Subi81

should have weighied before and after. It does look like it would flow a lot better.

Have you ever tried to work on a saab with that goofy @$$ hood. Maybe it is just me but I can't stand the reverse hood opening deal. I say go with the pins and keep the functionality of the hood. OOOOOOOOrr find some sort of low profile hood release that you can weld in there? What about flipping the IC 180 deg and pushing it more towards the bottom? Looks like you are really getting somewhere with this? Gonna keep my eye on you.

Have you checked to make sure the diagnostic connectors (green) are unplugged. They are either located near the windsheild whiper motor in the engine compartment or under the dash near the computer. On my 86 turbo if the diagnosis connectors are connected and the key is turned to ON the fuel pump will pump in an on off fashion to show that it is working. Not totally sure if it is the same on SPFI for 88. But maybe worth a try.

About getting the turbo on the front side of the engine. Now anybody correct me if I am wrong but could you get an XT turbo Manafold and turn it around 180 deg? I don't have one of those manifold in front of me so I am not sure if the ports will line up or not. On some of the newer EJ engines you can do this. Just brainstorming maybe it can be done with the XT manifold.

I meant the tubing that you painted black on the bottom oh and also the egr, anyways it looks awsome.

Nice job, I like how you got all the tubing too with black, seems like lots of people polish up there intake then have the same dirty tubes put back on it. Top shelf job! One question though, what does the inside look like?

Hate to state the obvious but you have a real mess there. My MY 87 fsm doesn't even have that junction on there: Looks like someone added an extra one way valve and the whole deal with the duct tape. here are some pics: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/645/306IMG_5598-med.JPG http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/645/306IMG_5599-med.JPG

yea the hammer trick has worked for me in the past. It kinda "sets" the taper together, but both surfaces have to be clean.

Very nice, thanks for the site I have been looking for an animation of the vnt in action. I think it is gonna haul some butt when you get it all together.

I am having a similar problem, bearly idles with oil cap off. And poor idle on warm start up, this weekend (with my trusty FSM in hand) I will tear into mine, checking: all resistances for injectors, egr silinoid, coil, install new intake gaskets, check the pcv system and maybe install new hoses if needed, check the thermo valve for the Evap canister and post my results when finished. Hopefully I will be able to find something amiss.

Anytime sorry it took so long.

Bumpitty

I think the gallery resized the images let me know your e-mail and I will e-mail them to yoiu.

OK I cut them down quit a bit but they are still readable, hope these help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=4303&sort=1&cat=645&page=1 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=4302&sort=1&cat=645&page=1

ok I got them scanned but they are like 135 MB files so I will work on getting them down.

man I am really sorry. My internet was down last night and now my roomate is out, I will try again tongitht when he gets back.

So are these different. I have been having some trouble ever since I got my 86 t-wagon. I cannot get the time the thing to 25 deg, the closest I can get is about 27 deg. Yes I have checked the belt timing and have even tried to restab the distributor. Little history Got the car for free, came with 2 heads that were supposably blown and some other misc parts some of which I cannot remember and might have been cam cases too for all I know. Here is what I am thinking. Car blew a HG heads cracked, mechanic replaced heads and cam cases from a newer gen so when I put my 86 disty in the 87 and up cam case I am off a little. Looking through my 85 FSM the drawing for the cam case looks a little different but I want to get a finally answer from someone who has actually seen the 85 86 cam cases. Also I am aware of 87,88,89 cams being a little better preformace wize is the disty gear in the same position as the 85,86 cams. Is it a direct cam swap, no strings? Thanks a bunch Sorry to be so wordy Mods if this is in the wrong forum feel free to move it. I figgured it was a little more indept and a little modish?

It would probably be a good idea to depressureize the system. If you look under your car in front of your passenger side rear tire, you will find a little shelf on this shelf is the fuel pump, find the electircal connector to the pump. Dissconnect fuel pump electrical connector. Now try to start your car for 5 seconds, if it starts run it till it dies, remember to turn ignition to off and reconnect the fuel pump connector. now the pressure is off. Look in the engine compartment for the fuel filter, should be the 4 inch diameter canister in the rear driver side of the engine compartment Loosen both camps and take off the old filter, watch out it will have some gas in it so have a coffee can or something to put the filter in. Every time I have changed the filter the lines have been a pain in the butt to take off and put back on. Your results may vary. Put on the new filter in the same orientation as the old on, screw down the clamp and fire her up. Might take a little cranking remember the pump has to pressureize the lines and fill up the filter. Good luck

OK I will try to scan them tonight.

About the surgeing. My 86 does a similar thing. I have an air fuel ratio gauge and boost gauge hooked up. Whenever I boost like 4psi for about 5 sec the a/f gauge will still go between rich and lean for about 5 sec, after which it gets the picture and goes full rich. Everytime it goes to the lean side there is a slight hesitation, every time it goes to the rich side the car really wants to go. I have not found the reason for this yet. My theory is maybe the boost signal is not getting to the ecu. So the computer doesn't know the car is boosting so it doesn't go into closed loop "full rich" mode. I guess that would be something to look at. I don't have a garage so it is difficult to work on these things. Good luck.

Straight from the FSM 86 electric section Hope this helps. All I have is a 5 megapixle camera. My roomate has I scanner if the pictures are hard to read. Good luck http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=645

I got mine from Subaru, but the local autoparts store had them too but it was going to be a wait so I went to the dealer. They had them in stock. Just remember when putting them on there is a left and right side. I removed the diff but you might be able to do it with the diff on the car not totaly sure. Drain it take out the old seals and slip on the new ones. Now no leaky good luck!

ya those first couple of days after a major undertaking can be a little stressful, just keep your eye on the gauges. If you have a bench grinder you can make your own headbolt socket for the cost of a 3 inch extention and a 17mm socket. Made my own and it saved me a lot of headache. Good luck!

When I rebuilt my ea82t. The cover in question was so gunked up with blowby I don't think any air could get through there. Take it off and regasket it.

fuel filter replaced made no difference.