Subi81

Ok So I noticed that my rear diff is leaking like a sieve so I decided to do the pinon and side seals. Thought that the seals looked ok, at the counter, got home took off one old seal compared it to the new one ERROR not the same seal, need a second opionon with the ones they gave me work? See pics Sorry this in on the 86 lsd wagon

Finally some other northerners feeling the heat, in Redding, CA it was 106 too. I didn't think it got that hot in OR. Yea just wait till it gets 100 teens, 106 will feel balmy. Good luck

My boost leak story goes as follows, First run with the intercooler I would get a very noticable swishhhhhing noise on boost, didn't have a boost meter to see what the psi was. yesterday I had a intake manifold vaccum come off, absolutly no extra noise but my max boost dropped from 6~7 to 3~4 psi, so I would say check your vaccum lines. Good luck

Ya Check your cap and rotor, somehow the little spring pin in the top of my cap came out, this caused some sevier arcing inside the disty, well it totaly ruined my coil wire. Point is my car started really missing at idle and at crusing, fine under power, or boost, then finally just barely got me home. If your cap was loose you might have had a little air gap in your disty that could create a little heat and in my case melted my cap. bty this is the 86 in my Sig Good luck

Looks great! and probably a lot more functional, thinking out side the box Awsome

Some links to pages about turbo timers http://www.geocities.com/peat_s/tips/Turbo_Timer/ashtray.html http://freespace.virgin.net/hab.m/Timer.htm I am sure there are tons more but this might get you started

I found an interesting factoid when rebuilding my 86 turbo wagon, I had a water pump left over from a botched resurection, of an 87 spfi wagon with AC that I would attempt to use on my turbo wagon. I soon found out that the spfi wagon's water pump was the same in every respect except for the length of the shaft. When i put the 8 bolt pully on from the turbo the belts didn't line up, it stuck out to far. So I had to use the spfi pully which only has 4 studs. those 4 studs hold the whole assembly together. and took up less space between the rad and pump. I am not sure if this helps or not, but if you have a non turbo car I believe that your water pump forces everything more towards the Rad. Everything works fine witht the standard Rad but with the bigger rad it masses everything up. Also my bother converted his 87 turbo wagon to the 2 row with only slight modification to the rad top mount and bottom mount. So there must be something with turbo or xt fans as "86subaru" stated. Sorry for the long post and the ramblings Good luck.

When I connect the green test connectors under the steering column and turn my key to "on" (don't have to start car). The fuel pump relay clicks over and you can hear the pump run, kinda like darth vader breathing, slow ooooooonnnnnnnnn offffffffff, ooooooooooooon, offfffffffffffffffff. repeat. Maybe your relay fried? Bty this is on my 86 turbo wagon.

I vote for getting it up to temp, when I did the HG on my ea-81, coolent shot accrossed half of my garage getting all the bubbles out of it, so just keep your eye on it and let it get up to temp, as long as you don't get oil in your water and water in your oil, you should be ok. If you think it is bad gas the pail o gas would definatly eliminate that problem. Maybe replace the filter. Not sure if fuel injected loyales have the carby preheat water thingy, but that would be another thing to check for coolent getting into the engine. Good luck

Maybe your pump is shot, causeing a lot of drag? Maybe one of your lines got crushed somehow? I ditched my ac and I live in redding, 100+ all summer. I guess you get used to it. Good luck

Toughest problem I ran into is getting the wrist pins out, have to make a tool, I exparemented with taking a really long screwdriver bend the end to have a hook on the end. That didn't have quite the force I needed and everytime I tryed to pull the handle would pull off. Then I got some all-thread and a couple nuts, I think it was 1/4x20 monkyed with that and finllly got them all in/out. About the allen wrench you really DON'T need one you have the tool right on the motor, the really funny big allen bolt that holds the accessory bracket on is the perfect fit. Just put one end in the plug and then get a wrench on the end sticking out, saved me a lot of headake (s) Also some needle nosed plies to put the wrist pin keepers back on. I used the fel-pro lower and upper gasket kit and it had everything I needed. Good luck!!! you won't regret rebuilding it.

