Fiveboy

It used to start first time and every time. How does one easily check for a leaking injector and wouldnt that affect mre than just start up? All the numbers are perfect and performance normal once she starts.

If this were the issue is it logical that then it would take longer to pressurize at start? She pressurizes quickly and then holds and stops pumping. The pump is a brand new racing high pressure pump with 30 hours on it. I will check the plugs.

Cut to the chase. My engine is rebuilt ground up and has great performance. After sitting a month recently (traveling) it wouldnt start. Squirted gas into the TB and she sputtered and lit. Ran fine. Then she wouldnt again and again. Cleaned the MAF - brightened up some oxidized (male) leads off coil pack, tested TPS - fine. Reset computer. Started great. Two weeks later, same issue. Tried to start over and over - no joy. Then she finally caught but sounded really really rough like it wasn't firing on all cylinders, that smoothed out and she ran well after that. After shutdown while warm I tried again and she wouldnt start, then I let the fuel pressurize longer than usual (she pressurizes and then stops as it should, but I waited) and she started a few times in a row. What could be going on here!? Is there a way to check if the MAF is going without using a scope (I dont have one)? Since I have an 94 Forrester (same engine as my 02 on my gyroplane) should I just swap out the one from my plane and if that goes away -order a new MAF? One additional note: I recently installed Iridium plugs.... doesnt seem like that would affect start only right? Any suggestions!????

THANKS FOR THIS. I have saved it in my reference materials.

I will try a few cycles and see what happens. If it doesnt magically clear up I will reinstall the old plugs which looked perfect (only like 30 hours on them). Am I correct that if the manual calls for 15.5 foot pounds on the plugs, that is irrespective of the brand?

BTW I do have a broad band fuel air metering sytem aside form what comes stock. The numbers when she was idling was at almost exactly perfect (like 14.8). I need to notice what she is reading under load when I take off and at cruise. These numbers will be changing shortly because I am about to depitch my prop some which will mean higher rpm and lower load under power.

Denso IK 20 Iridiums. Supposed to be the replacement for the stock plugs.... (?) Would taking the system off the battery and then letting it reset do anything good? I do not have a scanner. It would probably go nuts anyway because of all the custom mods to trick the engine into thinking its still on a car. I do have power steering but its by using a stick attached to a 27 foot rotor (LoL)

I replaced all the gas lines from the seat tank to the secondary metal filter. Also the two filters (small plastic paper see through and canister metal). Also put in some injector cleaner and ran for almost an hour yesterday (including five crow hops down the runway). The fuel starvation issue seems cleared up. I will not feel confident until I have run all 8 gallons through though. New (minor) issues: I changed the plugs to Iridium. Now the machine seems to run just a tad hotter at the water temp sensor. Could this be because of new hotter burning plugs? Also the machine seems to now idle lower (maybe 1200 vs 1500) and had a tendency to stall. Air in the lines? Computer trying to "learn" new plugs?! Would a dirty MAF/MAP cause the lower rpm at idle? As regards Ivans query why a 2.5 vs 2.2 - no reason other than lots of people fly the 2.5 and I have a heavy tandem and a 2.2 wouldnt cut it for the lift I need. Can I even get carb icing with a FI engine!? Thanks

I cut open the second metal gas filter (after the paper one that was fouled and before brand new the racing fuel pump) and it was totally clean. Nothing in it, so I am hoping my problem is isolated to before the fuel pump and I caught it in time. I am allowing the tank to dry out before I reinstall my feed lines (those are on the bottom of the seat which is the gas tank). I will then run some injector cleaner in a tank full and burn it off (on the ground at first and then in the air directly over the airport/runway). When there is a problem in the air you cannot just roll to the curb and park.

Yes! Careful examination shows that a cheap silicon gasket maker I used to seal the rubber part inside my seat tank gas cap had migrated into the tank (we sit on our gas tanks). This had become black snot and lodged into and throughout the first (paper see through) filter on the plane. After the fuel pump is another metal canister type. I have removed them both, flushed the tank and will be blowing out the fuel lines before reassembling with new filters. I looked at the plugs and they looked perfect. I may run some injector cleaner through the gas just to make sure everything is out.

Yesterday I flew (I have the engine on a gyroplane) and when I tried to accelerate I had an odd incident. The power remained where it was and there was no increase in rpm or thrust. The engine just continued at the setting it was on and then after two seconds or so, the power caught up to the new throttle setting. I managed to fly back home but now I want to check what would cause such a thing: plugs? Throttle sensor? Dirty map sensor.Dirty throttle body? In order of simplicity where should I look and what should I look for? Please copy to my email as well if you can. Thanks Rob

I am installing a 2001 Impreza 2.5 on a gyroplane here in Panama. We are using a prop speed reduction unit. It bolts where the tranny would be. I bought a starter for the engine but the throw on it is too short to engage the flywheel. I was told by a starter shop that I need a Lester 17717 I would like to get a used one asap shipped to Miami (they forward to here). Anyone know where I can get one of these (and is the throw in fact longer than the one I have?) Thanks Rob