bstone
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Posts posted by bstone
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6 hours ago, Numbchux said:
I'm still waiting for info on this "strut delete", lol
https://lmgtfy.com/?q=strut+delete
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20 hours ago, 1997reduxe said:
I could be wrong but i looked at rockauto even and it seems kyb sells them complete
for 97
Unfortunately it appears this is simply a generic ad but not at all relevant to the 97 OBW. I've seen dozens of these ads in my search for a "quick strut" for the 97 OBW but not a single one of them were reputable and compatible.
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40 minutes ago, 1997reduxe said:
I could be wrong but i looked at rockauto even and it seems kyb sells them complete
for 97
Where do you see this? I'm on rockauto's site now and I don't see the Strut-Plus for the 97 Legacy 2.5 AT.
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35 minutes ago, FerGloyale said:
I repeat.
You cannot convert Struts to Shocks unless you completely fabricate new a suspension with upper locating arms.
So I have no idea what you are asking for when you say "shock conversion". That is not a thing.
No manufacturer sells quick struts for your car.
Good luck.
Conversion to shocks is called "strut delete" and it does exist for other makes and models.
There are several quick struts available on Amazon but with no reviews so I am hesitant to even consider buying them and therefore came here to determine if others have had experience with them.
I am happy to have educated you on these two important points of information.
Good luck.
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I love how I specifically request no recommendations to compress the springs myself or bring it to a mechanic's shop for them to do yet rather for people to recommend quick struts or a shock conversion kit.....yet they repeatedly recommend what I specifically asked them not to.
Oh internet!
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It's time for my 97 Legacy OBW AT to get new suspension components. Unloading a strut scares the bejesus out of me so I'm in the market for a high quality quick strut yet I've been unable to find almost anything of this type. I'm also open to converting to shocks but I'm coming up with the same goose egg. Before someone suggests "just get them loaded at your local mechanic" or suggests I DIY it let's just say that isn't an option so don't even suggest it. So does anyone know a source for a quality quick strut or a shock conversion kit?
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It works! I checked the rear wiper and it was working. I checked the fuse and it was good. I disconnected the wiring harness to the wiper motor under the hood and reconnected it and POOF it worked.
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13 minutes ago, forester2002s said:
Does the rear wiper work?
On some Subarus, the same fuse powers both front and rear wipers.
I'll check in the morning.
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16 minutes ago, lmdew said:
Year and model would help.
97 OBW AT
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39 minutes ago, Crazyeights said:
Do you hear any sound at all when you turn the wipers on like the motor is running but the wipers won't move or is it totally silent?
Totally silent. I'm assuming the motor is burnt out but maybe it had some unforeseen weight on the blades with the snow and the fuse just burnt out.
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Yesterday morning on my way to work my wipers stopped working. I made sure to clear off the windshield and remove snow covering the arms prior to turning them on. Once or twice the blades would sweep the window but now nothing happens when I try to turn on the wipers no matter what speed or setting I use. I'm hoping to begin troubleshooting it tomorrow. Here are my thoughts:
Check fuses for continuity
Inspect wiper motor and try to jump it with 12V to see if that engages the blades
Any other ideas? It's frigid outside here in Boston with no access to a garage so I'm hoping to be as efficient as possible.
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You’ll need to check the coolant for hydrocarbon gases. Check with your local Advance or AutoZone to see if they have such a tester and report back your results. The 98 EJ25 engine was very prone to HG leaks so it’s highly likely that the missing coolant is from that. As far as a video showing how to replace the HG there are videos but you must understand this is not a beginner type job as you are literally disassembling the top half of the engine and then putting it back together.
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First and foremost stop throwing parts and hoping it’ll fix a problem. Is your CEL on? If so pull the codes and report back. Have you done a tune up using quality plugs and wires? I’d start there. Acceleration issues can be so many things including the fuel pump, clogged cat converter, and many things inbetween.
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Be prepared to cut the lower lateral link bolt to get the knuckle off. Possibly needing to replace the bushings in the lateral links as the bolt won't come out. You'll likely have $50+ in hardware at the dealer just to remove and re-install the knuckle.
Also, FYI, there are 3 seals
Is this the correct replacement bolt? Even if I can get the old one out it's likely to be in really bad shape.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-20540AA001-Bolt-Lateral/dp/B00ESKJJVY
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doesn't exist for that application.
