Scooner

John thanks for pointing that out, I should've been more specific, I meant replacing the coolant hoses haha. You mean taking out an entire dash isn't an easy fix? Well I guess if you dont use a sawzall and hammer like when I took the harness and ecu out of both legacy donor cars for swaps its not easy to get to.

The reason for the name Scooner is because back in 2006 I had just started in the elevator trade working for Otis Elevator in Denver and I wanted a car that was good on gas because I had to drive all over the state including wyoming and western nebraska. My parents had an awesome 76' wagon 4WD when I was kid and I remember them always talking about subarus being good in the snow. So me and buddy were driving to Safeway one day and on the side of the road was a white 91' Loyale wagon 5 speed pushbutton 4WD, the dude wanted $300 because it had tranny problems. It ran perfect and the tranny wasn't that bad but I ended up buying a good used one from super rupair for $150, if I would've been better versed in subarus I would've put in a dual range from a GL but it still worked great for me. The reason for the alias scooner is because we couldn't quite think of what this new wagon resembled to us. It was white with blue interior and the front stock bumper seemed to jut out like a boat, a sailboat! We soon named it the scooner and it just stuck, every subaru I've owned since has been named scooner, this wagon is currently Scooner 8. I posted a pic of Scooner 6 in the picture thread of 80's GL's etc. I've been obsessed with GLs/Loyales ever since! This car is a 1992 Subaru Loyale, 4" lift, 27X8.50R14 General Grabber AT2s, full rear disc conversion, dual range 5 speed from an 88' GL. EJ22 swap from a 90' Legacy, 15% tinted windows, Curt towing hitch, thule cross bars, custom welded front bumper im still working on, Pyle cd playerless stereo (so it fits all the way into the opening), GL side trim.

That is most likely coming from the heater core or the coolant hoses going from the block to the heater core. Pretty easy fix, but I would stop driving it to avoid an expensive fix!

Thanks sir Gloyale, next time I do a swap im definitely going to buy as much as I can thats already done, especially that plate. Anyone looking to do this swap BUY THIS PLATE and save yourself the headache, plus by the time mine was done I had spent $100 on grinder wheels, saw all blades etc, I really should've just bought one.

What is your idle problem?

Hey Gloyale, Just curious, how much do you charge for one of your adapter plates, EA to EJ?

Ha I just rebuilt mine on my EJ22 because when I pulled it from the donor the brittle plastic all broke. I basically used a 3/4" rubber coolant hose from the main crankcase port on the back of the motor there and ran it up about 3" then put a plastic T and hooked up the one from the air intake tube and ran one to a new pvc valve. Its worked really good so far and I just used crankcase tubing from advance auto parts. I also did new vac hoses for that main vac port from the top of the throttle body to the CLC? I think thats what its called, I also put another T and ran my line needing vacuum for the existing loyale stuff from there and its worked well.

Thats nice man! I had an 84' GL I bought from a guy in Golden, CO where it had just sat forever because the transmission was destroyed, found another tranny for $100 at superupair in boulder and painted it army green. I really miss that one, bought it for $475 too. Sold it to a guy in downtown denver and never saw it again, such a shame. Ha he's probably a member on here too!

Thanks Bennie, I haven't been able to drive it much as we are a family unit and take the new outback everywhere and my wife is about 8 months pregnant and does not find the thrill in horizontally opposed subaru fast and fun thrill rides, and we are looking at houses to buy as well. This summer is going to rock though and I can't wait to take it on many camping adventures, especially up to vedauwoo.

Hey Carl B, on both of my EJ swaps I've completed I basically kept the plug ends that plug into the engine main plugs and cut a foot or two off of the main plugs that come off of the ECU. The rest of the wires I made from new wire, the cam sensors, crank sensors etc that use shielded wire I just installed new. You can find an electrical wire distributor near you that sells it by try he foot. For the throttle sensor I used a shielded cable with 4 wires in it and it all works great. The shielding protects the wires from electrical noise. For the standard wires like for the fuel injectors, power wires etc I'd just use regular 18g wire. I've even thought of going to the pull and save here and taking an ECU, and all of the plugs and making a harness/ECU setup to sell.

