Subi81

When putting belts on I use the same method that WJM uses just line up the dot with the valve cover or cam case cover gasket, whatever you want to call it. I guess you could use a level and get the pully in the vertical position, if you didn't trust your eyesight. So far I have had good results without covers, made swaping them out a heck of a lot easier. Good luck.

I can get it to boost it I mash it hard in nutral, but only like a half a lbs or something at @ 3 grand.

I agree straight to the manafold, I tee'd mine in where the automatic transmission tap is. I don't have an auto so there was a free vaccum port. Mine has never been boucey at all. I have an autometer gauge. They seem a little lethargic to me.

So what the heck caused this, did you leave the sunroof open in a downpore? Did that once and it soaked everything.

Sounds like the AC pulsur sensor, it goes on your AC compressor.

Yes the fast idle speed is adjustable, took me forever to figure out what this set screw was for, go here for a picture of where it is on your manifold: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=2783&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 You do have a turbo motor in that RX right?

Had the same problem on my 86 t wagon, turned out to be the control head in my case, the valving was all messed up inside. The vaccum line comes off of the intake to the pass side, heads straight for the cruise control pump then heads next to the strut mount and goes to the little cloudy white canister by the firewall pass side from here I can't remember where is goes. Also check the one way valves along the way, on my 86 there was one maybe 2 foot before the canister.

Dude I have been wanting to do that for the longest time!!! Cool that someone finally used this really cool feature for something that can really be informative. Lets see outside temp, put hand to window, ya it is cold, there is your thermometer, now put one on the intake yea!!!! Awsome post and let us know how it works. I was thinking about putting one inside my IC at the outlet side. In the FSM it states it has a range of -22 to 176 deg F I think that would be perfect for downstream IC temp probe, upstream I don't know I think it would excede that range. Totally let us know how it goes.

Balls to the wall shift it at 8000, naaaa just kidding, usually I shift around 3000 to 3500.

I had the same problem with napa boots I would only get 1 month out of a boot, went thought like 3 boots same axle, finally tried another brand, autozone or kraggen or something, the boot has given me NO trouble for over a couple years now. If you look at the napa boots they are constucted as two halfes put together to form one boot. Mine would always crack on that seam throw all of its grease all over my exhaste, smoke like a son of a b*&%*. I would recommend trying a different boot manufacurer. Good luck.

Yes it is a pain the the but, took me a couple days of trial and error to get mine out. I ended up making my own puller out of a 2 ft long piece of all thread with nuts on the end, you put the all tread in the inspection holes get the nut on the end to go past the end of the piston pin then pull like a son of a gun. Kinda hard to descibe in words, anyways with a little ingenuity it can be done. There is no substitute for the correct tool though. The correct tool will save you sweat, blood, and most importantly time. Good luck

I got one for an 87 spfi with A/C that is LONG one on my 86 Twagon with A/C is SHORT. Didn't realize until I installed the pump the accessory pullys whouldn't line up, a quik trip to the jy fixed the problem. just had to get a 4 Bolt Pully My turbo wagon had the pully with 8 bolts = SHORT PUMP SPFI had pully with 4 bolts = LONG PUMP I guess technically they are studs off of the Water pump Hope this helps Good luck.

Sorry to here that. Engine campartment looks like a total mess. Still don't understand why it is blowing oil? Compression leak? over filled?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=613 Here are those wire diagrams if you need higher resolution I can jack it up more.

Caboobaroo ya the wireing diagrams are very helpful I am sure you could wire up a dash without one but it would take a long time. baccaruda Ya I will look around for those diagrams, I have the FSM for 86 and 87 I will try to get some pics sometime this week. don't worry about the beer money I need to cut down on my "distractions" from school work.

To convert a dash all I had to was make a new wire loom (see Pictures) that connects the analog inputs to the digital inputs, Change the fuel sensor, run a wire to my rear defogger switch and make additional space behind my dash for the additional wires. Read the first post for all the details. Figgureing out which wire goes where was the hardest part, soildering all the wires together was just plug and chug. Then there is the debbuging, (hey why is my defogger indiator on when defogger is off?) Lots of headscratching!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! One thing that should be noted, the convertion that I did converts an 85-86 digi dash to a 87-@89 Analog dash, if you do a convesion that uses the same year dash then it might be a little easier ie the headbeam indicator and defogger indicator might not need modification. Also you will need the FSM for both dashes, this proved priceless in the conversion. Hope this helps

The original messed up digi dashes fate hmmmmmm?? - I think I will make a display out of it and put it on the wall, maybe with some nice backlighting? There is basically no way to make it a functional dash agian, all of the connectors have been ripped off the board, if you go to the image gallery there are some pics of where I ripped out the connectors, not pretty. The digi baccaruda sold me worked flawlessly bty. I used it as the backup while my broken one was getting sacrificed. You want it back Really????? I don't know... good working Digi's are hard to come by.

Very nice I think it looks a lot better mounted you can really see the thought that went into the pipe placement, truely awsome!!!!