Bearing needs to go into the knuckle first, then retainer ring/clip and seal installed, then hub pressed in.
You could use an on car type "hub tamer". Buying that and a slide hammer to remove hub might as well just pay a shop, unless you plan to do alot more of them.
That makes perfect sense. I think I'll remove the knuckle and bring it to a shop to do the pressing for me.
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1997 Legacy Outback AT AWD and the rear wheel bearing need to be
replaced. I don't own a press but I thought I might buy a replacement
hub with the bearing already pressed in. I've looked but can't find such
a product. Can you all recommend one or help me find an option?
Thanks!!! -
Right - but the first time you removed a perfectly fine starter and installed a bad one (presumably you said it stuck - check all the relay/wiring/ground). First time was wiring issues which again presumably are resolved - so now there's a sticking/bad starter.
I wouldn't want the liability of getting stranded somewhere given how many aftermarket starters fail. Some people might be okay taking a high percentage risk, if that's you then yeah just ignore it and see what happens.
A new starter sticking and freeing is common. Saw it last year. Fine first month or 3, stuck, then progressively suck more and failed in a few months. He got his Money back and I installed an OEM one for him. Not uncommon at all, but you could conceivably get lucky but my time isn't worth it on components like starters, fuel pumps, and alternators which strand the vehicle.
Last time I bought a used OEM starter which worked for several months but then the click-no-crank happened so I put in the new contacts and plunger but the problem of click-no-crank persisted. I then replaced it with another used OEM starter (the current one) which was fine for a few months and then the problem of click-no-crank occurred. I thought the current starter was new from Advance but I was wrong as it's definitely used OEM. Sorry for that confusion! I'm open to replacing the contacts and plunger again since it's cheap and easy but I'm curious if you think that will help the current click-no-crank or if I should go with a Denso starter.
Also, to ensure I have the crank relay set up correctly so I take a voltmeter and probe the wire going from the relay to the starter spade connector and the other probe from the relay to the battery? Or can I just probe the 30A fuse? What is a correct voltage reading (I'm assuming 12V or abouts but want to make sure). Does it matter if the key is on or does the engine have to be actively cranking?
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1. verify wiring as said
2. personally i'd get a used OEM Subaru starter and replace the contacts. they're a dime a dozen.
I'll thriple check the wiring.
2. I did that for the last starter-used OEM Subaru and replaced the plunger and contacts but it didn't help with the intermittent failure to start.
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Double check the ground cable connection.
But if that is good I would get the Denso starter.
I added an additional grounding cable to the starter. Also from the engine to chassis and another from alternator to battery. No love.
Is Denso the consensus here? Crazy thing is since my buddy hit it while I turned the key it's been totally reliable.
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Does it say DENSO on the sticker on the starter? If No, that's the problem.
Do you see Denso as a solid quality starter? In particular it this one a reliable unit?
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It's the starter. It wouldn't start with the relay but a friend banged on the starter as I turned the key and that caused the starter to engage. Seems I got a crappy starter. Do you all think copper contact replacement will help or this needs a new quality starter?
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OK I just wired up the relay and so far it’s working. Why didn’t anyone tell me it was pretty easy to do? The relay didn’t have any diagram so I found one which was previously linked but the numbers weren’t exactly the same so I swapped around until the solenoid would engage. I made sure to use a 30A inline fuse connected to the 30 spade.
The real test will come tomorrow after it’s sat overnight in the cold. That’s when I have the most difficulty in starting. -
The CEL ie because the ECU is getting the starter signal, but the starter isn't turning. Thus the ECU assumes the crank sensor must be bad and throws a code. The crank sensor is not bad nor has it ever been bad. You are troubleshooting without understanding how any of this works.
If the starter was a cheapo from a parts store - that's your problem. If it was a quality starter like dealer new, dealer reman, or a denso reman then you need to install a relay in the crank circuit to apply full battery current to the starter solenoid.
GD
Dear GD,
Can you walk me through how to do the crank circuit to the starter solenoid? BTW, remember the sandblaster you got sent a bunch of years ago? I was glad to contribute to that gift.
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Have you checked the timing?
O.
Timing is good. This vehicle has a transplanted EJ22 in it.
Quick strut source or convert to shock?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Thank you to all who posted replies. I request this thread be locked. Good evening to all.