bstone

Have you replaced the coil? Is there no spark from all 4 plugs on the coil?

Pressure leak down test and HC test are good indicators of HG failure.

Alright, I'll get a can of MAF cleaner and try that. I also have to diagnose the fix the grinding noise coming from the neutral sensor.

Ill admit that SnapOn is outside of my budget. I have a 260 piece Craftsman Mechanic Toolkit that I use when working at the garage. So far I have not been missing anything important. I would like a wrench with a ratchet in it, but I can live for now.

Yeah I only use craftsman tools. The only way to go.

The head bolts are 12 point 14mm, I think. I just did it the other day. I have them in the basement and can go down to double check.

Well, I took the old IACV and ran Seafom through it about 20 times. Stuck my small fingers into it and they always came out dark black. I will put it back in tomorrow and see what happens.

Replaced the Inhibitor Switch (aka Neutral Safety Switch), including the cable. Took about 2 hours as the exhaust pipe was majorly in the way. Put everything back together, cleared the codes and turned it back on. Still doing the idle rise and fall, over and over. Now I am also hearing a grinding type noise, coming from the switch area. I don't think it's the inhibitor switch. Maybe it's the TPS or it could be the IACV that I replaced it with. Ideas?

Rebuilding a trans is no simple task. I am happy to pull off cylinder heads and to head gaskets, but the thought of opening a trans to play with the clutches scares me. Maybe I'll try to find a dead one and rebuild it, but seriously it's not a simple thing to take on.

Alright. Now all I need is a multimeter. I'll try to find one at the local Sears.

I don't have anything special. No internet, no video- nada.

We found the camera, but the battery is dead and the cable is nowhere to be found. I'll try with my cellphone camera, but the quality ain't so good.

Yes. The engine failed because the water pump sprung a leak as I was driving on the interstate.

Pulled the left side head off. The head gasket is scorched and burned in many places. Inside the cylinder walls there are the burn marks that appear on the right side. I think the block is hosed.

Alright, just so I understand..... I leave the TPS plugged in, but I straighten out some paperclips and insert them in the plug, using them as extensions and test from there. Right?

Explain, please?

Gotchya. Ohhhh- this is how you adjust a TPS! Of course use what Subarus need, but it finally makes sense.

So, I remove the ECM or just unplug it. Ok. Do I do anything with it or just leave it removed/unplugged while checking for .45 to .55V?

You are right, AutoZone has it for way too much while RockAuto has it for a very reasonable price. I think I'll cancel the AZ order. Update: Canceled AZ order, got from RockAuto instead.

Oh, found the TPS adjustment procedure in msa5tcd97l3510.pdf It says "take out ECM". It wants me to remove the ECM from the car? The one under the dash?

I am still looking for the TPS adjusting method in the service manual. I have the many, many PDF version and search isn't so easy. The code coming now is only P1507, even after the replacement IACV, so I am thinking this is the issue and not the IACV. So, I ordered this from the AutoZone that is just around the corner and they said it will be here Wednesday after 3pm. The junkyard is refusing to sell my just one component from the transmission.

They said it was $40 for the machining but around $10 in taxes and a fee. I checked other machine shops and they wanted nearly $150.

Update: Cleared the code and put in new TPS. Drove around and CEL came back saying P1507 (IAC Valve). The IACV & Solenoid in there has been replaced, so I am thinking it might be this Inhibitor Switch. Once or twice the AT Oil Temp light flashed 16 times, but it doesn't any longer. So, where do I get the Inhibitor Switch from?

While having a friend crank the car, pull the wire out of the coil but close and check for the arching of electricity. Do it for each wire. If there is no arching then you are lacking spark. You'll then change the coil pack, tho the problem might lay in the igniter.

Went and swapped the TPS with the old one and then back to the new one. No longer getting the P1700, but back to the old TPS code. The idle is going from 1.5k to 2.25k over and over. I sprayed carb cleaner down the entire engine to try to find a vacuum leak, but could not. I am at a loss right now. Can I possibly have gotten a bad TPS? What are the odds? Or, am I looking in the wrong place? Should I be looking at soemthing else, like EGR? I have another EGR valve off the junk car.