Subi81

Dash is a little different on an 81 just posting for the heck of it.

Glad you got yours working, finally got mine working, as far as I can tell it was both something in the relay module and the motor location contacts were buggered up and not giving constant contact. I'll get a picture of the dash light when I get that working. Cleaned the contacts and replaced the relay module with a good one and it works flawlessly now. 6625 is how BAD contacts look, noticed green light is blinking on and off randomly. 6626 is how GOOD contacts look, noticed green light only turns off when it reaches door open or door closed position and makes contact in all other places. 6633 is a video of the passing light in action with no grill. Picture is of bad contacts I think the problem is mostly the far left contact, the grease looks like it took some heat and created come sort of Chernobly that hindered current flow.

Well I am stumped, battery voltage directly to the relay thru pin #8 and #9 resulted in only the light turning on. Some more pictures for your viewing pleasure. Took a 2nd passing light assembly apart to see how the door open closed switch works, since i think this might be messed up on my unit picture shown is my backup passing light assembly that has a fubared motor. Mitsubishi should be Mitsuba

What I did is check each component by itself working from the motor back to the switch, then from the switch towards the motor, I think I found my issue, it's a shorted green/white wire from the switch to the relay, this is the wire that tells the relay to do it's business and lights the dash light. I should have known when I push the switch all the lights go a little bit dimmer indicating a big draw but the passing light doesn't come on. I will attempt to jump this wire to battery to see if the light cycles. The colors in the manual are not the same as on my 81 Subaru, so the numbers are probably more useful, plug is oriented as so at the motor connector looking towards the motor as shown in the picture. 642 531 First I unplugged the light/motor connector it's a 6 pin connector located between the battery and the passenger headlight. If you jump battery voltage from the center black pin #3 (negative) to the red wire #6 (positive), you can get the motor to cycle continuously. This will allow you to check and see if: The motor works The light cover moves freely The switch in the motor works, by checking continuity between pins 4,2,5, basically continuity should switch between continuity and no continuity as the door opens and closes. The light can be checked by jumping negative to #3 and positive to pin #1 Then I moved to the relay, on my car it's a largish black plastic Mitsubishi relay located on the farthest passenger side just in front of the shock tower but before the coil. I repeated all those steps on the wiring from the relay to the motor to check that the wires from the relay to the motor yielded the correct results, i.e. motor turned etc, the relay has the #'s printed on it so it makes it easy to identify the correct circuit. Disassembled the relay and checked for obvious failure in a capacitor or resister or solider joint. Reassembled and checked for continuity on the relay, #8 should go to #1,#2,#3,#6 but 3 will just give you a beep due to the capacitor. #9 should go to #5,#4,#3 with #4 and #3 just giving you a beep. #9 should have battery power all the time #8 should only have battery power when the switch is turned on and should not be shorted to ground or should have high resistance to ground since it could ground thru the dash indicator light or the passing lamp indicator light. Video of cover moving located here, this is battery voltage straight to cover motor.

Working on getting my passing light working too, maybe these can help you out, the black box relay looks like a frig electrical maze. Pictures are from a 81 factory manual I can scan them if you need better quality. Funny looked at the main wiring diagram nothing mentioned about the passing light, maybe it was an afterthought. Good luck

1981 wagon been sitting since ~2003 (so 16+ years) before and after. Started getting real bad lichen on the shady side. Getting it back into commuting shape. Parts going to powdercoat and coming back. Letting cars sit for so long just absolutely kills them.

Herb green funny I didn't think anyone would comment on the color and yes it is my favorite too. In case you were wondering the car was in a front end collision before I owned it and best I can tell they did a blend from the front to the rear, thus the hood and front fenders are missmatched.

Thanks for the replies, I am under no dilusions of gradure, it's totaled. The puddle is actaully some ATF I had in the rear cargo compartment. I have a couple items I need to get out of there but will need to break out the torch/sawsall to get to them. The seat has a permanet gangsta lean now, tried to tilt it forward yesterday, all the prawls are shaved off or something internal is broken so that is where it will stay. The trashed brat is really a shame, looks like a really nice specimine. Attached picture is how I will remember it.

