bstone

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2020700

Advance. I put it in because the same issue (turn key 10-15 times, hear click, finally starts) was happening to the old starter. It worked fine a few months but now it's occurring again concurrent with the aforementioned CEL.

I have searched and it appears many others have had the same problem as I. Every time the vehicle fails to start the P0335 CEL comes on leads me to believe there is a relationship. Why else would the CEL continue to come on after changing the sensor?

This is a 3 month old starter. I seriously doubt the contacts are yet worn.

Installed a new sensor from Advance earlier today but cleared the code before installing. The electrical connector looked good upon inspection. With the new sensor in I had to try 10-15 times before the starter engaged and the CEL P0335 was back on. Cleared the code and took a drive. Parked and did some shopping then tried to turn it on again where I repeated the 10-15 key turns/clicks before the starter engaged. CEL P0335 was back on. Did happened another 3 times- cleared code, drove for a while, parked, 10-15 key turns/clicks before starter engaged, CEL P0335 back on. Thoughts and suggestions welcome.

Did you actually read my post? Please go back and actually do so. Thank you.

Patient: 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback AT Subjective: Turn key, hear click, but starter does not engage. Can try several times and it will finally turn over. Objective: CEL of P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction. Code cleared but returned 200 miles later. Assessment: The crankshaft sensor is bad vs wiring harness issue. Plan: Remove crankshaft sensor and use a digital multimeter to check the resistance. Does anyone know what the normal range is?

Hey guys, it turned out to be the hose from the EGR valve to the solenoid had popped off on the solenoid side. The hose was loose and tired so I cut off the end and plugged it back in so now it’s nice and tight. Sorry it’s not something more involved but thank you for the help!

I'll check the hoses and pull out the EGR in the next few days and see if it holds pressure just like he showed. I have a feeling the diaphragm is shot after being in use since 1997!

Just got this code on my 97 OBW. I imagine the EGR valve is likely stuck or one of the hoses need replacement, but before I go tinkering I'd enjoy to get your alls opinion. I'll make sure to repost back with updates.

Does your model have an igniter (sometimes called an ignition control module)? Mine recently went bad but replacing it got me going just fine. However since you lack pulse at the injectors and no spark then there must be something else. Trace back the connections in the harness and see if something is unplugged.

Agree with above- check the coolant for hydrocarbons. That’ll tell you if the HG is blown and needs replacement. You may want to consider replacing the engine with a used good or have GD replace the HGs for you.

Excellent work! Our vehicles are so sensitive to parts and it almost makes sense to always buy OEM just to you don’t go through an epic saga like you have. When you scanned the code for the current CEL what did it say? I might clear the codes and wait until the CEL comes back on (if it does) in order to get a more accurate view of the current troubles. Have you tried reticulating the splines?

Hard to say. Have you tried putting your particulars in a few auto parts websites and seeing if an igniter is an option? It's also called an "Ignition Control Module". I'm also in Boston and I think this extreme cold is killing our electrical systems.

Where in Boston are you? There's something about Boston and no-spark conditions. I just went through this and it was due to the igniter. Here's my thread on this topic. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/165779-slow-death-of-the-igniter-long-live-the-igniter-no-spark-in-cylinder-3/

It also made little sense to me but when I pulled the wire from cylinder 4 it had spark. I have an inline spark tester with a clear chamber and the spark looked normal in all but cylinder 3. I don't know how to explain it.

Over the past month I noticed some increasing misfiring, a random CEL turning on and off, increasing roughness, and then finally a flashing CEL with severe misfiring. Scanning with my OBD-II revealed a cylinder 3 misfire. In the processing of identifying the issue I checked for spark at the coil pack by removing the plug wire and checking for arcing. Cylinder 3 had no spark whatsoever and completely removing the wire didn’t change the severity of the misfire. I swapped the plug and wire from cylinder 1 to 3 but the problem of no spark remained confined to cylinder 3. Thinking the issue might be the coil itself I temporarily put on a brand new coil pack but the problem persisted (and I returned the pack for a refund). I finally searched these boards and found posts where one cylinder lacking spark was often traced back to the igniter. Neither Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts had this part in their systems but O’Rilley did. I limped over on three cylinders and in their parking lot quickly swapped it out. The change was dramatic and amazing! No more misfire and, better yet, the engine seems happier and more responsive than ever. I’m wondering how long the igniter was failing before it caused an outright misfire. Sharing this here in order to help others and also find out why I’ve never heard of igniters on other makes going bad. Cheers.

Cut the wires from the nonworking side and leave room to splice in wires from the working side. I’ve seen many mechanics do this.

Hey folks, 7 years later my ABS light came on and I found this old post I made. I’m a bit embarrassed that I had some incorrect information (which prong) and also failed to put in a code chart. I’ve updated my original post and hope it’s much more helpful now.

Following up from my prior thread about the starter failing to engage, I replaced the ignition switch this afternoon and now it starts with total reliability. The old switch felt a bit sloppy and the new one feels tight. As far as the wires/electrical connector the new switch wire has an extra spade inside the connector which the old one did not have. I don't know if this makes any difference. Thank you to everyone for your help.

https://smile.amazon.com/FiberFix-857101004235-Heat-Wrap/dp/B00N582CBY

O.o You clearly missed the post above which shows the starter voltage.

This is very useful information. Any photos available? Can you sketch it out for me? This would be my first time doing this sort of thing and it needs to be done ASAP.

This is very useful information. Any photos available? Can you sketch it out for me? This would be my first time doing this sort of thing.

Sorry to resurrect this ancient thread but I seem to have this exact problem. I replaced the copper contacts and plumber in the solenoid but still no start about 50% of the time. I am interested in adding this relay but I've never done it and therefore wonder if someone has a walk-through video or guide. Thanks!