Haha well said friend! Thanks, it took quite awhile to write and post as I had thy young man child Gage pressing random keys and exclaiming their significance, ie W!!! He loves that letter. But what was I supposed to do the kid loves letters, I suppose its better than meth. But not better than heroin, heroin rocks. Especially after cheerios in the morning, its kind of our thing. Cheers!

Rally, yeah man that's it! My pic didn't work obviously and I cant get the site to work very well on my phone which sucks cause I have a lot of great pics. The front bumper is the first phase of welding/fabricating, i'll probably change it and do something different. I want to incorporate an LED light bar somewhere on there as well. I just posted a big thread on my latest EJ22 swap in retrofitting. Thanks for the compliments...now only if my wife understood my Subaru love ha ha.

What is up everyone? I wanted to make a post of my latest swap, I started with a 1992 Loyale Wagon with a 4" lift kit homemade, 27" tires, 6 lug hubs, Datsun Turbine aluminum 14" wheels, it had a 1988 GL EA82 which ran amazing and had a surprising amount of power, it also has the dual range from an 88 GL as well, not one of those funky pushbutton deals the loyales had. On a trip back from Golden,CO to Cheyenne, WY where we moved to the EA started to knock really really bad. Maybe it was a rod, maybe it was a valve? Who cares it was a gutless EA82. So I began shopping for a donor... I found a 1990 Legacy down in fort Collins the guy had wrecked, he spun it around and slammed the rear end into a concrete barrier. Needless to say it was destroyed, I still opted to drive it all the way to my house from his though which was an hour away. The car ran awesome it just kinda leaned and drifted to the right a lot. This all started around Labor day and I just now finished yesterday, I contribute this to having a wife who is 8 months pregnant and we have a 2.5 year old boy so time was hard to come by. Also coming up with money to spend on the project is also very hard to explain to a preggo who needs things for a new baby as im sure some of you guys know haha. Anyways lets get into it, this is what I did that has worked great so far. I used the radiator from the legacy and it fit perfectly where the old one was, all I did was grind off the little metal studs that were on the bottom of the EJ rad so it would sit flat and I used my grinder to cut the sheet metal of the loyale so that the radiator would not lean into the engine, the only real issue I had was the radiator hoses but thanks to smart phones I just took a pic of the inlets/outlets and went to advance and grabbed a couple of hoses that looked like I could make work by cutting them. Thinking of it I had to cut a small piece of metal out from the inside of the hood so the rad cap wouldn't hit, worked great using the existing overflow reservoir. Exhaust: On the first swap I did I basically just bolted up the EJ header to the engine and got rid of the rest of the exhaust that bolted on with those spring bolts about middle of the car. At this junction I welded a 2" inlet 2" outlet cherry bomb then welded on a 45 degree 2" and straight out in front of the wheel tire. Makes for a badass Subaru sound and I mostly drive around with no music cause I love the way it sounds. Adapter Plate: For some reason I had it in my head SJR charged $400 for just the plate, then I wanted to look again the other day and that was for all of it including the drilled flywheel haha wow. I opted for a 16"x16" 1/2" thick plate of steel from metal distributors which ran me $90. This was just a plate mind you, I spent so many days grinding torching and welding to make it right, when I could've just paid $185. well well worth the money. The first plate I made I used 1/2" aluminum from Alreco in brighton, Colorado. Aluminum is much easier to work with that steel. I didn't have many issues with the plate at all actually and it is super strong, no issues at all so far. Wiring/Electrical: Yes, the most amazing part of the swap. If you are considering doing this swap and have never done an undertaking like this just do it stop being a wuss. Theyre just wires. On the other hand I am an elevator service tech and I deal with electricity and mechanics every day at work so it didn't bother me to dive right in as I have to read and figure out electrical systems on elevators when they break. This is what I did with my big stuff like the fuel pump relay, ignition relay, fuel pump yada yada. For the constant 12v power I used