Been off the board for a number of years, but still into subarus, figgured I would post some said news. Good news is this will motivate me to get my first subaru (81 wagon) running and daily driving again. Haven't figgured out what to do about the damaged car, it's totaled (in my opinon) but has a lot of cool parts on it, you guys will be the first to know, but it will probably be a while till I get an answer from the insurance company. Story goes, skip this is you don't like reading first hand accounts just read the last couple lines of the post. I was stopped due to the 4 lane highway merging down to 2 lanes, it always backs up there every night around quitin time Anyways there was a big gap in traffic behind me because I let all these rat racers just go on by, I had just come to a stop at the end of a line of 50 cars, when I noticed a set of headlights comming up fast behind me, I tapped my brakes to flash my brake lights they didn't seem to notice, luckily at the last second they swerved but nailed the passenger/rear of my car. I think they were doing 65 or 55 mph when they hit me. I almost did a 360, and ended up on the left side of the road luckily out of traffic. I immediately got out of the car, and within 10 seconds there was another crash as another car got nailed. Subi was still running so I tried to back it further off the road but only made it a foot then it died and I couldn't restart it. Luckily I didn't hit the car in front of me, because he heard the noise and floored it, I must have missed him by inches. He was nice pulled over and called CHP gave a statement that we were all just parked in a long line of cars etc etc. I was a little flustered after the accident and subsequent second accident that I was unable to identify the car that hit me with certainty, it was really dark and before they hit me all I saw was a vehicle with headlights and fog lights coming up fast behind me. Apparently they were able to drive down the road a little to get away from the carnage, I was unable to actually locate them and never talked to them but the Sheriffs found them and they are on the report, they have insurance so we will see how it goes. I don't remember them asking if I was ok as they drove away, I just remembered a bent up silver'ish pickup driving away after hitting another car. So initially I told the officer it was a hit and run, since I didn't see where they went and they made no effort to see if I, the person they ran into was ok. Anyway I am fine just a stiff neck, whiplash (doctor speak Cervial Strain), X-rays looked clean and neck is getting better everyday. 3rd day my neck felt like it ran a marathon. Anyways #2 wherever I pointed this car it took me there, community collage, collage, skiing, mt biking, new jobs, old jobs, old friends, new friends, someone called it the adventuremobile and it truly was, it will be missed, but I am alive because it was there for me. Take care out there.

Junkie, will do. zukiru Intercooler was out of an Audi 5000. Made into a top mount, hard piping with a blocked off Volvo by pass valve (IC was installed in a hurry for testing). The runs were done with the hood up and the intercooler fans on. IC Fans are two Spal 6.5 pull fans mounted on the bottom of the IC. In the excitement of the runs I didn't get any quantitative data on IC inlet/outlet temps but the inlet defiantly got hot enough to be uncomfortable to hold, outlet just got warm. If I had a fan blowing ambient air onto the IC I am sure the runs would have been more consistent, and true to real life road going, but eh I had my car bolted to a gigantic machine inside a shop doing 95mph, so it might be moot anyways? Max output none intercooled: SAE HP = 77.2 SAE Tq = 107.4 Max output intercooled: SAE HP = 81.3 SAE Tq = 119.7 So just looking at the numbers the IC added 4.1 HP and 12.3ft-lbs Mind you that doesn't sound like much but that is at the same boost pressure, roughly 6 psi. Pics of the setup will follow.

Dyno was indeed a Superflow, but I think its the eddy current type, trust me the subi didn't seem to stress it much, and it has way more capabilities than my needs. I will work on getting the e-mails out ASAP The best way to look at the data is to download the viewer, I will include the .sfd files and a link to their site. Nope haven't run the Legacy yet, the dyno is 2wd only so I would have to figure a way around that, btw the Legacy's been running like a top. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Edit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I did the latest graphs in STP format instead of SAE (original graph), I am not sure what the exact difference is but if you look at the data with the viewer you can toggle between the two.

Hey, Always wanted to post one of these, finally had the chance to get a dyno done. Sorry for the reduced size if anyone is collecting these things I can e-mail the original, along with the other runs I did (4 total) Stuff about the car, 1986 gl-10 wagon. 200 miles on rebuild, bearings, rings, pistons, rattly cats, exhaust all original. The test was performed in 4th gear on a 85/86 RX dual range transmission (not AWD) boost gauge showed 6psi during all runs. Second higher HP/Trq run was performed with intercooler installed, to show the effect. I plotted the AF at 10x so it could be readable.

Thanks for the pics, I have always wanted to mount a pushbar to my Ea-82 wagon. Pretty much you have to hack up the bar to make it fit. I am curious how the previous owner did it. Does the bar mount to the 4 bolts that hold the engine crossmember in? From the pictures it looks like the bar has been chopped at the radiator area.

