Subi81

Might be right about that, I guess it would help to get a better angle.

Dude where did you get your inline pressure gauge, I am looking for one right now.

Same interior as mine, nice score

That looks just like a sambar engine or I guess it could be a 360 engine also but it is sitting in the wrong position, rotate the picture 90 deg counter clock wize and that is how it should sit, basically it lays pretty close to flat with the oil filter at the lowest spot, I think you would have one kickgas golf cart or go cart with that baby!

the other day we had our first rain, doin' 4wd drifts right throught the intersection gets some looks. Didn't even need an ebrake to do a brake stand just pop the clutch in fwd and listen to those tires zing, I think I sat in one place for like 1 min just spining my wheels, it was great. You could really feel when the turbo kicked in, something like this... Pop clutch, no traction, no traction, little traction, little more traction, turbo hits, absofreakin no traction, have to shift, repeat. Anyways I think 30' on dry pavement is ok, it was probably only one wheel in your case so that degrades the coolness factor a little, I guess I need to go out and let mine rip on the dry struff.

Will do thanks

The pulse is like a cycle but it is lopsided kinda like the reflector on a bicycle, ----.----.----. all that within 3 second? if that makes any sense. It just seems that the pump shouldn't pulse, it is a electromagnetic pin roller pump not an electromagnetic plunger pump. The plunger pump should pulse but the pin roller seems to me that it shouldn't. ok maybe it is something else, I will have to get a gauge on it and see what the pressure is.

86 turbo wagon So I am beggining to think that my fuel pump is fubared, if I hold the line after the engine compartment filter I feel a pulse from the fuel pump. Also my engine just runs really rough all the time. if I shut it off, and immediatly start it again it will not idle for at least 3 or 4 min, then it idles just fine?? Is the pulsing normal, and does anyone know where I can get an inline fuel pressure gauge? It think some members have them.

*&%(*^% I knew it wasn't going to be easy. Thanks

Ha HA

just put the old cap and rotor back on and see if that fixes anything. Cap and rotor are pretty straight forward jobs, I can't see how that could get messed up, my money is on the t belts. As for checking them, you might want to take off the outer plastic covers so you can see if the marks are where they are supposed to be, ie one up one down, they have to be exact right on the notch, if one tooth off it is all for not. also check to see if the tension is acceptable, it might have been to lose and skipped on you, I made that mistake once. Good luck

I was just looking through my 87 factory service manuals, they have a diagram of the fuel system, that shows an in tank filter, I am assumeing this is just a screen over the intake but just want to make sure. Has anyone seen this filter and what is the best way to have a look at it. The car is the 86 turbo wagon in sig. It had been sitting for 2 or so years and I just want to make sure there isn't anything blocking my fuel lines.

This should go in the manual, I would hate to see this info get swept under the rug.

Dude when you finish you have to post pics!!!

Good info now I know why my 85 DR tranny doesn't seem as low as my 81 DR tranny, the low gear ratios are different, my 81 is way more torquey and tacks out way earlier than my 85 DR turbo wagon whilist rallying. Awww never mind they are totally different ratios, 3.90--3.70 Awsome info!!

Awsome job I new someone would figure this out, you will make all the ralliers happy!

had the same thing happen to my 81 wagon, turned out that the shifter bushing were completly shot. The base of the stick shift goes into a socket with a tiny donut looking bushing, on my 81 this bushing had completly turned to a sticky blob of plastic, also the bushing that attach the stick to the shift linkage were completly shot too. Replaced 'em all and it was shifting like new!

Could be a termostat problem if the temperature is being effected? maybe someone out a low temp themostat in there?

I think skip has exparemented (s) with this on his turbo wagon

Very very nice, but I have one question, I am taking termodynamics right now and we have just reached the point where we can analyze turbines. after some canceling of terms from the the equation of: energy in = energy out we get Mi*hi=Wo+Mo*ho in Metic units Mi = mass flow rate in (kg/s) hi = Enthalpy of input medium ie. how much energy the input medium carries (J/kg) Mo = mass flow rate out (kg/s) Wo = Work output (goes to the compressor side) (J/s) ho = Enthalpy of output mediium (J/kg) since Mo = Mi we are left with Wo=M(hi-ho) This shows that h (enthalpy) and M (mass flow rate) control Wo (work output) I have noticed that the stock headers are insilated (double walled), this was done to keep the exhaste gasses as hot as possible when they hit the turbo Giving you the highest hi possible. Seems to me that you would want to insilate those headers if you want to make them truly bad***** Don't get me wrong improving the flow out of the engine will of course boost performance but insilating will also get you even more, don't ask me how much, that would take a real Mechanical engineer to work out. Sorry for the math class, it is just really cool to understand why something was done a certain way. Awsome job!

Wow the the teacher has become the student, just kidding. I have the same code comming from my 86 turbo wagon, and I was bafaled by it, but my car starts without a hitch? from the ecucodes website http://www.pelicanparts.com/MotorCity/turbaroo/ecucodes.html 1984 through 1986 Fuel Injected Models: 12 Starter Switch Off 1987 Fuel Injected Models: 12 Starter Switch or Circuit I have taken my starter swich completly apart and cleaned it and checked it to the best of my knowledge, I couldn't find anything wrong with it. I even had the code before I installed my turbo timer. Since I have a manual trans I thought maybe Subaru just uses the same sensor error checking for Auto and manual, but on a manual, that sensor reading doesn't cause a no start conditing but still posts the code? correct me if I am wrong. Maybe your inhibitor switch is messed up, but if that was messed up you would just get an absolute no start not a kinda no start?? On my 81 wagon, I would get a condition similar to yours, turned out to be a messed up positive cable. It got corroded inside the insilation and puffed up to 1.5 inches in diameter, the corrosion turned the copper wire to a packed flower like consistancy and only one wire was carrying all the current, finally it had enough and wouldn't start at all. Sorry if provides absolutly no help at all. Good luck

About the fan, I have two 6.5 inch spal fans on the car in the sig and it cools the tmic down to abient temp while sitting in traffic after like 1 min or so. I don't have my xt scoop ducted to my ic so I think alot of the air just goes around the ic, into the engine bay while at crusing so sometimes I run the fans then too. I highly recommend the fans for setting in traffic. Think about it that scoop is just like a chimmey on a wood stove, and all that air goes right through the ic and out the scoop. I have watched it on cold days you can actually see the heat waves, turn on the fans and no more heat waves. I wired my fans to a switch that goes from "on" to boost sensor activated the boost sensor thing didn't work out because while cruising, the boost sensor would switch "on" "off" like 50 times a sec, basically it would make the relay go buzzzzzzzz, I have heard that relays don't like that so I disabled that and am thinking about going to a speed activated system, ie drop below 30 ic fans come on? Sorry for the long post this just really interests me.

Got a chuckle out of that Northguy.

Interesting.... I like it. different approach but where does the air go after it goes thought the IC? can it make it around the outside of the IC and down through the transmission tunnel? very interesting, I have an Audi 5000 TMIC and it might have fit better with that setup, hmmmmm.

21-25 mpg depending on foot, 25,000 miles on re-ring, rebearing. I am sure I could get it to go to 30 on a nice long hiway trip. This is running Premium I think 91 octane.