Subi81

Have you checked the choke linkage? That would be my first stop. Get a vaccume fitting diagram and make sure they are all hooked up right. Good luck

Yes bronze would be nice. But even with the factory bushings you will experiance shifting nirvana. I have replaced a couple of sets of these and it is well worth the trouble.

I am going through the repair of the sifter bushings right now. About the stick not bouncing back, your return spring probably just fell of. That is pretty easy to replace. #18 in the photo Just go to a junk yard with some pliers crawl under any manual, loyal body style with some needle nose pliers and yank the spring. It is located right at the rear of the transmission The bushings are a little more involved. I replaced all of mine but found that the only one that was messed up was #26. After years of shifting there was hardly anything left (see pic below). This is a schematic of the shifting mechanism. Here are some pics from the teardown. Be sure to check your inner "black" shifter boot for tears. Mine had the whole top tore off. Your boot will look different because you have single range. Remember that there is a pin that holds the shifter knob to the shift lever that you have to pound out. This shows what was left of the #26 bushing, ya it was pretty much doing nothing. This shows the linkage out of my car so I could remember how to put it all back together. As far as prices go I would go under the car and look and see what bushing is blown out. Replacing all the bushings and steel inserts was about $40-50. If you could get away with just replacing #26 and the bolt will cost you $9. Pounding out the roll pin at the transmission is a pain. The roll pin is actually 2 pins, a small pin inside a larger pin. Just pound out the small one first then pound out the big one. Good luck and feel free to ask anymore questions

I was able to find some vaccume silinoid valves that did the trick froma honda. Look for 198?'s with like tons of vaccum lines in the engine compartment going to a black box the size of a 32oz bottle. Open the compartment and look for little orange and yellow valves these should work. For the egr silinoid. You are on your own for the purge control. Good luck

Ya it is a pain in the A$$. I think lots of solvent and bottle brushes did the trick for me. Pressure washer would be great but all the stuff that comes out is nasty! Good luck!

Looking at the picture The one to the right is egr silinoid valve to the left is the Purge control silenoid valve

Ya happened to me too but not that extreme. I think I drove on it for like 3 days without the center contact. It would accelerate but wouldn't idle/cruise?

Ya congrats, glad to hear that you got it running!

To the people that converted how did you go about it. ie 1. discharge/flush system at local ac place 2. go home and switch seals 3. recharge system 4. check for leaks 5. enjoy cool air. Reason I am asking is. My 86 wagon sat in a field for years, developed a leak. Leaked out all of its refrigerent. Then I bought it. Had to remove the evaporator because mice build a nest around/ in it. Is there anyway that I can do some leak detection at home before I waste a whole conversion kit? Thanks

That is exatly what I am talking about scare the passenger!

I agree timming. I was having a similar problem turned out my timming was advanced by a couple degress. Pushed timming back to where it was supposed to be and not a single ping (89) octane. If you cannot get your timming to where it is supposed to be you may have the distributor off a tooth. That is what happened to me. So give your timming a good once over. Good luck

Water will probably not get off the hard carbon deposits. I think some manual cleaning will be needed.

Car looks great but polish up those rims man. Every time I see your car it looks sooooo good then I see the rims and they are just covered in brake dust. Are you using a really dusty pad. Curiosity is just killing me.

Well I am with you guys I can't stand understeer. Thanks for the replies

where exataly did you have it installed? My idea is to take an xt header and use the O2 port on the drivers side to mount the thermocouple. Not sure what the threads are I guess I will have to see if they are compatible. I think you just established the normal EGT.

Ya stripped hubs happen, my brother did the same thing to his 81 wagon. Just check your axle nuts every once and a while and you shouldn't ever have that problem again.

So does the rear end want to step out, or is it pretty nuetral?

When I got it from the junk yard it didn't look that much bigger. smaller one is 16mm (sedan RX) larger one is 20mm (4wd XT). Definatly makes the car more tail happy at high speed can't really tell if it changed anything at low speed. Has anyone messed with xt6 front bars on a wagon? I think I might have to much stiffness in the rear now.

I agree with you good choice on the WRX wheelies! Looks like it corners pretty good too.

Sweet pics!

From the 86 Factory manual the distributor is a "photo electric crank angle sensor type" To access any of the photo stuff (ignition modual) you would have to remove a metal shield inside of the distributor. Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words here is what the distributor should look like if it is an 86 spfi... if you are putting a distributor that doesn't look like the photos then something isn't right. Here are the wireing schematics for 86 spfi cars (I made the picture big so you can see the letters) Let me know if you need anything else.

Wow I am surprised the owner hasn't come forward? Bump?

Here is what a power honed block looks like minus pistons. I agree with NorthWet if the machine shop said they did the hone, then you shouldn't have to do anything else. Good luck

FSM says resistance should be between 2-3 ohms

Sorry not going to be able to go