Subi81

Sorry to here about the tranny but I laughed my ***** off on the story, Manual all the way!!!!!

Yea you have to be a little more carefull if you mount them low, I have always been told that that lower the lights are the better, gets under the fog. Picked myself up a center (passing) light dash switch and used that as a relay/switch taping into the headlight wire right before the fuse box, then ran a wire with fus to the switch. Not sure if this is the correct way to do it. But it seemed to work, might be better to just tap off of the battery or something? Good luck

Some on my 81 wagon: square perlux fog lights with louvers: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/306153-5375_IMG-med.JPG if that doesn't work http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=306

Hey I took some pics of my 87 fsm CARB wire diagram and the heater ventolator control, I hope they help go here for them let me know if you need MPFI or SPFI I have those too: should be the first 4 pic: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=306

Ok now we are talking, I have a fsm so I snapped some pics of the wiper circuits along with the troubleshooting chart. Maybe the cam that stops the wiper at the home position is out of wack. Check the link: I think it is the first few photos: Good luck http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=306

I don't have a scanner but I can some really nice pictures if you want.

redrum3433 One time I stripped the splines on my rear wiper arm, the nut that holds the wiper arm on the motor came lose, then wiper arm + lots of snow = stipped spines, maybe yours is doing the same. It would kinda jerk around but didn't have the strength to do a full wipe. If that is not that case you might be looking at a new motor?

I was having a similar problem on my 86 t wagon, I know I know turbo is a whole nother ball of wax, Anyways it turned out to be my pushbuttons control was leaking pressure and everytime I had positive or zero manifold pressure the air would transition from heater (foot) vents to AC (dash) vents. I would say that you have a small vac leak either in the line or in the pushbuttons. Not sure how to test the pushbuttons I just got one from the JY and hoped for the best. Sorry if this doesn't help

I have a complete set for 87, if you need a couple pages I can snap some pictures, ie wireing diagrams ect. Good luck

I had a similar problem on my 86 turbo wagon. really beat my head against the wall trying to find the problem turned out to be a break in the wires right where they transition from the car body to the hatch. But since your washer motor is not responding I say that something is messed up with the switch, unless you have a 3door then I am not sure how those work? Might want to put what year you are working with.

My car had one that the previous owners left on there for 18 years, took 5 min before I ripped it off, I think sit said something about: Your subaru is equipped with a turbo let it cool down a little and don't shut it off while driving down the highway. Might be wrong though. You said that it was one a non turbo car?

130 Kph 80.77825 Mph That is getting up there for a subaru. You should be able to go faster but the car will accelerate really slowly. Might want to clean your carb a little with some carb cleaner?

To disable the Key + Door open chime I unplugged the key switch instead of the chimer, same effect. except the chime comes on when you turn the car to "on" for like 15 sec. But doesn't come on when door open key in. Just in case anyone else is wondering about this. And doesn't want to take out their stereo.

Man I wish I lived in Washington! This is a great thread!

If the ecs light is on then you have a code stored in the computer, go here and learn how to get codes: http://www.pelicanparts.com/MotorCity/turbaroo/ecucodes.html Post back when you get the code. Good luck

I took some digi photos of my factory manual about the EGR light. Edrach is right all you have to do is reverse a plug under your dash, follow the link to some pictures of where the plugs are located and a little behind the scens look at how it all works. I just tor apart my dash and there is acutally a little cam with a refigerator switch that trips after so many miles http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=306

So what type of dash do you have. Something similar happens to my digital dash in my 86 wagon, but my dash jumps around from blidingly bright to pitch black. Don't mean to sound rude but you have tried turning up the display intesity on the headlight switch? If you have what happens? If you hit the intensity switch does it change the brightness? if so I would say switch. If you hit your dash does the lighting change? If so I would say you have a faulty dash. If you have a digital dash it is common for them to just get a mind of their own and go completly nuts. I have taken mine apart and there are about a million solder points on the back, I went over a bunch of these with a soldering iron and it fixed most of my problems for a week then they all came back. Good luck

Belts are of undetermined age they were on the car when I got it. Total age = Previous age + 30K Then have been naked ever since, so 30k naked. Being naked really made diagnosis a sinch, I will continue to streak my T belts because I think it had little to do with them breaking, but I guess there is really no way to know this for sure in my case. Anyways just like to say thanks!!!

Hello

So going to San Jose Ca from Chico Ca got to around Sacromento. Driving along 70 mph all the sudden oil pressure light comes on and power goes, thinking oh *(&% major engine trouble. Push in the clutch and luckly there was an off ramp right there, coast it up the offramp and into a subdivision right next to a street light. Get out thinking the worst check the engine compartment didn't see anything right off, looked under the car to see if I lost a drain plug and notice a timming belt hanging through the hole in the skid plate. Hey thats not right!!! Took me 45 min to fix it luckily I carry both spare timing belts in my car. Man am I glad that I don't have covers on my timing belts. I have to give a thanks to all the people that ask how to do timing belts, because that is what saved me, it had been a long time since I did one and I didn't have my manual, so it was all memory, four easy steps: 1. center line on three line marks on flywheel 2. driver side cam up. install driver side 3. rotate engine clockwise back to centerline on three line marks 4. pass side cam up. install pass side. Started right up and made the trip without a hitch, I think I will get some genuine subaru, and just do them right with the correct torque and such. Thanks!!!! Sorry so long

Make sure the came shaft is in a position so both lifters have zero lift for comparison. Also if you really want to compair them pull out the old ones and compar to the new ones, to me if they are off just a little bit that could be very bad, but I am no expert on the ea-71. You might be able to make up for the long lifters by ajusting your valves out a lot??? Not totaly sure on that might mess up the geometry of the valve?

My brother had a 2.5 downpipe to 2.5 straight pipe to a flowmaster and it spooled rather nicely, but it was a little loud, incase you say wanted to sneek away from your girlfriends house or something unnoticed.

Dude!!!!

monstaru taht is what I was thinking, lot o work and it accually looks good, maybe that is why he has locks on them. Nice job though. He needs to take off all of the side molding to make that aspect look good. Kinda like taking half the bill off of a baseball cap?

You might want to check to see if your high idle valve is working. If it is not then you might have those simptoms. Good luck