the fat white 12a going to the ignition switch in the steering column, I tapped in and then attached my own inline fuse, for the switched 12v I used the fat black 12ga wire going to the same switch, I also used an inline fuse for this as well. From there I wired up the fuel pump relay on the top as your looking down at it from the top there is a smaller green/blk wire that goes directly to F47#23 or D23 this is called Fuel Pump Control in the prints. The small yellow wire is attached to the 12V switched power that I tapped into, The blk/red wire goes to the positive side of the existing fuel pump, I tapped in the existing one that was under the dash on the pass side. the FAT yellow wire gets tapped in the 12v constant after the fuse I installed. The Ignition Relay: The light green wire, oh man this caused me many many hours of grief freezing in the garage. When you tear out the harness DO NOT disregard the diode. What is the diode you may be asking, well it is half grey and half black and has 3 wires coming out of it, I light green and 2 yellows, I disregarded this little gem at first, geez why wont this POS cranks?! Well lo and behold after doing a lot of research I found a Volkswagen wiring diagram where a guy transplanted an EJ22, that's when I saw the diode. This time I kept ALL of the wiring I removed from the legacy and with some digging I found it! With about a foot of wires sticking out of it still, I attached it with the light green wire coming off of the ignition relay with one end going to ECU point F47#5 Self Shutoff Control, one to one of the diode green wires, and one to 12V switched power. Boom that thing fired right up! Okay now to the rest of the IGN relay, the black on It goes to a ground, the 2 FAT yellows go to 12V constant and one of the FAT yellow/red wires goes to the O2 Sensor, the other FAT yellow/red goes to A2 and A13 (B48#2 B48#13) Tuning and testing: The thing would run awesome just idling, however when I drove it would backfire and sputter and buck and sneeze. Over the last 2 weeks ive been scratching my head and freezing trying to figure it out, was it a spark plug? No. Was it the plug wires? No. Oh Oh maybe a bad injector? Trying to pull one out I broke the top off...argh. another couple days later got 2 used ones, I had pulled the fuel injector next to it to compare when I went to find new ones at the junkyard, well I put the new ones back in and what do ya know it ran...terrible! spitting gas out the exhaust burning white smoke, what the hell? I pulled those two plugs and they were soaked in gas. What? Well more research and more days and random hours I found that when most people replace fuel injectors they don't pay attention to replacing the O ring which basically just allows fuel to literally pour in! I was able to get FI O rings at advance that were universal and it fixed that. Of course this 2.2 has the black top injectors and not the reds because I have 3 extra ones of those. Then came the eureka moment, after that incident I cleaned the plugs and wanted to test some more, my god it still backfires and sputters and cant hardly drive. Then the next day I figured id give it another shot and it had snowed the night before, I got in while it was warming up and turned on the wipers to get the snow off and as soon as I turned em on the car died. My head started to hurt, why did that happen? that has nothing to do with the engine! WTF. Then it hit me. Grounds. I remember attaching the ground of the ignitor and the MAF to the ground on the outside of the windshield wiper motor. Why I did this I don't know, I remember from the first swap a common ground is needed for all the grounds for less complications. Needless to say I took these ridiculous grounds off and attached a black wire and ran it to the common ground located in front of the battery. Then boom the car ran just the way I wanted, fast and loud. Holy crap what a relief! Forgive me for such a long post but I felt it was necessary and hopefully it helps some other poor sap like me someday. If you've got any questions feel free to ask, have a good one and good luck!

Here is my latest build, 1992 Loyale Wagon with D/R 5 speed from a 88' wagon. Just finishing up the EJ22 swap. It also has 6 lug hubs and a 4 inch lift with 27" tires.

Sorry dudes just can't afford it right now, damn you truck payment! Believe me if i could i would. Thanks anyways Scott that's really cool of you to give a discount though and sometime in the future i will for sure be buying from you, probably later in the winter.