I had a crank ground .010 under on the mains and con rods. Went to put it together and the center thrust bearing doesn't fit into the crank. Should the machine shop have ground the thrust bearings surfaces the same amount as the radial bearing surfaces, or are my bearings suspect.

Thanks, Quidam Here is their catalog page: http://www.itmengine.com/catalog.html and the direct link to their catalog see page 56 in adobe or page 557 in lower right corner http://www.itmengine.com/WebBuyersGuide2007.pdf Part numbers for pistons are: Carb - RY6527 They mention different years and different CR under the same part number? SPFI - RY6527 = same as Carb MPFI - RY6527 = same as Carb and SPFI Turbo - RY6530 = 7.7:1 x 92mm MY 85-90 Looks like they have Turbo pistons listed on Ebay at standard oversize and +.020. Seriously Quidam you just saved me $300. Still kicking myself for not finding these on my own and all it took was _piston EA82_ in search bar.... tarded.

I am in the same boat but need .020 over. I got a quote from Paeco (http://www.paeco.com/) for forged pistons .020 over but I don't want to drop that much money on an engine that I just want to pass smog with. See below for their response to my question: " Thanks for your email. A set of forged pistons (we haven't made cast pistons in over twenty years) is $420 in standard bore and stock compression ratio. Add $40 for any overbore size and add $40 for any non-stock compression ratio. We do have the patterns for EA-82 pistons. Chrome-moly wristpins are $160 for the set and the Deves racing piston rings are $104/set. Pinlocks are included with the pistons. Forged chrome-moly connecting rods are $290 per rod in a set of four. We do not have a pattern for the EA-82 rods, so you would have to send us a stock rod to use as a pattern. All of the details on both the pistons and rods are on our website at http://www.paeco.com. Please let us know if we can help you. - Carl at PAECO (205) 823-7278 " I am looking for some cast .020 over pistons at this time just to get the engine back together, and running. Good luck

Found these in a book about AWD. Has some different B&W rally pics.

Thanks for the info! Exactly what I was looking for too. If they are quoting $190 that is a steal, I think I paid $145 for some napa insta clutch smoke in a box stuff.

Not sure if it helps in your case but I mushroomed one end of roll pin inside the doj. Ended up pounding it IN as far as it would go then cut off the end sticking out then punched it back in so it was in the center and the joint slid right off. Good luck, I think we have all been there.

Sorry to hyjack but what the heck animal makes those squiggly lines. Not a slug, not ants, not bee's then what? Pill bugs? I found an old stop light laying on the ground and it had those same marks all over it. Anyways sorry for the hyjack. Ok so the post is not a total waste here is my neglect: (Not actually mine just saw it on the side of the road in the Sierra's) I thoroughly enjoyed observing everyones neglect bty.

I had a similar problem on my 86. The bolts get coolant into them and rust. When the bolts rust they expand filling the thru holes in the manifold. I was lucky and only had one inner bolt rust up. When I tried to remove the bolt the bolt head broke off. I was able to remove the intake buy leveraging the part that was free that is way the bolt is bent in the pictures. Eventually the rusty bolt gave up and I was able to pull the manifold off. Then I had like 4 inches of bolt sticking out of the head. The (*&&%$ bolt The bar we bent attempting to pry the manifold off Good luck

I don't know about the UAFC, just not a big fan of piggy backing (thats just me though), but this sounds more scientific then the get bigger injectors and "tweak" the flapper spring. The Wideband O2 sensor setup looks pretty interesting always wanted one. If it works as good as he says you could save ~ $200. But the real question is what is NAW? Next Another Wideband? New Another Wideband I kinda like DIY electronics kits, fun to make then debug because you soldered something wrong. For $60 to $90 I say go for it!!! Let the results speak for themselves. Thanks for the link!

1.75" OD tubing works nicely. Don't forget to think about how you are going to attach the core to the car. I think a lot of people focus most of their energy on getting the tubing routed efficiently that they over look the mounting aspect of the project. Good luck!

Moving a bed. Moving to college: My new/used burr king not heavy but very bulky I think there was 2 engines a transmission, 200lbs of lead, oh and 2 bikes. Made the front end so light had to 4wd it up a steep part of a dirt road. Moving while in college

I have an 85 factory subaru manual, I took a pic of the flow chart for code 64. I took a couple other pics of the wiring diagrams but for some reason the album will not let me upload them? I will try later. click on the picture for a bigger version. Good luck.