Snowman

I think even just a little glob of silicone on the threads would hold the screw in place just fine. I'd be scared of even the blue loctite on a tiny little screw like that. As long as the lock washer is in good shape, they shouldn't come out anyway.

FINALLY got some pics of Sophia with the Lightforce 240s on my last "commute". Judging from my experiences driving between 75 and 85 in marginal weather, I'd say that in any kind of decent weather, they're good for up to 100 mph before you'd be "outrunning" them. with clear covers: With blue covers:

Your OBW has a roof rack, right?

Hmmm...air boats are fun:Flame: .

SPFI will eliminate a lot of vacuum lines.

I happened upon a supposedly running EA81 for free the other day, and it got me thinking, which is never a good thing. It seems like the EA81 would make a really good stationary engine, set up to drive a generator, air compressor, water pump, or some similar load. It's incredibly simple, small, light, and quite durable. Problem is, I haven't the foggiest idea what to hook it up to that would be practical. I would imagine that an EA81 would turn a pretty darn big air compressor, so if I was using it for shop air, I would either need a huge tank, or it would only run for a matter of seconds each time, which would kill the longevity. A generator would be pretty cool, but I don't know how I would govern the speed. Any ideas?

I would agree that it's probably a head gasket issue. The EJ25 phase I and II engines have had so many problems in that area that it would be the first place I would suspect.

Ditto. I've been working on EA82s for a while now, and they are great motors that are reliable, reasonably peppy for their size, and long-lasting in stock form if they are maintained. However, I've seen too many people blow them up doing relatively minor modifications to ever want to do that myself. The EJ22 is the best engine Subaru has ever made in my opinion, and it improves upon the EA82 in every aspect. If you're looking for all-out power and willing to spend a few extra bucks while (in my opinion)losing a little reliability, an EJ20G is where it's at. Don't get me wrong, I love the EA82. I have the belief that engines are best used for what they were intended to do, and the EA82 was never intended to be a powerful engine.

I'm assuming you discovered the electronic disty used in the carbed EA82 engines?

I would verify that the coolant temperature sensor is working properly. If the ECM is seeing erroneous readings there, it may stay in open loop, as was mentioned already. I don't think the OBDI cars were required to achieve closed loop in a specified amount of time, so the ECM would probably run like that all day without throwing a code.

Most of the HD wiring in Subarus in an absolute joke. I've replaced lots of battery cables because of excessive voltage drops. I've also seen many EJ cars that were dropping over half a volt between the alternator and the battery positive. Time to get out your voltmeter and start checking stuff.

Depends how big the gouge is. If it were mine, I'd try some good RTV on it and see what happens. While you're in there, what kind of shape is your tensioner in? How about the idler pulleys?

What about EGR? I'm not familiar with those model years, but I know there were some differences throughout the generations.

This is my sick and twisted way of trying to get you to skip work...

How much did the clutch pack cost just for the parts?

I highly doubt that the little 3/8" tranny cooler lines in the rad are big enough to not result in restricted oil flow. I would also imagine that that the tranny cooler portion of the radiator is not meant to contain engine oil pressure. It typically sees just a few pounds of pressure.

Yeah, I've seen it in white or grey. I don't know the brand, but we get it from the local hardware store. It's commonly used to paint concrete floors.

Yeah, that's what I'm looking for. An oil-to-water cooler would be much better for my climate. I ran into serious overcooling problems with my automatic transmission this winter, and I'm sure the same would happen if I installed an oil-to-air cooler for the engine oil.

Okay, I know it's a few months before the show, but I thought I should get people thinking about this. At this point, I'm about 90% certain that I'm going to be driving from Alaska down to WCSS9. Anybody from Alaska or Canada is more than welcome to meet up with me for the trip down. If you don't want to drive your car all the way, meet me along the way and I'll give you a ride, as a second driver would make the trip much easier from my standpoint. It would be really awesome if we could get some more northerly people to make it to the show. Matt and I went to WCSS7, and I know we saw a handful of guys from B.C. there, which was very cool. I would like to improve upon that this year. If nothing else, it would be neat to meet up with some of you B.C.-ers for the trip from that point. As far as a timeframe for the trip, I would probably be leaving from Haines, AK mid-day on tuesday and returning by the next tuesday. That's what I did last time, and it left plenty of leeway for breakdowns or other unforseeables. If you're coming from Anchorage or somewhere else in southcentral, I'd plan on leaving Monday afternoon and getting back on tuesday or wednesday. Let me know if you're interested. Trust me, it's a fun drive that would be a lot more fun with a larger group. And hey, it's only a 4000 mile round trip:cool: .

I'll add my name to the list of people working on one. It looks like you could attach to the crossmember up front, much like the engine oil pan skidplate, but the rear is more of a challenge. I think I'm going to end up building a crossmember of sorts that attaches via the same bolts that hold the tranny crossmember. Not sure what thickness of material to use for the actual plate yet.

So, do the EJ turbo soobs have an oil cooler from the factory like the automatic foresters, or is it just the larger oil capacity that helps them stay cooler? I'm still trying to track down one of those coolers if anybody has one, as I do lots of 80 mph plus driving for hours on end, and I worry that my oil temps might creep up there during the summer months. I also think that an oil-to-water cooler like that would help to keep the oil warmer in the winter, when I often find it cool to the touch after long stretches of highway driving.

Epoxy paint is the way to go. Once that stuff is on there, it's NEVER coming off. We use it on all kinds of stuff at work, mostly trailer decks that see tons of abuse. Usually the plywood comes apart before the paint comes off.

You might take some measurements and see if a Westfalia top would fit with some modifications. I've camped in my Legacy a few times, and I found it very nice to have all my gear in bins so that I could completely empy out the rear cargo area for sleeping purposes. Some sort of fold-out table either on the side of the car or attached to the rear might be very useful.

YES!!!!!! You guys rock! This means I can drive down again this year. It sounds like Matt's going to be busy, but it anybody else from AK or Canada crazy enough to make the trip with me? I can't wait!

Yeah, I think black bumpers and door handles are the best. What about like a half inch wide "pinstripe" that follows the line in the body going between the bumpers? Just curious what that might look like.