bstone

I have an AT. I went out and loosened and then tightened the throttle cable. Also made sure the cruse cable was nice and tight. There is some give to them but they are tight. Now I am getting another code- P1507. When in Park the idle is going nuts- up and down over and over. Also, accelerating is not consistent at all. Sometimes seems like very low power and others it kicks in full. I am thinking it's the TPS. Any ideas? Maybe the Idle Air Control Solenoid Valve? I sprayed down the air hosing with carb cleaner to try to find a vacuum leak. Couldn't find out.

Got it.

Alright off to try it. I'll loosen the cables and make a bit of slack. I'll clear the code and take her for a drive on the highway.

Are they adjustable? Righty tighty, lefty loosey?

Where exactly is the idle air control valve?

Just came back to my car after being away for a month. Started up fine and drove about 20 miles to do some business. Got back in and while driving noticed the CEL was on. Scanned it and it said P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected First time I've seen this code. The engine is old and has high mileage and was recently installed about a month ago. I will check the hoses for a vacuum leak. The car is driving normal- no stumbling or misfiring. Does anyone have first hand experience with this?

I hate to say it, but you might be looking at a bent or burned valve on cyl 3.

That's a labor intensive way of checking fuses. Just get a test light. They sell them at AutoZone real cheap.

Get test light. Check fuses.

I searched long and hard for a complete set when I was going to do my struts and coils. I could not find it anywhere. Maybe you will have better luck than I did, but this is why I ended up ordering the OE coils, OE boots and OE mounts and KYB struts and assembled them at the shop.

By "tophat" he means the strut mount.

My rule for used parts- if it moves then don't buy used. I say this as the moving parts wear down and eventually fail. When I redid my struts and coils I got the KYB struts and OE coils, OE strut mounts and OE boots. I got the best I could get. It was expensive! I know KYB doesn't offer a complete coil and strut kit. I wish they did.

Yeah using the jack works. It's a pain tho.

Need to find out why there is no spark. Did they mess with the igniter? The path is basically ECU->Igniter->Coil->Wires->Plugs. If your coil has no spark, then check the igniter. If that is fine then check the ECU. And engine grounds. Don't forgot those.

ECU. A failing/bad ECU can cause a misfire on just one cylinder. It did for me and I replaced the ECU and it went away. Find one from a junkyard.

I replaced all 4 struts, coils, boots and mounts on my 97 Legacy Outback. I did the coils as one of the old ones was cracked and broken, and the others were just not springy any longer. Half of the job is the coils. I work at a garage so I got one of the guys to help me when installing. That is a 2man job. We normally charge $250 for replacing all 4 struts. We also have rock bottom prices, so expect to find higher.

Cool. Other than less power (fine with me, I assume that would mean more MPG, which is what I love) what else might I notice?

Mildly off topic post: I can take an EJ25 block and put on EJ22 cylinder heads? Will it just work or is something special needed? I have an EJ25 motor sitting in the basement with a blown HG. Going to rebuild it one of these days.

http://www.obd-codes.com/P0141 This seems to perfectly sum up your issues. Go get an OE O2 sensor and replace it.

Can also be sway bar links.

Good job. How long did it take?

Sway bar links. They cause vibration at high speeds.

It's just a guess. Might also be the mass air flow sensor. I've seen bad MAFSs cause your problem.

Getting any codes? Is the CEL on? Have you gotten some carb cleaner and cleaned out the throttle plates? The throttle position sensor might be bad. Try swapping it.

I don't mean to sound rude or too inquisitive, but how do you charge 35/hr? The shop I'm with does 65 and we're considered super cheap.