jensen0510

no roof rack, and the tire pressure is good. I'm betting the O2 is a good bet. I'll check around and see what I can get in this big town

I thought I remembered you guys posting higher mileage on some other posts I read. I do have a check engine light on, I read the code, but I think it was the evap sensor under the manifold. I have the one off the other engine I just haven't swapped it out yet to see if that clears it. You are probably right about the O2 sensor. I think I burned about a gallon of coolant out of the exhaust leftover from the old engine. Probably not good for the O2 Where's the cheapest place to get an O2 from and is there more than one? Thanks

I never thought I would get 21 mpg out of a car with 240K miles on the tranny and 115K on the engine!!!! Wooohooo All in town short trips. With the gas guage broken, I was afraid to go too much farther, so I filled it up today. I could have gone another 100 miles

thanks for the ideas, I'll put it up on jack stands and see what I can see.

pretty continuously when applying power in reverse.

bump

It doesn't do it going forward at all.....smooth as silk. I have a fairly long driveway and it will do it when I push the gas backing up down the driveway, if I idle down the drive it doesn't seem to do it. My driveway also goes down a slight incline to the street. Now that I think about it, it does it primarily when pushing the gas and backing up. If I idle in reverse and back up it doesn't seem to do it. Thanks

Only a couple of issues.....Gas gauge is goofy. I hear that is standard. Lockout button on Tranny has to be pushed to move from park to Drive or Reverse. Headlight short..... But here's the one I'm worried about......When I put the car in reverse and backup it jerks and shakes....almost like something is getting bound up. Any idea what I should check?

I got the CV in, the new wheel covers on, washed it, and took it for a spin last night. 241,000 miles on the car and it drives with no shakes, shimmies, or rattles!!!! 115,000 on the engine and it is as strong and as smooth as most new cars I've driven. I do have a short in the headlight circuit, but they did come on, they just flicker occasionally. Here's my total cost... Car $400 Plugs $11 Oil and Filter $20 Knock Sensor $58 Battery $50 Used Engine $175 Antifreeze $11 Oil Seal $10 O-Ring $5 Exhaust Gaskets $18 Tire $65 Wheel Covers $16 CV $60 Misc $30 Total $929 :clap: Today is my first day driving it as my daily driver...wish me luck!!!

Finally, after an electric impact, an air impact, 2 broken 1/2" breaker bars, PB Blaster......I got it off, A guy at work had a 3/4" breaker bar, and I went and bought a socket......SUCCESS!!!! And just in the nick of time too, I borrowed my father's truck for the last couple of weeks while I was working on the Subaru....I stopped on the way home in it tonight to pick up a prescription, when I came back out it wouldn't start So now when I get the CV axle tomorrow and put it in, I have to go help him put a timing chain in his pickup. When it rains it pours, but that's life!!! Thanks to everyone for all your suggestions, I'll continue to visit and maybe as I learn more about the Subaru, I can begin to contribute and help others as well!!!!

Tried PB Blaster with both the air impact and electric impact. My dad is convinced I won't break his 40 year old 1/2 inch breaker bar, but I'm not so sure Tonight I will apply much heat and try the impact wrenches again. Then if that doesn't work I will go to harbor freight and get a 3/4 inch breaker bar with a set of impact sockets.

BTW, I checked with a local garage on getting this loosened. $55/hour one hour minimum, unless it took less than 10 minutes, then they would only charge $27. Otherwise they would work on it until they got it loose and charge the hourly rate for however long it took.....I said thanks but no thanks

Cool, I'll pick up a can on the way home, and spray it while I'm home at lunch. I haven't tried my electric impact, I assumed that my air impact would have more torque, but I'll give anything a try at this point. Thanks

Well, I broke the second 1/2" breaker bar last night. I'm going to heat it tonight and hit it again with the impact wrench. WHY IS THIS THING SO STINKIN TIGHT!!!!!! Seriously it's rediculous! Ok my vent is over now

I fixed the oil pump leak and got the Legacy started and took it for a it's maiden voyage this morning!!!! WOOOOHOOOO!!! Only one problem left to overcome now. The passenger side CV/halfshaft is shot. I tried to take the axle nut loose with no success. I twisted the end off my 1/2 inch craftsman breakover bar using a 4 foot cheater on it, still didn't budge the nut. I used my impact wrench with no success either:mad:. Yes I did bend up the tab. Any ideas on what I can do to get it loose? I assume it is standard thread and not left handed or something goofy like that. I tried both directions multiple times with no success. I'm off to sears for a replacement breakover bar, I'll check to see if anyone has any ideas when I return. Thanks for everyone's help so far. It's such a relief to have it running and drivable.

Yep the crank seal appears to be where it is supposed to be. I have a new subaru seal and o-ring, along with permatex gray to seal it with......just want to make sure I don't miss anything.

