bstone

Your MPG will tank way down when you have an O2 code. Fix the problems, clear the codes.

Oh, that's easy to get to. Which of the many modules under the dash is it? Does it say transmission or something on it?

Copy that. I plan to disconnect the TCU and see what that does. If it does not result in binding then I know I got a bad clutch pack.

That is very good advice. Where is the TCU located?

How would I go about measuring the voltage for the Duty C? I can go to my buddy's garage and put it up on his lift. Just need to know where to probe. Should it be about 12V?

I have a 97 Legacy OBW AT EJ25. Last winter I had a problem while trying to drive up a driveway that was covered in snow. The front tires were spinning and the rear tires were doing nothing. I tried a whole bunch of times and I just couldn't make it up. Any ideas what might be happening? I replaced the Duty C Solenoid over a year ago and there are no CELs or AT Oil Temp lights flashing. Someone said something about the center diff having failed. How can I check that?

I think you're talking about the lower ball joint. I had the same exact problem last summer. I was taking off the bolt that holds it in and the head came off. I ended up drilling it out. Took hours, but eventually I got it out. The new lower ball joint came with a new bolt, which I sprayed with PB Catalyst and put a nice smear of anti-seize on it. I am going to replace the lower ball joint on the other side but will be way more careful. Will spray it down on PB Catalyst for days and days with lots of tapping before I try to get it out.

I got the same code, circuit error, when the O2 sensor had snapped in half due to driving over a huge snow mound. Replaced with new OE sensor and all is lovely now.

A bad O2 sensor will murder your gas mileage. Fix it! Get a Subaru sensor, cause the aftermarkets don't work well.

Smoke the engine. Look for vacuum leaks. Run a bottle seafoam through the brake booster.

:lol:

Since we haven't heard back from him I think it's safe to assume his car exploded due to a black hole.

Battery is low. It's not dead, just too low to engage the starter motor.

^"Ethanol is bad but I don't have a lick of evidence, but I'll keep saying it over and over!" Snooze.

False. Crap comes from your colon. Ethanol does not. You do know this as been debunked over and over, yes? Very fasle. For every 100BTU that is spent to produce ethanol, 120BTU is burned. The pipe lines have other problems, like BP letting them go for years and then they break. Ethanol has nothing to do with that. Oh great, here we go..... I invest a lot. As Richard Feynman said, "Great claims call for great evidence." Prove this 8k claim. You are telling people to do research but then you make claims without any proof. Agreed.

How is ethanol crap? It's 107 octane. That's ultra high quality fuel. As long as your ECU knows how to differentiate between the oxygen concentration levels between dinofuel and ethanol then your car will run just fine. It's doesn't corrode parts (contrary to popular belief) and makes my engine purr.

For the love of Jah, please replace the water pump, every pulley, tensioner and idler in there. If you want to keep the car this is the right thing to do.

I just used a 7/8" open wrench. Worked fine when I did my O2 sensors.

Sounds like you're burning out coil packs. Use the search function and try to find the thread from a few months ago about someone with the same issue. I forgot how he solved it. Maybe a grounding issue.

Think it's time to check car-part.com for a low mileage 4EAT. I got one for $300 and 90k miles last summer.

I got the same noise. It usually goes away after a few minutes.

Why i love Advance Auto Parts. Their online coupons have saved me thousands.

try a bottle of Lucas Trans Stop Slip?

Beautiful!