ericcroll

Not sure what you mean by expanded. There is a small amount of play in the main shaft... maybe 1/32" or 1/16"... doesn't seem like too much. The U-joint is practically seized in one direction, so I assumed that was the culprit. I guess I should have mentioned that this car has been operated in FWD mode for the last 80k miles with absolutely no problems.

97 OB Wagon with a 96 Lego tranny... about 200k Miles. I started getting a noise that sounded like a rear wheel bearing, but discovered a bad front U-joint and subsequent output shaft seal/bushing/driveshaft shaft wear. I got a seal, but can't seem to find the bushing anywhere. Is this a dealer only item (it is Saturday, dealers are closed, and I am trying to get this done today)?

The bearing still felt/sounded good when I pulled it into the garage. I'm not sure what circlip you're referring to, which I realize is probably a bad thing to start with, but I'm aware of the snap-ring on the inside (which I replaced), but there seemed to be a fixed lip on the outside that the bearing fit up tight to, so I guess I'm a bit confused at this point. Admittedly, I'm no bearing expert. In fact, this was only the third one I've ever done. The first was on a BMW quite a few years back, and the second was on the back of this car. The first two worked well, with no problems afterward, so I felt confident enough to do this one. I could certainly be an idiot at this point... LOL.

Yeah, I'm starting to think that as well after talking with a few people. I had a five foot bar on the end of a 1/2" breaker bar, and I still couldn't move the thing. I'm guessing that I was able to get about 600-700 ft-lbs on it. I'm about ready to cut it off with a torch, but I don't want to ruin the knuckle, as I just put a brand new bearing in it.

97 Legacy Outback with about 200000. Okay, so I replaced a very bad wheel bearing (due to a loose axle nut) last weekend, and although the bearing now feels and sounds fine, the ball joint is sloppy. I got a new ball joint and started dismantling the thing, but after backing the axle nut off about a turn, it stopped. I can turn it about a 1/4 turn back on, but it gets stuck there now too. It is now loose so that the axle will jiggle/slide in and out of the hub, and also the outer part of the hub is not tight to the inner part (to say that a different way, if the axle nut were to come off, the outer part of the knuckle (lugs and abs sensor ring) would come off with no tools. I've removed axles quite a few times, and never come across anything like it. I am at a loss, and am about to just remove the axle at the tranny and go to the junkyard to buy a whole new knuckle with an axle attached to it. Any ideas?

Temperature, temperature, temperature! It's a bad design. If it's hot, the plastic expands more than the metal and it gets tight. Let it cool, and it pops right out with a little bit of a twist.

Well, I guess I procrastinated just long enough. I was about to do the job this past weekend, when out of nowhere, the problem went away. I'm thinking that maybe I had some air in the system that finally worked its way out, but I'm really just guessing.

Well, I changed the pump and the belt with no improvement, and have now discovered a wet spot on the rack. It looks like I'm going to have to change that sucker. UGH! I have heard that there is a thread detailing the process, but haven't been able to find it. I don't suppose one of you has a quick link?

It was not squealing at all?

I will try this and let u know how it goes

You're saying that you changed the rack for nothing? Hmmm... I'm not so sure that I want to do that. I guess I'll put off the rack change while I keep looking for a leak as my arms and shoulders grow to Hulk-like proportions. lol All kidding aside, it is getting a bit frustrating and as the weather is getting colder, it is more and more of a problem.

I'm pretty sure this would be causing a charging issue, and I have not had that. The pulley is also not at all wet and there is no noise, so I believe that the belt is not the problem.

Can anybody give me a time and/or difficulty estimate on a rack change? I've managed to get myself through both an EJ22 swap and a tranny change, so I'm not a novice, but I've never done a rack in my life.

Well, I changed the pump and filled with ATF, and the problem remains. Has anybody had a rack failure that they can describe for me, or do any of you have any other ideas? I am still looking for a leak, but I now have such a mess of residual fluid under the hood from my elaborate attempt at draining the old pump using a hose connected to the return line that popped off when I turned the wheel, that I'm having a hard time identifying anything. So far though, I have found nothing obvious.

Well, I changed out the PSF for ATF, and it seemed to get marginally better, but certainly not gone. I am starting to think (as somebody else mentioned) that I have a leak that is drawing air into the system. I'm guessing that since it is sucking instead of blowing, that I won't be able to use the glow in the dark stuff. Somebody else mentioned a bleeding procedure that may or may not work under those circumstances. Is there a way to pressurize the whole system to see where it may be sucking air in?

I'm going to change out the PSF for ATF and check O-rings tomorrow, and I'll let you all know how it went.

1997 OBW with about 200,000 --- My power steering is coming and going (within fractions of seconds) as I drive - obviously quite nerve racking. So here's a little history... I never knew that Subarus called for ATF until browsing here for a solution to my problem (call me dumb for not looking, but it's my first Sub, and I had never heard of that), and had a slow leak on a line connection at the pump (call me lazy or forgetful for not just fixing it), so I've been adding PSF every couple of months for about a year or so. Right now it's full, I haven't been able to identify a significant leak, there are no growling noises, and am wondering if it's the rack, the pump, or something else. Any ideas?

I believe that I read on here somewhere that any set from a '90-'99 will work on my 97 OBW. Does that include all Subes, or just the Legacys? I'll need both doors, as well as the ignition.

I'm almost in the same boat... My ignition assembly is starting to get tricky (sometimes takes me a few tries to get it to turn), but my driver's side door lock assembly has given up. Do you guys have any suggestions as to which way to go? I've heard and read that the door lock assembly can be a battle. Should I be looking for a whole set of tumblers from the JY and replace them all, or should I be trying to have them repaired to fit my key?

Also, I tried to "create" a full axle using the outer CV joint from one, and the inner CV and axle from another, but found that the spline gear wasn't the same on both of them (I could not slide the outer CV joint onto the axle). Does that have anything to do with the OEM vs. aftermarket situation that you're aware of?

Funny you should mention that. I swapped out my tranny with one that the seller told me was from a 96 legacy, when in fact, it was out of a 98. Basically, I now have front and rear differentials that don't match. I've been running it in FWD for a few months now. Are you saying that it might be easier to change the tranny than the rear differential, like I was planning on doing?

I wish I could help you with that original question, but I haven't messed with my rear axles yet. Thanks for your help nonetheless.

I have a 97 OBW with high mileage, and have seen my share of frozen calipers. I am wondering if the twin piston calipers are prone to this, and if they are, if I can replace then with single piston calipers, which are considerably more abundant in the junkyard. I'm sure I can get some new ones that will likely hold up for a while, but I'm not really into spending a whole lot of money on this car right now. I suppose that a remedy for this ceasing would be an option as well, if one of you has any great ideas.

Thanks, I'll have to remember that trick. Incidentally, I have an OEM axle that had been making some noise (not real bad, and usually only one direction and mostly when cold) before I removed it (outer boot was torn). Do you know what the chances are of that axle being worth cleaning and repacking?

987687... Since you know all about cheap axles, I have a question for you. I'm trying to avoid a high cost replacement axle for my 4EAT (97 OBW), so I'm planning a trip to the U-Pull-It junkyard. I don't mind dismantling the CV joint and replacing the boot after repacking, but I don't want to waste my time doing it to a cheap axle. How can I tell the difference between a cheap one and an OEM axle while at the junkyard?