I might be interested in this if the price is right, i was looking to put a 3" lift on my 85' wagon, but not until i wrangled up the $495. So the big question is when and how much.

Two very good ideas, and no i do not have the "thermometer" hooked up to the computer and i am pretty confident that it's not the injector. I have the temperature gauge hooked up though. Anyone know right off the top of their head what pin that temp gauge wire is on the ECU? I'll probably have to dig through some paper work. Does the black and yellow wire from the temp gauge just go to the ecu? and the red/green go to the temp gauge? I believe that's how i have it now. But lookin at it there is a green/white wire coming from the engine and i have it labeled thermometer. Hmmm wonder what i was supposed to do with that? thanks guys

So last weekend i finally finished up my EA82 to EJ22 swap and took it for a spin around the block. Holy hell it is fast coupled to the EA tranny! I have to be careful cruisin around in front wheel drive cause it will just spin those tires to no end, even goin into 3rd! This swap was a pain in the rump roast, but the end result is amazing, i can cruise up hills in 5th when before i'd have to shift into 3rd and sometimes into 2nd haha! Plus my car looks like a complete sleeper so people try and pass me or race me and find out real quick that my GL isn't just a run of the mill POS...and this engine has 256,000 miles on it. Anyways i guess i can share my only problem that i am dealing with. In the morning after the car has sat all night i can start the car right up no problem, but then i drive it for a bit so it all warms up nicely and turn it off. When i try to start it up again it just cranks and the exhaust expels an intense gas smelling discharge. Almost dizzying amount of smell. Cranks and cranks, so i found out if i hold the gas pedal all the way down like it were flooded then i can get iut to catch and start up. Then no problem at all while driving, i even took it off roading and through some water crossings this last weekend. That's basically my only issue i am having. It only does this when the car is warmed up, if it sits for a long time then i have no problem at all. What could this be??

So this was my first swap and it was all made possible by Numbchux awesome write up and i figure since he was kind enough to share how he did everything i would return the favor and post every single issue i have had so far so that the next guy can avoid them! 1st: Be EXTRA careful when removing the harness! Without any prints or diagrams of any kind i just started chopping and cutting not knowing any better, unfortunately i cut the cam sensor wires too short to the yellow plug that connects to the ECU, in turn causing me to become "creative" and try and make it work. It didn't. Today i went to a pull and save and cut all brand new plugs out of a car and re-soldered my wires. Worked awesome! 2nd: DO NOT wire straight to the sensors on the motor! I thought i'd be real cool and just run my wires straight to the sensors. Yeah it works but it i would have just left it all alone and used the wire harness plugs for the motor it not only would have way less issues of tracing but it would have looked better too! Basically would have just been a plug and play system. 3rd: Don't assume that the problem is super complex...it's usually something very simple like a ground not hooked up. 4th: If this motor ran before and you've done nothing to it, then unless the timing belt broke there is no way the timing will be off. It took me a couple of hours of wasted time to figure this out by pulling all of the timing belt covers off and lining up the marks with the #1 piston at TDC. 5th: If you can use steel as an adapter plate between the tranny and the engine go for it, or better yet BUY an adapter plate from one of the guys on here. I bought a 17"X17"X1/2" solid plate of 60/40 aluminum alloy from ALRECO (the aluminum recycling company at 104th Ave and Brighton Rd in Thornton, CO 303-287-7210) for $62.50 because it was a remnant, i then came home and spent an entire saturday cutting, grinding, drilling and shaping this glorious plate. It was a LONG process but the end result was really nice. 6th: For gods sake don't use one of those wussy dremels that grandmas use to carve eggshells with...it won't work. I snapped 2 $10 carbide bits trying to make the wholes wider in my flywheel. Finally i got the compressor going with a set of badass cornwell bits from my brother and an air tool. I used the EJ flywheel as my pattern and it was perfect. I also used this to widen my motor mount holes as well. 7th: Alot of guys have been using an EA radiator for this swap and when i took mine out i seen that it was leaking a bit so i looked for another one and ended up using the rad out of the legacy! I drilled holes in that front piece of metal that runs between the fenders and bent it up to hold the rad, hooked up my hoses just like it was stock. Then mounted my 12" electric fan in the front of it. Works great. 8th: In my backyard i have a 87' GL-10 wagon as a parts car so i was lucky to get the fuel pump off of it because my car was originally the carbed EA. Seems to be working perfectly, but does put out some excessive pressure but it's not a big deal because it just gets returned to the fuel tank at a faster rate. 9th: There is a yellow wire on the side of the ignition coil and that is the tachometer input, this is where you are going to hook up the engine tach input from the EJ ecu on to and it will tell your stock tach what to read. Very cool. 10th: The bypass air control valve...oh what a damn adventure this was. So i put my new yellow plugs on that i got at the pull and save and fired the car up. It ran awesome! ...at 3500 RPM!!! What?! So i turned it off and opened a beer. Then my mechanic brother showed up to grab some paint and said he wanted to take a look, so i fired it up and same thing. All he said was gimme a pair of pliers and he pinched the air tube going to the BACV, booyah the car dropped to 800 to 1000 rpm just like it was sittin in the other car. He said i think these two wires are backwards. We reversed the OPEN and CLOSE wires and it runs perfect. Then he says "why didn't you ask for my help before?" So i just said thanks but you're 2 months late. haha I know there has got to be more and like i said i just want my info to be on here for the next poor guy wanting to romp on his new EJ and bangin his head into a wall. Sorry if it's too long, thanks for your help gloyale, shawnW, and Numbchux!

