Subi81

Direct from the 1986 Factory Service Manual (FSM) MPFI = 94HP at 5,200RPM and 101ft-lb at 2,800 Turbo = 111HP at 4,800RPM and 133ft-lb at 2,800 Carb = 82HP at 4,800RPM and 101ft-lb at 2,800 So you are up about 44 HP on the peoples motor. Hope this helps

My first guess would be to test the fan thermoswitch. Located on the Radiator passenger side. It will have two wires going to it. Disconnect the wires from the sensor. Turn the key to ON. Connect the two wires together (with a jumper wire). If the Fan turns on then the thermosensor is dead. If you don't want to mess with the sensor then you can just hard wire the two wires together and run the fan 100% of the time. Just be sure to use a large wire to handle the current.

Here are some pics If you were at the rally and I didn't post your pic let me know and I will see if I have a picture of your car. If you go to my gallery I didn't post all of the pics that I uploaded take a look there first here

So just got back from the RallyCross, will post pics within the hour. Not sure if you were there or not RallyRuss, I didn't see any other Gl-10's and didn't feel like being a wierdo and asking everyone if they were RallyRuss. Met NuclearBacon, sorry if we didn't have a lot of time to talk, if you have anymore Q's just drop me a line. Always glad to help, so do you think that you will get your car back together in time for the rallyschool, I think I might go and just watch all you noobs. Just kidding, Hell I would be there too, funds premitting.

Might be able to swing that. I'll let you know Monday. Where is this 2 for 1 ticket?

Hey, I am going to be there too, if you see anybody gawking at your GL-10 that will be me. I think I will just watch this time. Do you know if there are stands to sit in?

Sorry yea I replaced my O2 sensor with little effect. Took off tested and cleaned my EGR but didn't check the tube going to the exhaust pipe, for flow. Guess I will have to check out my intake boot. I have to agree with you I think the miss is here to stay.

make sure it is not the hose under the intake manifold, it could be leaking there then running into the sparkplug hole and out through the covers? Just a thought. Good luck

I have a similar problem. I have checked and changed lots of stuff; You might want to check your thermovacuum valve. I have found mine to be defective and everyone that I got from the junkyard too. Here is a pic of what it looks like here's how to test, plug the port closest to the brass part of valve blow air into either other port air should pass if valve is below 113 deg F air should NOT pass if valve is above 131 deg F Remove plug then plug port on the end opposite the brass part blow air into either other port air should pass if valve is above 68 deg F air should NOT pass if valve is below 50 deg F cap vacuum advance mine was broken, had it rebuilt by: http://www.philbingroup.com/rebuilt/special_services.htm Ours is the Vacuum advance-single $25.00 rotor wire plugs fuel filter checked fuel pressure air flow meter computer timing distribultor temp sensor timing belts looked for vacuum leaks And I still haven't found the problem. My car misses so bad that I failed my emmisions test at the 2500 range. At idle I was within spec though, but I feel your pain about misfires. I am about to give up and take it to subaru and let them figure it out, with thei fancy dancy machines, tell me what is wrong and let me fix it. I just found this site that I think might make you feel better: http://www.parttrackers.com/library/1/117/122/ "On '85 and '86 turbos, the computer is a little lean, and you get surging problems. What we do is retard the ignition timing two degrees, which eliminates the action of the knock sensor. It helps. Putting resistance in the coolant temperature wire makes very little difference, not like on a Z-Car, for instance." Sorry if this is not much help. But know that there are other people out there with the same problem. So where was your one vac leak that you fixed? Good luck, While researching this problem I have found that finding a misfire is one of the hardest things to track down.

