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kickascii

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About kickascii

  • Birthday 01/26/1977

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  • Location
    West Virginia
  • Vehicles
    I Love My Subaru

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  1. Found a solution. Crazy, but looked at pictures online and found the 1997 Impreza Brighton to be the same as my original part except for the high psi connection; and they had it in stock. Bought it, swapped the inlet port fitting and installed. Took it for a 10 mike trip today and fine.
  2. My car: 1996 Subaru Impreza Brighton 1.8L Hoping someone can make sense of this. I am attempting to change my pump out as it's leaking and thought it would be a simple remove/install. However, after 2 wrong ps pumps from Advance Auto, I'm in a bind. So, my original pump has (2) connections (one for return and one for high-pressure side). The replacement pumps have both had the provisions for what looks to be a relief valve and plug tapped in the side with the holes machined in that port. After putting everything back together, of course fluid sprayed out that new provision. My original pump does not have those provisions and is just a closed orifice on the side (see pictures). Looking at my options and I don't really like them and hoping someone can chime in with their intelligence: OPTION 1: Get my pump back from Advance and send it off to have it rebuilt. ($75) OPTION 2: Buy an OEM pump from Subaru ($300!!!) OPTION 3: Attempt to find a relief valve and plug for the rebuilt pump and seal my new mystery ports. OPTION 4: Find a rebuilt model that does not have the pressure relief holes drilled.
  3. So, it broke and now I'm looking for a new control unit. 1996 Subaru Impreza Brighter w/ AC. Anyone have one to sell? I found a couple on car-parts.com, but wanted to check with you folks. Thank you.
  4. Great news! After a few hours of work, I have replaced the drivers side axle, tie rod end, ball joint, had the wheel bearing pressed out and new one in, and now on my way to get it aligned. Thank you all for your help and tips! The socket tip worked like a charm to get ball joint out.
  5. Great idea! I need to remove the whole ball joint so I'll loosen the bottom stud, then put the castle nut back on then bang the control arm. I might also see if that jack trick works.
  6. Thank you guys, lmdew, I've got a 3lb hammer so I'm gonna give it a shot. I'll put the strut bolts back in and try that. I'm learning new stuff here and I've replace engines and trans just not done suspension parts. I've already f'ed up the tie rod and replaced it, now the ball joint needs to come out. Once I get it out of the knuckle, how do I get it out of the control arm?
  7. Hopefully I get the pinch bolt out, what is the easiest way to separate knuckle from control arm? I have a ball joint tool (angled), will that work?
  8. I took the axle out and caliper/bracket off. Turning the hub definitely makes a noise and is a bit rough. However, now I need a tie rod end. MF'er! LOL
  9. I'll see if I can check it out today and will be back. I may not have a chance to take care of it till this weekend. I don't have a press so I guess I would need to take the hub to a shop, right? How much is average charge for something like that? Any issues that might come up; like if the bearing has seized to hub?
  10. So I've had this noise for about 6 months now and thought it was my left-front cv axle because it had a torn boot. I assumed it was just slowly killing itself and I'd change it when I couldn't take the noise any longer. Last night I changed the axle and the noise is still there. DESCRIPTION OF NOISE:: Loudest when turning left AND right. It sounds like a really worn tire that has been chewed up from a bad alignment when turning. It's relative to speed and can feel it a little bit in the steering wheel. HISTORY: I changed the right-front axle about a year ago with an Advance Auto NEW axle (not rebuilt). I can't tell if it's on the left or right side. Could it be that other axle making the 'whirring-grinding' noise?
  11. changed it. Piece of cake. Thank you for your help! I installed a used one from a local yard that I picked up for $30.
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