bstone

My OBW currently has 205/70R15 tires, but I want to put on the Michelin Energy Saver A/S tires, but they come only in 195/65R15. What would happen if I put these smaller tires on?

Check the plugs, wires, coil. Make sure they are all snug. Unplug and replug all the airhoses, paying special attention to the air ducting and the small hose below the MAFS. Also, unplug the MAFS and try without it plugged in. You'll get a check engine light but it will eliminate a computer glitch. Lastly, unplug the negative battery terminal and let the computer reset for 5 min before trying again.

There is a small air hose coming from below the ducting below the MAFS that will cause the car to stall if not hooked up. This happened to me when I swapped the passenger side plugs. Check it out.

You have pulled the engine three times? GOODNESS MAN! I am impressed. I replaced my oil separate plate when I replaced the transmission. I made sure to use the latest subaru OE part, which was metal vs the original plastic.

I have been noticing that my overflow tank's level has not changed at all, despite the system constantly running low on coolant. I'll change it and let you know. Should I get an OE or is an aftermarket ok?

New issue: When removing a radiator cap is it usual to have a strong suction/sucking feeling and noise accompany it? The upper radiator hose (which is new and perhaps a tiny bit too long) was under a bit of pressure and popped out when i removed the cap. Any ideas?

AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, etc.....scan codes for free.

Not sure what this process you describe is, but the easiest way is to use an ABS code reader, like my Actron scanner.

Regarding ABS codes, you'll need to find an ABS code reader. It's not the normal OBD-II reader, unfortunately. I have an Actron scanner that has ABS codes, but it doesn't work for all cars.

I checked again tonight, doing another pressure leak down test. I got one of the mechanics to listen with his ears for the hissing. It turned out to be the upper radiator hose. I replaced it and then repressurized (after refilling the tank) and the pressure remained constant. I think I found my culprit.

Well now I am still confused. I ran a chemical block test using this test and it was negative both times I ran it. In addition to the lack of smoke coming from the tail pipe I am thinking that maybe my loss of pressure it coming from the water pump. Thoughts?

When I hear a car alarm I intentionally do not check it out. 99.99% of the time it's an accidental trip. If someone's car is getting stolen I run, not walk, away from it. Don't wanna get hurt by some nutso.

There's your problem! Replace it and let us know what happens.

Any chance it's the rear main seal? Have you checked the trans pan oil gasket?

They might have a rental kit for this job at autozone or advance auto parts. Check it out.

Went to the local Subaru dealer and got a bottle of the Coolant Conditioner for $1.75. Then went to the grocery story and got a bottle of ground black pepper for the same price, exactly. Added both. Let car run for 15 min with heat on highest. Will check coolant level in the morning and do another leak pressure test.

Possibly I'll try both. I hate black pepper in my food and have a bit laying around. Can't hurt if I am planning on replacing the engine anyhow, right?

What do you all know about putting ground up black pepper into the radiator? One of the mechanics at the shop swears by it and keep telling me to try it before I do anything else.

It's a kit you can rent from AutoZone. Go in and ask for the pressure tester and the foreign car adaptor. Pump it to 16 PSI and see what happens. It's not supposed to lose pressure as it's supposed to be a closed system. Yup, it is bad news.

Did another pressure leak down test. This time I removed the hose to the external tank and the pressure went in. Pumped it up to 16PSI in the yellow zone. Took about 10 minutes, but I heard a clear hissing and the pressure was going down very quickly. The hissing is coming the engine compartment- I would bet the headgasket. Yup....

Would you believe me if I told you that I've only been working at the garage for 3 weeks? I did a lot of work on my own car, which is how I got started. Before I dig into someone else's engine I figure I'll do my own.

I'm no pro, but I do work at a garage and have access to lifts, pulleys and a bunch of mechanics who can guide me when things get confusing. I do mostly minor work- brakes, oil changes, tune ups, reading codes and swaping sensors when they fail. Learning more every day.

I would be willing to pay the money for a CCR rebuilt engine, but it is expensive. Is there anything different in those engines other than a general rebuild? The JDM engines have between 55-65k miles on them, approaching the HG failure point. I can easily swap the HGs before putting the engine in the car. Do you all think that would give me an engine to last a long long time?

I think the consensus here is pretty clear- new/low mileage engine. What are the thoughts on the JDM engines? The low mileage sounds good and I can to a HG replacement with the new Subaru (not FelPro) ones before any damage happens. Eager to hear your opinions.

The answer to that is I have been restoring this old car and plan to drive it for years to come. I recently put in a low-mileage trans, replaced the entire brake system (rotors, calipers, pads), replaced all 4 sway bar links, replaced the oil, trans, spark plug and valve cover gaskets, rear main seal and oil separator plate (while the trans was out). Just trying to determine the best course of action. I am fine doing any of them. Also, why not FelPro's HGs? I've heard they are superior to even the "new" Subaru HGs.