Thanks

So I am trying to find out why my car has a rondom miss and TOD. Took off the valve covers and looked at the cam and HLA's. Is this what a flat cam MIGHT look like, I don't have a micrometer or caliper to measure it properly. So if this is what a flat cam looks like I will get one and measure it, to be absolutly sure. Also I noticed that I have some pitting right around the oil hole. Does anyone know what could have caused this? I am suspecting sloppy hydro lash adjusters because when I pushed on them they were deflecting pretty bad. Thanks

Same thing happened to a "free" DL that I got. No compresson on the pass side. Rocker wouldn't stay on like it is supposed to. Turned out to be a slipped valve seat. Not saying this is your problem but it could be, look at the springs does anyone of them not pop back out as far as the others? Good luck

Ok here are some pics of how I installed my autometer gauge: Connect the pressure sender unit to the port on the oil pump that is at an angle. To do this you need an adapter Not sure what the thread pitch is on the pump side, I had to take the plug that was originally in the pump out and take it to an autoparts store. Then just route the wire from the sending unit to the gauge and splice into the lighting circit to get power to the lights. I think I tapped into the radio lights so my gauges dim with the dimmer switch on the dash, if you don't care you could tap into any 12 volt feed to get lights. The gauge that I bought came with instruction telling me what I need as far as electrical requierments. Then find a place on the dash for your new gauge. Good luck

I am in for a sonora meet.

I am up for anything, if it is in Sonora that is cool Stockton that is cool. About thurnderhill I will try to be there for the rally cross on Aug 13th.

You know I have heard about Thunderhill but never been there. Went to their site, looks like they have a lot of stuff going during the summer. Maybe I will have to cruise on out there.

Last time I did it I used assembly lube, but yea it is a PITA. Even with grease it will take a few tries. Just make sure that the followers don't get on croaked then you will gouge the cam. Did that once and it was enough for me. Good luck

I'd be down for comming to a meet. in the latter part of Aug or even Sept. Would be driving the 86 gl-10 in sig. Now that I am in Chico, Sac and the bay area is not that far away, and it will be one last Ha rawwww before school starts up. I will keep a lookout on this tread.

Interesting spin on the theory of relativity. Why not have the ramp come to you, instead of you going to the ramp, hilarious!!! And they did it with a subaru.

Sorry just saw this I live in Chico now but will be more than willing to lend a hand. IF need be (530)592/6086

I WISH I had the schematic for a brain box. But here is something that might get you by. It is a color code calculator. just put in the colored bands on the resistor in the calculator and it will spit out a resistance value and tolerance. Go to radio shack and hope that they have that resistor. If they don't resistors add in series ie. R1+R2+R3=Rtotal resistors divide in parallel ie. (1/R1)+(1/R2)+(1/R3)=(1/Rtotal) Good luck.

Might want to see if the wire to the injectors is open or shorted. Just measure the resistance of the wire from the ECU to the injector.

That is interesting. Did you use the stock thermoswitch? I have a set of 2 spal fans. While driving on the Highway yesterday 105 Deg F they were on almost all the time unless I was going down a big downhill. I have the stock thermoswitch, I think it activates at 199-207. When I switched to electric I noticed a little less drag when reving the engine. But never really looked at the MPG issue. I also have lights monted inside to indicate when the fans are on. Nothing like piece of mind.

I think neutral coasting is illigal. Reason being you have no way to speed the car up in an emergency. Not sure what that emergency could be. Maybe the motorhome behind you burned up his brakes? I tested out the effects of compression breaking on my way back from La Porte california, 30 mile downhill. For about 5 miles of the road I just used brakes alone, that was all the subi could handle. Brakeing power went to zero. Finally got it stopped thanks to compression brakeing and really standing on the pedel and my brake pads where smokeing. Now I know this is an extreme case. I really have nothing against you non-compression brakers. As long as you can stop your vehicle good for you. One form of braking that I feel is totally wrong is holding the clutch in while coasting this could wear out your throwout brearing prematurly (just a theory) One one more thing. While your subi is coasting the injectors are off. So no extra fuel is going into your engine. Only works on fuel injected cars. Maybe I am a sadist but I love rowing the gears. Downshifting into the corner and letting that thing sissle on out of there, there is nothing better. Happy braking!!!

The adjustment for the ac belt is on a seperate idler pulley. Directly below the AC compressor. to the right of the water pump (looking at the engine from the front). thanks to Boosted84Wagon for the pic