Subi81

So it was a bad battery?

Nice it is amazing what those joints can endure. My brothers was makeing a horible noise. Took it apart, all the balls where square. Go figgure

Not sure if a high fluid level would cause it to not shift. I just remember that I was having a similar problem on my 4sd dual range. When it was cold out I couldn't get it to go into 2nd at all. Like there was a brick wall in my transmission. It wouldn't go at all. Changed the fluid to Synthetic Redline MTL and problem solved. Not sure if you can find MTL in Norway. MTL stands for Manual Tranmission Lube. Here is a website: navigate to gear oil then to maual tranmission oil http://www.redlineoil.com/ http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/redline4.htm Good luck

Nice!! Is that a one-wheel burnout? That sounds a LOT better then my brothers 87 gl-10T (2.5 with a cheap knockoff flowmaster). Thanks for the video. Makes me want to go out and do some pavment abuse!!

aye! that be the Single port fuel injector holder. Do I get anything for 3rd place?

Try and get some video of it cranking back to life. Good luck

Here is a pic of the shift linkage disconnected from the transmission/car. I was replacing my shifter bushings and found that the bushing closest to the transmission was completly gone but I didn't experiance the problem that you are describing. So check the other bushings closer to the stickshift. So I would say that you either have something shoved up in there or something strange is going on with your transmission. Not to scare you but I experianced the same thing with my 81 4wd 4speed. Wouldn't shift into 3rd gear. Check oil and there was zero. Opened drain plug and all I got was gear teeth. So check your oil. Missing some teeth Good luck

That is exactly what I want to know. The pressures on that iron sleave have to be sooooo great. The aluminum around it literaly is trying to crush the sleaves how did it rotate? Does the earth revolve around your cylinder sleave?

When I took mine out you have to slide it forward quite a bit to get it off of those studs and the transmission splines but it will come out. try getting a 2x4 or something on the head and pry forward. You did unbolt the engine mounts right?

about the valve guides. When you take your heads to the machine shop ask them about it. That seems really weird that they are different hieghts. It almost looks like the retainer on the top of the valve stem was hitting the valve guide seal? Maybe your valve guide is starting to slip? Good luck Definatly clear up the threads on the block and the head bolts! If they are gunked up you will get the wrong torque after you put the heads on.

That big of an improvement on MPG DAM!!!

From the dealer window sticker 1986 GL-10 wagon 5 sp S/R 4wd power everything $12,606 base With special paint metalic avicado green = special? thermo guard fabric guard sound guard custom alloy wheel roof rack black cassette deck deluxe luxus carpet brn brings total to $14,336

Where exactly is this nut located I always have a full size spare in the back and it would be nice to secure it down.

WTF is up with their camera? I only found like 2 pics that were in focus, and I didn't see an RX

Mounted mine down in the little cubby. In hindsight I think this is not the optimal placement if you really want to drive and look at your gauges at the same time.

The thermovalve on my 86 t wagon is in charge of the vacuum advance more than anything. There is a seperate vacuum silinoid that is responsible for egr function. Not sure what your car is (mpfi, spfi, carb, or turbo) Different models have different use for the device. Here is a schematic for a carb (cal) car I ended up getting the valve from the dealership for a lot more than $6

It could be that the tread is delaminating from the base of the tire. I agree with ShawnW take it to a tire shop and ask them what the hey is going on.

Make sure that the coolent temp sensor wire is on correctly. Check to make sure that you installed the Idle Air Control tube. Double check your ignition wires. Check your throttle position sensor for the closed signal when the throttle plate is closed.

I replaced all three seals on my rear diff. I ended up dropping the whole differential to get the seals out. But I think if you are just doing the front one you could leave it on the car. I think drivshafts are balanced to themselves so there should be no problem with balance issues. The Factory Service manual states that you only need to mark orientation if disconnecting the Driveline at the middle. I know that when I disconnected my driveshaft from the rear diff I didn't note orientation or anything. If you want to put it back where it came just mark it, or stick it in 4wd so the drivshaft doesn't turn while it is disconnected. Good luck

This car has a feedback carb right? Computer under the steering wheel? If so here is a picture from the 85 Factory Manual. I know it is a pain to figgure out but maybe it can help you. Good luck

Ok, ignore the differental and the driveline and this is what you should have under there. So what part is broken. Whoever took this picture is a geneius (s)! Thanks

I got a complete kit form felpro at a local automotive shop.

Ummm. not sure about that Caboobaroo I have ONLY seen one GL-10 that had the tab mounts for the rear sway bar. If you have the mounting tabs then yes it is a direct bolt on. I had to take off the rear passenger tire to get my bar on though. Since I didn't have the mounting tabs I had to use the trailing arms from an RX. The only other way is to weld the tabs on. I totally agree the sway bar will make it handle better. Less body roll.

Ya lots of things can make that noise. Might want to check your accessory belts. Altinator bearings If you have AC check the idler pully bearing. Its the really small one mounted lower down on the engine.

Not sure if 87 hitachi's are the same as 81 hitachi's but check your anti diesel valve for operation. This has been known to go out and cause some idle/starting/driving problems. The valve is an out of place looking haxagonal electricle valve sticking out of your carb at a 45 deg angle to the front of the car. It has one wire comeing out of it. When this wire is touched to pos the valve will open allowing fuel in (should click). Usually they get stuck in the closed position and your car doesn't get any fuel. Good luck