Awsome, Glad you got the picks I think its a SUBaru. Just awsome!!!

Jelly man sorry to hear about the rad. Gd that is an awsome idea, but doesn't the ecu need a signal from the alt to run the fuel pump or does it cut the coil?

I hooked mine into the vaccum port for the automatic transmission. It is on the rear of the intake manafold I believe smack dab in the center, if you have a manual tranmission then there will be a plug, take the plug out go to napa or something and match the threads to get the adapter that you need. if it is an auto then you should be able to t into it. Not tataly sure about that way, the auto trans might effect your reading, anybody know for sure?

Thanks that is just what I wanted to know, Kicking myself for not keeping my stripped out but otherwise perfect hub, off to the Junk yard I go.

Some how this got crossthreaded, or over torqued, not sure, can the stud be popped out and replaced or do I need a whole new hub? Thanks.

On my turbo wagaon I have boost, A/F, and Oil P. Boost is really nice because you can stay out of the boost or watch the needle rise, plus you get some added warning if your wastegate goes out. But I think that is a rare occurance. If you are going to even think about rasing the boost this is a must, absolutly. my boost gauge goes from 30 inhg to 20 psi, and seems to be a good range. As far as vac boost or just boost I would stick with the vac boost, because you can tell when you are right on the verg of boost, plus if it is just a boost gauge that is 1 no better than the one on the dash and to a gauge that doesn't even do anything for the majority of the time you are driving the car, unless you are Solberg. A/F, I think this is even better than the boost gauge, you can monitor when you car goes full rich and it really impresses the ladies, ok maybe it doesn't do that but it is fun on a long road trip, endlessly entertaining, I have all of my gauges mounted below my radio, probably not the best place if you are balls to the wall, ie hard to look at and the road at the same time, they are just out of periferral vision. So my a/f doesn't draw any attention. Oil pressure, I put this in because my brother bought it and didn't use it, I thought I would never look at it but I find myself giving it almost equal attention If I had it to do over I think I would put at water temp in insted of an oil pressure, cause my digidash is (*^$#)*&% Sorry to be so wordy Good luck

No prob hope the diagrams work out.

I am partial to the cyclops too, that is just the coolest thing, and I feel that the earlier wagons have that soft but robust look to them, not to knock the new ones, man this is difficult, they are all really good looking in there own right, the boxy ea82's, the wedgy xt's, the smooth legacy's. I give up.

I have an Autometer oil pressure gauge, the gauge goes from 0 psi to 100 psi, 25 psi increments when cold the gauge will read 75psi and drop to 10psi while idleing, (warm). A general rule for oil pressure, that I have heard, you should get 10 psi for ever 1000 rpm so at crusing speed I am right on with rpm 2500 with 25 psi. So the gauge reads to the left of center at crusing. but if you want it to read in the center just drive around at like 5000 rpm. just kidding, I had a vdo vaccum gauge that was pretty good jsut incase you want something other than autometer

Try this one http://www.frontiernet.net/~subi81/ Sorry about that, when i went to check the previous address I think that my Browser automaticaly signed me in because I didn't get the password thing, dam this technology.

Not sure about the newer subs, but my 86 turbo wagon is equipped with two horns one low and one high, I have found that the low horn is kaput, so my wagon sounds pretty weenie too. Somehthing to look into?

Go here ftp://subi81@frontiernet.net/public_html click on either: STA_3542.JPG is BIG tn_STA_3542.jpg is small I attached the photo but it is really really reduced, check the link if you want a larger copy.

Nice job, I like the hood, and the nice touchs like the painted springs, makes it look like a race suspension from a distance, great job!!

Had a similar problem with my 86 turbo wagon. It would idle fine and everything but when I put the pedal down it would cut out and so on so forth. Ended up being the main coil wire was not makeing a solid connection with the disty cap. and basicaly fried out the connector. worth takeing a look at it.