Make sure your oil filler cap in on tight, my car barley runs if I have it off. Not sure what causes this? Anyone out there know.

Finally converted digi to analog dash that I bought from baccaruda (totaly recommend buying stuff from him) Anyways, my approach was to make a converter loom. On one end is the connections that the stock dash harness plugs into(female), I had to basically rip these off the digi circuit board, I highly recommend doing that if you really hate your digi. On the other end of the custom loom are the connectors that plug into the back of the analog dash. see pics in gallery The bueaty of this system is you can always switch back, not sure why you would want to, plus it let me do all of the soildering in the comfort of my bedroom/shop/computer room... then when I went to install just plug in my adapter and install dash. Here are some pics from the install and my cheat sheet I made: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=306 Some things that should be noted: -Chime doesn't work, not a big deal to me but some people might not like this the reason for this is I converted an 89 RX dash to go with an 86 wagon. in the 89 the seatbelt timer and chime is all a seperate unit, but on the 86 that at is all built into the dash. When I ditched the digi I ditched the timer -Seatbelt light doesn't light: again the timer is a separate unit -EGR: on the 86 there is an EGR light that comes on every 60K miles, I guess on 89 RX dashes they are to cool for this, so there isn't one. cool -Highbeam indicator: the 89 uses a control ground circuit while the 86 uses a control positive circuit ie 89 has positive going to the light all the time stick this in a contol positive circuit and the display is reversed. indicator is on while highbeams are off. -Rear defogger: this circuit suffers the same problem as the hightbeams, opposite circuit contol, I got around this by making a jumper to go directly to the defogger switch. -fuel sender unit: yes you have to change the fuel sender unit, what is really funny is when I got the wagon the fuel gauge was all messed up, someone had replaced the digi sender unit with an analog unit, so I really scored on that one. -Temp sender: there is a rumor that this has to be changed also, looking in the fsm and from actually testing it I believe this is NOT the case, the temp gauge seemed to function just fine. -Oil pressure: since the Digi doesn't have this I found an open spot in the digi harness and plumbed in my own line to go to the Oil pressure sender, just have to get the sender unit now. -Out side temp: On 86 digi's the outside tempurature is intigrated into the dash, and not on the trip computer like 87 and later models, I happen to have an 87 trip computer and will probalby install it and get my temperature display back. so there is a way around that. -Trip computer "range" function: since I changed my fuel sender unit I am not sure if the trip computer will like the new senders input: more testing will reviel if this is going to be a problem or not. off the record this function never seemed to work right anyway, found myself driving around on 1/4 tank and trip computer said I should have been stranded a long time ago. -Color: Don't get me wrong I love the color, nice and green but in 86 they used red so your trip computer display and all of your illumination lights will be the same red color after you switch. I thought about switching the dash color to red but clear plastic behind the tack and speed dials is tinted green so putting red bulbs in there would not fix the problem, someone on the board did it but I am not sure how they did it, whoever did it fess up. I gues just a cosmetic problem. I guess if you are color blind it won't make a difference. -Cutting: inorder to make room for the extra wires behind the analog dash I had to do a little cutting, just a little, maybe 5 inches by 1 inches. -Some good news -trip computer: all functions seem to work except the mentioned range function. -Display is awsome: green -dimmer adjustment works perfectly -needle movement ahhhhh in my opinion soooooooo worth it. when I got the car the transition from my nice 81 wagon red display to the ultra robotic dork tack, and exacto, sezier inducing speed display was a real let down -telltail graphic: there is a graphic for fog lights and there is a little Hazard symbol that I am sure I can utilize for something -Diff Lock = 4wd guess I will just have to get a new tranny to go with my dash ironically I am using an 86 RX tranny but it is just 4wd DR with RX low -Low range = Low range -Turbo light works -Door lock light works, I hate this light I wish I whould have disabled it. -Now I have a voltmeter!!!!! Man if you are still reading this you are diehard, Hope this helps any future converters check the pics out for the conversion sheet and if you want an excel format i am sure I can provide that in a little bit. Good luck

Yes only one lock position, but you should be able to adjust this to any position that you want. I think this is how it is supposed to work 1. Set position of tilt while driving 2. Prep to exit car 3. Tilt steering up 4. Exit (Wow that was easier with the wheel out of the way) 5. Enter car 6. Pull wheel down and locks in driving position 7. drive it like Solberg Personally I never touch the thing, just set it and forget it. Hope this answered your question

Cool thanks

You know the 60K mile light. Trying to get a 89 RX dash in place of a 86 digi dash. Just want to know if 89's have an egr idiot light. Thanks

Ahhh I just read that bottom of the post ignore all below ya driving on a blown HG = not good. Good picks deffinatly a lowered wagon, the RX ground effects look great especialy the from one, gives the wagon a mean look! Ya what the heck did you do to that engine, can you fix it? It looks like someone attacked your coolent passages with an arc cutter. Is that from just a blown headgasket? You can acually see the sleaves! trippy!!

My 86 twagon runs out of steam at 5500 also, just can 't push it anymore, so that curve looks pretty correct to me. Thanks for posting this.