bstone

I am looking for the camera, but it seems to be missing. I agree that the burn on the cylinder wall is interesting. Pictures when I can find the camera. Tomorrow I'll take off the left side cylinder head. I didn't see any shims. When I bring the heads to the machine shop should I bring the entire head? Anything else?

Right side head is off! I wasn't prepared for how easily the head would come off, but I caught it. The head gasket came right off, as well. Below is a picture of each side. Sorry if the quality sucks, I used the camera on my laptop. How do they look? One of the piston walls has a line of burn on it about a half inch wide and going down. The other is smooth to the touch and feel. I am pooped now and tomorrow will do the left side.

Right side cam sprockets and shafts out. Working on head bolts now.

That worked. Right side cams off.

Valve cover is off. No impact here- this is a basement job with hand tools. I'll try to stick a wrench into the valve flat spot. Wish me luck.

I am in the basement and have a 17mm socket on the bolt holding one of the four cam sprockets on. However when I try to turn the bolt the cam rotates with it. How do I remove the bolt without turning the cam?

Check on the Subaru OE gaskets. I'll make an order of those. I'll get the head, crank and cam seals. Here's the next question- what should I do with the block? It's got 220k miles on it, but wasn't burning oil or knocking before the HGs blew. Should I begin to tear it down? I'm going into the basement now to take the cams off.

GD, Fantastic reply! Thanks! Alright, so I have to remove the cams. I take is they are held on by a bold or nut and will slide right off when removed? Maybe I'll spray them down with a little liquid wrench. No rocker arms. Good to know! How many head bolts are there total? Should I get new bolts when reinstalling or reuse the old ones? Also, please suggest a cam seals.

A few months ago the EJ25 in my 97 Legacy OBW blew the HGs. I bought a used engine and put the blown one in my trunk. Now it's sitting in the basement and I finally have time to begin taking it apart. Goal: Remove the heads, send them out for machining and order new OE HGs (4 layer, indestructible ones). Question 1: How do I remove the heads? I understand I remove the valve cover and then remove the rocker arms. Are the head bolts right under the rocker arms? Question 2: Does anyone know of a good machine shop in the New Haven, CT area? Question 3: Is there a suggested source for the OE HGs, or will any OE online dealer do? Question 4: Anything else I should consider doing while I am "in there"? Replace the pistons? I plan to put on a new rear main seal, PCV plate, valve cover gaskets, cam seals, oil pan gasket. When I reassemble the engine I'll also put on a new water pump and timing belt.

You do know what anecdotal evidence is, right? Your own experience is anecdotal. Other peoples' experiences are also anecdotal.

Like I said, anecdotal evidence.

The word "FelPro" does not exist on that page. It's intellectually dishonest to link to a page about faulty headgaskets and claim they are FelPro, yet the page in question has no such statement.

So is any supposition that FelPro makes an inferior product. Due to what? Anecdotal evidence?

Like I said, FelPro is far superior to what originally came with our engines. it'll last a lot longer.

The FelPros are a much higher quality than the original ones on the engine. It's fine.

If by "soon" you mean in 100,000 miles, then good. THis engine will have 300,000 on it.

Recently installed FelPro HGs. 3 layer.

Where on the trans? Is it by the VSS?

Yes, only the slack is removed. The cams are not being rotated, only the slack has been removed. This Inhibitor Switch is interesting. Where is it located and is it easily replaced? I just so happen to have another EJ25 engine that is complete and I can take parts off of. I am going to take off the IAC solenoid/valve off it and put it on mine and guess I should swap the Inhibitor Switch as well.

I have an AT. I went out and loosened and then tightened the throttle cable. Also made sure the cruse cable was nice and tight. There is some give to them but they are tight. Now I am getting another code- P1507. When in Park the idle is going nuts- up and down over and over. Also, accelerating is not consistent at all. Sometimes seems like very low power and others it kicks in full. I am thinking it's the TPS. Any ideas? Maybe the Idle Air Control Solenoid Valve? I sprayed down the air hosing with carb cleaner to try to find a vacuum leak. Couldn't find out.

Got it.

Alright off to try it. I'll loosen the cables and make a bit of slack. I'll clear the code and take her for a drive on the highway.

Are they adjustable? Righty tighty, lefty loosey?

Where exactly is the idle air control valve?

Just came back to my car after being away for a month. Started up fine and drove about 20 miles to do some business. Got back in and while driving noticed the CEL was on. Scanned it and it said P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected First time I've seen this code. The engine is old and has high mileage and was recently installed about a month ago. I will check the hoses for a vacuum leak. The car is driving normal- no stumbling or misfiring. Does anyone have first hand experience with this?