Subi81

I have been thinking about doing the butterfly cutout. How does it seal. What brand do you have? Is it electric or mechanical? How long have you had it on. Sorry for all the q's.

Sorry I missed you. Hope you got everything back in order.

I live over the hill in Oxnard.

Ya it was fun! Pics I took: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=1060

I might be able to lend a hand but have to work up till noon. What JY are you going to?

Hey, I might show up depending on how long it takes to learn skydiving and jump out of a perfectly functional airplane. I will give you a call if I go.

Glad to see it in good hands. Good luck! Edit Sorry this is old news man I have not been keeping up

My 86 t wagon does the same thing. Kinda feels like the clutch grabs then lets go then grabs then lets go etc. all the way up to 3400 rpm. I have an Air/fuel ratio gauge on my car and the surges are timed exactly to the air/fuel ratio. Lean = not so much power, rich=power. After watching this for 3 years this is what I think is going on: Anything below 3400 rpm the ecu will try to achieve a stoiciometric mixture thus the fuel ratio bounces back and forth between rich/lean giving the power/no power situation. After 3400 rpm the system goes into a power mode and just throws a bunch of fuel at the engine, thus smooth power. I have just learned to live with it. A new O2 sensor will respond to a change in the fuel ratio faster and will lessen the surges but not completly eliminate them. Good luck

Think about the forces involved. This is shooting from the hip. If you have vaccum on one side of a diaphram then atmospheric pressure is on the other side multiply this pressure by the area of the diaphram and you have force. Soooooo 14.7psi * Pi r^2 where r is the radius of the diaphram roughly 2" (from memory) and Pi is 3.14 You get 180 lbs. So next time you want to shift you car into 4wd just stand on the lever that is assuming you wieght 180 lbs. Just realized that you are talking about the diff locker I think those diaphrams are smaller so these numbers might not be correct. Lets look at the torque. I am estimating the lever is 3 inches long so max torque produced by vaccum silinoid is f*d=Torque f=180lbs d=3" T=45 ft*lbs Torque in N-m= 61 N-m (so the silinoid theoreticaly produces more torque than you measured) Sorry for the long winded post and I didn't even answer your question, all my manuals are boxed up. sorry

called "Herb" or "Harb" green can't remember which wheels no wheels loaded down

Yes it is possible. I did it so it can't be that hard. Good bookeeping and a little bit of time will get the job done. Go here for some pics of my install http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=626 Basically my approach was to create my own harness that addapts an analog dash to work in place of a digital dash. Go here for my post on it: The search function is your friend http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24763 Good luck and feel free to ask any questions.

This might explain my funky idle and a distributor that just won't line up (car runs ok though). Thanks WJM for the research and attention to detail!!!

Only slightly visible from space. To bad you can't see the look on the helicopter pilots face.

Left my sunroof open and it of course it rained cats and dogs. Did the space heater thing and it worked pretty well. If this is just a persistance occurance and the carpet is dry check your vapor barriers. They are the plastic sheets behind the door covers. Basically they keep any mosture that falls through the window felts from getting into the interier of the car.

Usually I jack at the engine crossmember where the skidplate bolts to.

Here are some pics from the MY 1990 manual should be similar: (click to get a bigger pic)

GD is right I have verified the effect with my AF gauge. Coasting downhill = zero fuel injected.

After I broke 2 of them the same why you broke yours I found that one out of a honda works. Located in the engine compartment inside the black box with all the vaccum hoses going to it. Or just Look around the junk yard for silinoid valves with similar charactoristics.

removed post. You posted solution while I was posting my response

You don't have to drop the diff on stock ride hieght loyals. Just take out the lower shock mount bolt. I had to really push down on the drivers side rear wheel (with my leg) to get the axle to slide off the splines but with a friend it is a piece of cake. Beats the heck out of dropping the diff. For some reason the drivers side is always the harder one. Good luck

my brother lost a wheel at 55 mph. The lower control ball joint takes the brunt of the asphalt and will grind the nut right off. If this is the case I would get it fixed asap!

I was having a problem with my ecu connections make sure they are connected. Also check the fusable links in the engine compartment. Electrical problems are fun!!! Good luck

Just noticed the antlers on top, that pic never gets old

Looking back at my notes I have analog #4 (speed pulse out) connected to Digi #13 (speed pulse). The analog dash came out of an 88 RX so I think superdave may have a valid point. You might have to run your own wire? from the speed pulser in the dash to the computer.

I had to run a wire from the oil pressre sender all the way to the gauge. I think I used connector spot # 10 on the digital harness. But any empty slot will work. Good luck, If you need anymore info post, I will keep a lookout for this post.