Subi81

Found the same thing on a $70 SPFI EA-82 got it to run but it wasn't pretty smoked like a SOB!!

same thing happend to my 81. Eventually the needle broke off. Not sure if you know how a speedometer works. But there is a magnet attached to the end of the speedometer inside the dash and a metal cup that is mounted very close to this magnet this cup is also connected to the gauge needle. When the speedometer cable turns fast it makes the metal cup want to turn by the force of an eddy current in the magnetic field. A spring opposes this force so the needle doesn't spin freely. So what happens is as you can guess the tolerance between the magnet and the cup is very small. After about 1 Zillion rotations the support bearing gets a little worn and then the magnet can contact metal cup and presto lotsa noise and your subi is doing 85mph. I fixed mine by getting a new dash out of the junk yard but eventually it did it too. Another option is to just disconnect the speedo cable untill you find a suitable replacement. Just reach up behind the dash and pull it out. Sorry for the long winded post.

Depends, what year the RX transmisson is out of. I have an 85 RX transmission that does NOT have a center diff. This transmission is the same as any dual range turbo wagon transmission ie Fwd until you pull the 4wd lever then the front and rear are locked together (whatever speed the front is spining the rear is spinning as well). Transmissions are the same minus low range ratios (RX are taller) Later RX's have a "full time" 4wd system with a third diff in the center. This diff allows unequal wheel speed to occure front to back thus allowing operation on pavement. Torque is directed to the wheel that spins easiest thus the one wheel burnout is possible. Since you state that the transmission in question has the diff switch you have a later model RX trans so your friend is confused. Here is a power diagram:

Hey, Thanks for the excelent post I am having the same problem and thought it might be the window motor. I guess I will have to look into replacing the relay's instead. Thanks

I seem to recall that in order to use the spider intake you have to flip the full throttle wire and the idle wire. So as your car stands now when it is idleing the computer thinks "Oh full throttle" When you floor it, computer thinks "I am idleing" Might want to search for it. Good luck

What about keeping the single range shifter with the button on the top and wireing the diff lock to that button, you will get a clean install and still keep the James Bond button. All you have to do is drill a hole in the stick shift. I know it is not ideal just a thought

At least yours stayed with the car. Mine self distructed going 55 and shot right out the front of the car. Here I drew a picture:

I would look at your fusible link and maybe the wires to your coil. Fusible link should be near the pos battery terminal. Had mine die on me and nothing on the car would work.

Awsome!!!

81 wagon - yellow 81 wagon - blue 86 wagon - harb green 87 wagon - dark grey 88 wagon - dark green/blue

what year? There are two types of ecu for the ea82T.

Alex C thanks for that tip, I have been using the silver and experiancing missfireing. I will have to look into that next time I do my plugs. I agree with the antiseize use it on any fastener connected to the aluminum block

Curious did the XT motor have the spider intake, or the regular one. I saw a turbo xt and got all excited only to find out that it had the regular intake? How will the smog people react if it IS a spider intake? Good luck with the new motor.

Thanks for posting that!!

You can do dual fuel and nitrous injection though the same port. This particular picture shows that it doesn't even need an injector bung.

I kinda want to do that exact same thing with my digi dash. I think it would look cool just flashing away or reving etc. Nothing like 80's technology.

Talking about wierd symbols in the "Teltale graphic" check out this one. From an 89 RX. Look at the lower Left corner for the hazard symbol. And there is a pic of the corresponding pcb board. Sorry it a fuzzy pic

That is f'ed up thanks for posting it.

Looks like fun. lol

They are both 3.7. Trans and diff were taken from an 85-86 RX sedan.

Thanks for the reply I will have to look at the bushings. Happy Holidays

Ok, Sorry it took so long to respond The car is in Fwd when this happens. I have tried it in 4wd and the sound seems to get a little worse. The reason I messed with the pinoin was to replace the leaking front seal. You have to take off the drivline flange mount to get to the frount seal. Will try to grease them after christmas. Here is a pic of the gear oil. I did not put the additive in because I thought this gear oil was good to go out of the box. Let me know if I am wrong. I tried to get Genuine subaru and no dice

SO my lsd is not happy. Symtoms: Diff temp = cold no problem Driving on highway for more then 10 min results in a weird binding upon deseleration to a stop. The the diff becomes hard to turn then easy hard to turn then easy. Rear tires are brand new so I think the lsd function has little to do with the problem. History: Junk yard diff installed on my car about 2 years ago. Used the diff for about 1 year then noticed seals were leaking real bad. Replaced all seals on the differential and replaced gear oil. Didn't have the spring balance to check the resistance to turning like manual said so I guesstimated at the preload on the pinion nut. Now almost 6 months after I replaced the seals I am getting this binding problem. Replaced the diff with another junk yard LSD unit and all problems went away. So something is defatly wrong with this one. See pics below. So my question is: what is my next coarse of action. Put grease on the teeth and see if the mesh is all messed up or is my pinion preload to tight or to loose? Thanks

If your car is a mid to early 80's these valves regulate the amount of air that is mixed with the fuel before it is fed to the carb venturi. Basically they are the muscles of the feed back system. The ecm being the brains. If these valves haven't working you could have been running rich.

Ok, Sorry to drag up an old thread but I have having the same problem. My altinator was know to be bad, charging to 18 volts when cold outside. Long story short changed the altinator and no more cutting out. Repeat!!!! changed the altinator and problem solved!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I guess the ecu doesn't like fluctuations in the voltage at all. Change your altinator!!!!!!!