Snowman
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Most EA82 body cars, turbo or non,}
Sounds like you might know a thing or two about
EA82/EA82T engine swaps. I have a 1985 EA82 !.8L
Turbo motor. I'm wanting to install into a 1988 GL
Wagon, that currently has the EA82 1.8L SPFI power
plant.
My question is, Do I need to pull the entire
wireing harness to make the 1985 Turbo work in the
1988 GL? What about the Brain box? As far as I've
been able to determine from all my current research.
I'm thinking that I should have any and every thing I
might need to do this swap. Haveing both cars on hand
like I do.
Sounds to good to be true. Any tips and info you
might be able to share with me would be greatly
appreciated. Trying to build my son his first ride.
Going for the badass little subaru 4x4 thing. Any
info as to wheels and lift kits would be cool as
well. Thank you for your time
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Hey I bought a 02 subaru impreza WRX off of Ryan...he said to look you up and see what software you tuned the car with...if you are the right guy please get back to me asap. I need to know everything that was done to the car. Thanks
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Definitely use Subaru stuff for the bearings and gasket kit. Aftermarket gaskets and seals are crap. Best deal around for SOA parts is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65829 I've always used run of the mill aftermarket clutches and never had a problem.
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Both of those statements are correct, but they're dealing with slightly different situations. Setright is talking about when the TO bearing is just starting to get worn. It'll make noise as it begins to brush against the clutch fingers, since it's not turning yet due to its resistance, and the rubbing causes a noise. With the clutch depressed farther and more load on the bearing, it spins and the noise will sometimes go away. If the clutch is properly adjusted to keep the TO bearing away from the fingers, this condition will not make any noise except when the pedal is depressed just to the end of its free travel. I was referring to when it's really starting to get bad, where the TO bearing growls as it rotates with a load on it.
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That's on an EA81 engine. On the EA82, it's the "mickey mouse gasket" o-ring. Very different setup. Call Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn, WA and ask for Jason in parts. 866 528 5282 He knows all about these engines and can hook you up with anything you need. Their prices are also good, and they ship stuff quickly. I've bought over $5000 in parts from them and have never had a bad experience.
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I'd get a darn good straightedge and a flashlight, hold the straightedge against each surface with the flashlight behind it, and check for surface irregularities. If you were careful and lucky, it's very likely still flat and okay. If the heads were damaged, those can be milled easily enough. If the block was damaged, it's probably more cost effective to get another running engine.
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I've run Mobil 1 75w-90 in my tranny and rear diff in a couple different cars and have been very pleased. I've spent this winter in anchorage and it's always shifted well. Did fine driving through Tok at -45 a month ago too. Theoretically the 75w-140 is going to flow just as well at low temps, but I doubt it does because it's stretched over such a huge range. In a subaru, you'd never see any benefit from running that over the 75w-90 anyway, especially up here.
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Yup. Don't get anywhere near the mating surfaces with a wire wheel. Use a yellow roloc bristle disk, as they are made for cleaning aluminum without damaging it. (There are different grades, differentiated by color, intended for use on different metals). Takes a while, but the results are fantastic. They look like this:
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I don't see how a timing belt job could cause a 420 code. It's probably a coincidence that it happened at the same time. I know the 2000 and up cars had trouble with the cat actually failing, but most of the 420 codes I've heard about on the older cars were caused by the oxygen sensors getting old and slow. It's probably time to replace both of yours. On the OBDII cars, you need a scanner to clear the code.
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I'm pretty sure the '90 Legacy had common issues with the input shaft bearing (and possibly other tranny bearings), which they dealt with by '91. If the noise stops when you are pressing on the clutch, it is definitely not a throwout bearing. That will make noise as you press on the clutch. Does the noise change depending on which gear you are in, or does it follow the engine RPM as long as there is an acceleration or deceleration load on the drivetrain?
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I think the "brightest" thing there is the dice though!
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Hella 500s are a popular choice that fits well. Lightforce 170s also fit.
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outback springs changed in 2000? will they fit?
Snowman replied to Snowman's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
That's what I needed to know. Oh well, I guess I'll keep looking. Thanks for the help! -
1994 EJ18 Impreza converted to Turbo
Snowman replied to sub_dont_touch's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
Here's another vote for doing a complet EJ20G swap. Any time you can run an existing, proven, reliable setup, you're better off. A stock EJ20G will make your impreza absolutely fly compared to what it can do now, and it will do so without any headaches or reliability concerns. A turboed EJ18, even if done exceptionally well (major $$$ and time), will get you about the same power but will be under more stress to do it and will not have the reliability or longevity. This is exactly the same reason that most people have stopped messing with the EA82T in the loyales and have started doing EJ22 swaps instead. -
I've been looking around at rear overload springs to put in the 1997 Outback struts that are on my 1992 Legacy, and they are available at a pretty reasonable price from Rallitek for 2000 and up Outbacks but not for older ones. 1stsubaruparts.com lists the pre-2000 and post-2000 cars as having different springs, but does anybody here (perhaps those of you who work at dealers or otherwise have access) know what the differences are and if I can put the overload springs for the post-2000 outback in my pre-2000 struts? Thanks for your help!
