Snowman

Generally, the 4EAT auto in the EJ cars is considered a very good transmission as far as automatics go. They do fail, but I've heard about many of them going for well over 200k as long as they get the fluid changed regularly. If the fluid is all nasty, I'd stay away from it, but if it looks like the tranny has been taken care of, I'd go for it.

Hmmm... you thinking about driving down to WCSS this year?

Wow, I'm sorry I missed this thread being off the board for a while. Sounds like a lot going on there! Good to hear that it runs though. I'd be interested to see what happens once the TPS idle switch is set up properly.

Just got back from spring break in Southeast Alaska, and I have to brag about my Subaru. As I've mentioned before, it's an 800 mile drive between Anchorage and Haines. Most people take between 14 and 16 hours to do the drive, often over the course of two days because it's pretty grueling, going over 3 or 4 relatively high passes and having long sections of badly damaged road. My typical times in the old EA82 cars were in the 13 hour range if I was pushing it, to give you some idea. Well, I just did it in 11 hours and 15 minutes. That works out to an overall average of 71 mph including stops, icy and snowy roads, slowing for wildlife on the road, border crossings, and everything. Oh yeah, this was in Sophia, my 92 Legacy w/ EJ22 and 4EAT...stock drivetrain with 178,000 miles. I think Matt would be proud of his old car.

Nice pics. Looks like an absolute blast!

The final drive ratio is probably different. I don't remember the exact years, but the first couple years of the legacy ran 4.11 gears, then they switched to 3.9s, then back to 4.11s in like 95 or so.

If you're looking for something to do with the coolant lines, hook up to a coolant filter. Keeping the coolant cleaner will result in less deposits and scum in the passages, ensuring more even cooling. That plus some diesel SCA additives should help to ward off the HG and cylinder head issues of the EA82T a little bit.

ASSUMING that the XT is like the other fuel injected soobs of the EA era, it should have an inline filter under the hood. There is also probably some sort of screen or mesh filter inside the tank as well. The inline filter before the pump was only on carbed models.

Are you going to be buried in that car, Mick?:cool:

Dude, that sucks! Judging from the pictures, it really doesn't look that bad though. I just repaired a 2003 OBS last fall that was MUCH worse. I used a come-along hooked to a stout tree, a torch, and a welder to fix the frame, and now you can hardly tell that it was ever in a wreck. As long as the frame didn't get tweaked from the strut towers back, it should be fine. You might have to replace some suspension components, but I doubt it. I could probably bring it in to the UAA shop and check the alignment on saturday. PM me if you're interested.

I haven't looked at the fel-pros myself, but if they don't have the little metal ring around the inside like the OEM gaskets, they will blow out after a while.

The oil pressure light is rated at something ridiculous like 5 psi if I remember correctly. Basically if you have NO oil pressure, it comes on.

Judging from the difference between the 170s and the 240s, I'd say there is a significant difference. What you need depends on your application though. 140's would probably work fine if you stay under 65 and don't go out in white-outs.

Sorry, I've forgotten exactly what you were doing with the RX...does this mean that Will's EA82T mayhem will be resumed? :brow:

Check your throttle cable tension. If it's just barely too tight, it will idle high, and the problem gets worse as the engine warms up. If that's not it, take a look at the IAC and make sure it's not stuck or something.

Just line up all three pulleys with their respective marks and you're golden. None of this turning the engine 360 degrees like the EA82. The marks are also much easier to see on the EJ22 (that darn driver's side mark on the EA82 is always such a pain if you're doing it with the engine installed.) Be careful not to compress the tensioner too fast. Supposedly you can destroy it if you compress it really quickly.

New cotter pins on any nuts that use them for sure.

It tends to vary from summer to winter a fair bit. I'm not sure if it's the cold engine needing more fuel during warmup or the different gasoline they sell during the winter that affects it more. My mileage during the summer tends to vary between 22 and 26, and during the winter 17-22).

very cool. I love to see people doing research like this. Perhaps I'll cut apart some EA82 heads next time I have a bad set.

Crazy Finns! I guess they haven't heard of snowmobiles over there.:cool:

I'm pretty sure they didn't even have Dexron III back then:rolleyes: . I seem to remember the dipstick on one of my old loyales saying Dexron II. Same as with my 1987 Yamaha outboard. I found a couple cases of TCW-II 2-stroke oil sitting out back at work, and I wasn't sure I should run it in my engine, but then I remembered that that's what they had back then.

I was actually thinking about making a writeup on this with pictures and part numbers and stuff, but I probably won't get around to that for a while, so go for it if you want.

Welcome! First off, I'd make sure that all the tune-up items are in good shape. Spark splugs, plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve. The EJ22 is no hot rod, but makes decent power in stock form if everything is working right. You could free up the intake and exhaust a bit by replacing the stock muffler and removing the intake plumbing inside the fender.

I don't think that's a reliable indicator either. The 96 Legacy I bought from Matt had hydro lifters and single port exhaust. I've never seen an EJ22 newer than that in person, so I have no idea what the other versions look like.

Not entirely sure about this, but I would beg to differ about not having to disconnect the driveshaft on manual cars. Without the countershaft spinning, how are the rear output shaft bearings being lubricated? I've towed several soobs on dolleys before, and I've always taken the driveshaft off because it's not worth the risk in my opinion. BTW, all you need is a single 12 mm box end wrech.