bstone

As it appears I am suffering from a slow but significant HG leak I am now looking into options. This engine has 230k miles on it and is not nearly as optimal as it used to be. So should I:: 1) Pull the heads, send them for machining and replace the HGs with the FelPro HG? 2) Replace the heads with quality reman heads? 3) Replace the engine? The first would be the easiest for me, as I work at a garage and can do the labor mostly myself. I might pay some of the other techs a few bucks to help me lift the motor, if that ends up being necessary. The second would be the easiest in terms of time and labor. Simply pull the old heads and put new ones on. Also, the price for a reman heads vs machining them is not too different. The third would put a low-mileage motor in to replace my old one. A head job wouldn't solve any of the engine block issues and a JDM motor is just under a grand. Suggestions? Ideas? Your feedback is very much appreciated.

THat might work, but it likely won't completely cut off the air flow, thus leading to a tainted reading. I'll try it tonight, tho.

I guess the adaptor for foreign cars at AutoZone isn't the right one to use when trying to do a pressure test. The pressure test device they have does not fit my radiator input, thus the adaptor. How can I get it done?

How does the adaptor for the radiator neck fit over? It snugly hugs the lip, but the air I pump in goes right into the hose to the reservoir? I brought the car to the local dealer and asked that they check the HG. 30 minutes later they said "it's fine" but refused to check the disappearing coolant unless I ponied up money. They want $130. No thanks. I ran a block test with the fluid and tube. 3 times it came up negative for exhaust in the coolant.

I did and it hasn't overheated in over 3 weeks. No, the engine is off and the bubbles are from the pump to pressurize the coolant system. I know this will go away once I determine how to plug up the coolant reservoir. How? It's no longer overheating, only disappearing coolant.

I went to AutoZOne and got the coolant pressure tester and the foreign adaptor. I hooked it up and started pumping, but all of the air just bubbled out of the reservoir. How do I make that not happen? Regarding the coolant conditioner, I've been told by 2 owners of independent Subaru shops that the Bar's Leak is nearly identical to the Subaru stuff. They each recommended using it first.

He wanted to charge $75 for hitting the clear code button? Just disconnect the - battery terminal for 10 minutes and it'll do the same. Sheesh!

97 Legacy Outback Wagon, 230k miles. Every morning I have to add about a quart of water/coolant to the radiator. I burp it by squeezing the upper hose until no more bubbles are present. I am not overheating, but did overheat about 3 weeks ago. I see no coolant under the car. I am nervous I might have an internal leak of head gasket issue. I ran a chemical "block test" which was three times negative for exhaust in the coolant. Put a can of Bar's Leak in for good measure. Where is the coolant? What can I do?

Valve cover gaskets. Just replaced mine (and the spark plug gaskets) and that eliminated the leaking. But I still have disappearing coolant.

Checked the fluid. It's fine and red, not black or darkened. The tranny is definitely going- no reverse, no 2nd and 4th gears. If you can help answer the above questions i would be indebted. Especially the one on the 43k tranny for $595.

Stay far, far away from CitySide Subaru. Absolutely, complete ripoff. They wanted $750 to replace a single caliper. Did it myself for $60.

My transmission is dying. I did a tranny oil drain 2 days ago, replaced the filter and gasket. It drove fine for about 100 miles until a few hours ago. I was on the interstate going 78mph for about 2 hours when suddenly the RPM went sky high. I pulled over and after some testing (and a consult with a local transmission shop) found that I have no reverse, 2nd or 4th gears. I am looking at trannies at junkyards in the area and at online sales. A few questions: 1) Will any other year of Outback work for my transmission, or only the 97? 2) I have a quote from swtransmissions.com for a tranny with 43,656 miles for $595, including free shipping and a 180 day warranty. Not sure if this is with the core or not, but it seems to be the absolute best price for the mileage I can find. Should I grab it? 3) Do I have to replace the torque converter or any other part at the same time? 4) I have been told by the dealer that the "PCV Plate" is leaking oil and is contributing to rough running and idle. I cannot find this part anywhere. Can it be replaced while the tranny is out? 5) Your advice and consolation would be greatly helpful. I was headed from Chicago to St Louis for the weekend to see friends, but had to turn around 120 miles into the trip. Ugggggg.