Hey everyone, I'm wanting to make sure I'm barking up the right tree....I posted earlier in another thread about my engine dilemna. After putting a different engine in, I got the car started but I had a massive oil leak coming it looked like from the middle of the timing cover. When I took the timing cover off it was mostly dry. It also looked dry around the seal at the crankshaft. When I removed the oil pump, the O-ring was completely flattened and was semi-hardened. It also looks like little or no sealant was used around the oil pump. One of the screws on the back of the pump was loose. The cam seals are dry for the most part. My question is, would the o-ring and sealant be the likely cause of my oil leak, or is there something else I might be overlooking...... Thanks, Robert

OK, it's torn down to the timing belt, I know I should do more, but I'm thinking I'm going to replace the cam seals and the crankshaft seal, along with checking the oil pump and replacing the o-ring. The timing belt is still dry and clean, so I'm going to re-use it, only because, I'm removing the timing belt covers and I have a spare timing belt off the old engine as well. I know I should buy a new water pump, and timing belt, but honestly, I need to spend the money on a new drive axle for the front passenger side (boot is missing) and 3 new tires, then she will be road worthy and I can worry about other stuff as it comes up. So for my next question, what is the best way to hold the cam sprockets if you don't have the special tool?

So is the oil pump, or the crankshaft seal usually the cause of a massive amount of oil coming from the middle of the timing belt cover? Can I replace the Crankshaft seal without removing the oil pump. Now that I think about it, if it was leaking around the oil pump to crankcase o-ring, I'd see that behind the timing belt cover on the block. What I'm seeing is coming from inside the timing belt cover. Can I replace the crankshaft seal without removing the oil pump....just curious.

OK, I got the engine swapped out..it runs, and yes I know I should have changed the seals before I put it in, but I didn't cuz I wasn't going to invest another dollar in this thing until I heard the sweet sound of the Sooobie...... Now I've heard it run, I backed it down the driveway, and I pulled it back up the driveway, so the drivetrain works. Now the bad, I have 2 issues. The first I think will either go away, or I have a major problem. The second I think I should have done what you guys said. First. I pressure washed the engine compartment while the engine was out. I'm pretty sure I got some water in the exhaust system while I was washing it out. I'm also fairly confidant a fair amount of coolant from the old engine went out one of the exhaust valves from the old engine. After getting the engine back in, I filled the radiator with straight water. When I started the car there was antifreeze coming out the exhaust. It's still coming out, and the thing blows steam like a beast after the exhaust warms up. Any idea how long this will last before I have to start to wonder if the new engine has a problem. I would expect if it was a problem with the new engine it would begin to do it as soon as you started the engine, rather than after the exhaust warmed up. Thoughts? Second, I have a major oil leak on the front of the engine. I didn't check any of the seals before installing the engine. Like I said, I wanted to make sure it ran before I put any more $$$ in it. it's leaking from the middle of the timing belt cover, I assuming main seal, or oil pump, how hard is it to do these? BTW, the motor sounds great. It seems to run a little rough, but I'll get that worked out I'm sure. Thanks for your help!!!!

I found an engine for the legacy. I scored a 93 EJ22 from a legacy with 115K miles. I also got the igniter, ECU, and mass air...all for $175 and within 80 miles of my house!!!! YEEEHAAA. I've already read on here that I'll need to swap the wiring harnesses, because the one in my car has 3 plugs, the one on the 93 model engine has 2 plugs. Are there any tips on pulling the motor, things to watch out for getting it out or back in? I've found lots of stuff on the forum about switching an EJ22 into other cars, but I have yet to find reference to the steps necessary for removing the engine and replacing it. Any thoughts? Looks like I might get to drive this car under it's own power yet!!!!

Thanks, I think I'm going to take a roadtrip on Sunday to go look at the other engine. I'll keep you updated on what it looks like!!!

OK, so I guess I haven't given up yet.... I have 2 options I'm looking at now......gee I'm indecisive!!! 1) Run Compression test try to narrow down if it is one side or both that has bad head gasket. If only one side tear down that side in the car, and buy a felpro headgasket and install. Slap some permagasket on the intake manifold and try to start it and see if it will run. If it works go get real gaskets and put it together right. If it doesn't I'm out a coupla hours and $35 bucks, (I know I should use a Subie gasket, but they are in another town 35 minutes away and are only open 8-5 when I'm working)....if it doesn't work..... 2) I found a MUCH better complete engine close enough to here, that I can go get for $300 and swap in. What would you do? Thanks again for your input

I am too, I was really hoping I'd be able to get it running, I'm sure I could if I had the time to find another engine. Unfortunately I sold my Jeep Wrangler tonight (it was my daily driver) to get rid of the payment. I was hoping to use the subaru as cheap transportation. As it stands I have to get wheels ASAP!!! Thanks again for everyone's help, you have all been great!!!

Well, I've decided to cut my losses on this one. I'm already into it for about $200 in parts and I have no idea how much more I'd have to spend. Even if I bought a different motor, I have no idea what other electrical gremlins I might have, or if there are other problems with the drivetrain. So I've decided to see if anyone here is interested in any of the parts before I scrap it. It has a brand new radiator, new coil, new knock sensor, the power windows work. The car is complete...let me know if any of you need any parts, and i'll make you a good deal. BTW, I'm in Northwest Arkansas if anybody wants the entire car. I just don't have the time to invest in it....I need wheels Thanks, to everyone for your help!!!