oh no i should have been more specific, i need the bright yellow plug that plugs into the ecu. There in lies my problem haha

I pulled all of the timing covers off just to double check that all of the lines on the 2 cams were lined up and they were, along with the crank, so now i definitely know that the timing isn't off at all. So i started to poke around the cam sensor like you were saying and when i unplugged it the car jumped up in rpm alot to like 5000 rpm. So i traced my wires all the way back to the computer and i forgot that when i first stripped the harness out i cut the cam sensor wires too close to the plug for some reason so i tried using some other wires and their metal part for this.....well that was not so good, because the plug was mangled inside and i don't think there is anyway for a signal to truly be steady. Well, i guess the next step is to find a new plug, one guy said i could cut one off of a harness but i'd have to pay for the entire harness. Screw that. Guess it's pull and save for me. Unless one of you guys in Denver might have one for me?

Still messin with my swap here and i finally got the car to start and run, but it runs terrible. Fairly hard to start and idles rough and when you give it gas it stumbles like crazy and then starts to idle even higher and i've found that it is most happy at 2500rpm. It'll sit there and idle all day at that, but as we all know that is just dumb. I verified that the TP sensor is good and all spark plugs are firing. I borrowed my brothers timing light tonight to check that but....the bulb was dead in the gun haha. Basically what i am wondering from anyone whos done timing on these EJ22's is could the timing become messed up some how? I drove the donor car into the garage from 70 miles away. I was thinking that maybe the crank sensor and cam sensor perhaps aren't in sync anymore (if that's possible)? Should i just take off the belt covers and make sure the notches are lined up? It really seems like the timing is off to me, because it almost back fires and just the way it runs rough and smooth at a high rpm. One more thing i used a fuel pump off of a 87 GL-10 and it puts out 64 psi, the 22 only requires 34 is this a big deal or does it just mean more gas will be returned to the tank?

Guess i could have just posted this in the last one: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com

ha ha yeah after i posted that i read that the tranny was fried sorry! I am currently doing a EJ22 swap from a 90' Legacy into my 85' Gl Wagon and i was just thinkin that you could probably make the EA tranny work in your car, you'd just have to find one and get the adapter plate, and possibly have the driveshaft changed? For more information you should go to the member Numbchux for his write up on the conversion, it was awesome and explained everything i needed to know. I bet you'll dig it!