone know a reliable mechanic in the area? I've never relied on someone else to fix my cars, so I'm kind of paranoid, about it. If there's more to do than the timing belt, do to lack of a garage, I'll have to take it to a shop, where I'll be at their mercy.

Thanks, will do. I haven't had anyone else work on any of my cars, before so I'm a bit paranoid.

okay, so here it is; I've got a broken timing belt; after 36,000 miles, but it was an aftermarket belt, so maybe I got what I deserved. Since this is a close tolerance motor, is there a way to see if the valves are bent, without tearing it all apart? When i put the belt on, I replaced everything, so I shouldn't have to do it all again. I don't have a garage, so I've been looking into repair shops, but I can't find anyone that I trust or can afford to do the work. I can do the work, and have done it before, but it's hard to find a day that it's not raining.

I got 5 codes; some of them repeat themselves. Here they are : P0340, P1130, P1133, P0340, P1133. I don't know if the repeats mean anything or not. I've tried to find the codes. I thought that I read that someone posted them, but I can't find them, if that's true. So anyone that has an info would be a big help. I forgot to say that the exhaust had a sweet smell to it, before the engine quit running. When I replaced the timing belt, I replaced everything. That was done at 80,000 and now it has a 116,000 miles. Thanks, in advance for any & all help. ~Myles~

Thanks; I'll check it out this week-end.

I borrowed an Actron AutoScanner. from a guy I work with. I'll hook it up this weekend and hope to find what's going on and pray that it's something I'm capable of fixing.

I doubt that it's the timing belt. I changed it three years ago and have put around 27thousand on it. The engine is turning over fine & when I turn it over I can smell fuel. I do have a smart phone, a Samsung note3 android. I'm looking into it now. Thanks for the quick response. I'll keep you posted. ~Buzzcon~

About a month ago, the engine light came on, gas mileage went down and today, going down the highway the engine quit running. I could smell fuel, but the engine won't start. It turns over, but it won't start. Anyone have any idea as to where I should start looking. I don't have a reader. ~Myles~

Good idea, about taking the seat out. I've layed upside down and twist-o-flexed for so many years, it doesn't occur to me to remove the seat.I do notice a tighter fit, these days. My cars must be shrinking. Granite Falls is about 60 miles northeast of Seattle, at the Cascade foothills.

Thanks to everyone. It's an EA82 and it's not on the steering column. Thanks for the pic. As soon as it stops raining I'll go out and see if I can find it. I've pulled the bracket off so I could see better under the dash, but there was nothing else connected to it, but I'll check around the area. Thanks for the help; I'll keep you posted, or keep whining and begging; whatever seems appropriate after I check again. I agree with rdweninger about the concrete mounting block, It would be much easier to locate.

Thanks, for the info. As far as the relay, I still can't find it. I don't have any idea where to look, now. I could tell you how frustrated this is making me, but I know you've all been there. If this wasn't such a great running little car, I'd give up! Anybody, any other ideas. HELPPPPPPPPPP!

I still can't find the darned thing; I don't know if I'm looking for a black rectangle or silver relay. I removed the bracket that holds the four silver relays to see better under the dash, but nothing. There is a small rectangle black box that has six wires going to it, between the fire wall and the fuse box, bolted adjacent to the firewall. I hate hand signals, especially during the spring neverending rains. Any other help would be great.

My turn signals and flashers don't work. Once in a great while the turn signal will blink once & stop. I've checked the fuses and tried to locate the relay, but I'm getting no where. Does anyone know where the relay is located & if they are both on the same relay or separate? I found 4 relays on the left side of the steering column, on a plate, each having 4 wires, but the relay that the auto parts store says it takes has 3 wires. My manuals are vague.Please help, it's driving me nuts!

Hey, thanks. That makes sense. I'll check Harbour Freight for the gauges; O'Reilly's wants $54. Fairtax4me is probably right on the gauges, so I checked the prices. I forgot to check Harbour Freight, though.

I have been trying to find out how to contribute some money, thru Paypal. I haven't contributed for way too long. There should be an easy way to contribute and it should be easy to find. ~buzzcon~

Usually when it's recyling, it's low on freeon. Even if it was supposed to recyle, it's not supposed to lock up. I don't have another set of gauges, but as far as accuracy you're probably right. However, when I 1st added freeon, it was reading low; after I added it the reading was good, but on the lower side of good. It ran fine for 3 weeks, then it started recycling and it locked up & stopped. Then the reading was in the red zone for high pressure' on the low side. Something must have gone wrong for it to run good for 3 weeks, and then start acting up and reading differently.

The compressor was cycling off & on. Even when the compressor is not running, the pressure on the low side is high. Early this morning I turned on the compressor and it ran, blowing cold air. I turned it off because I didn't want it to lock up again.

The AC in my 2000 Impreza, was turning off & on, so I bought freeon and added it to the low side of compressor until the gauge read "good." 3 weeks later the AC started clicking off & on and the compressor locked up, so I turned it off immediately. After it cooled down, I turned it back on and it worked again. I hooked up the freeon gauge on the low pressure side and it read in the red, (too high). The compressor locks up. Any idea of what's going on? Why high pressure on the low side?

I've read that Sylvania doesn't meet any set standards in building their bulbs, so it's a hit or miss deal. Phillips has a contract, with the auto industry, to meet certain standards, at least in the bulbs they supply to the auto manufacturers. The relay sounds good. For now I'm using one of my old bulbs. How about LED headlamp bulbs? Just wondering... ~Myles~