Roundeye

If it appears totaled AND has a suspect engine......run away. If you can definately find an easy fix for the engine, it would be a good beater. Or parts car.

You can use it by adding a spacer block in the front where it mounts to car. Use the same height block you used for the lift. See the spacer below (with Subaru emblem on it) I had to disconnect the lower wiring harness (from the body attachments) and pull it down, mounting it with with some Adel clamps to the inside of the skid plate to keep it out of the fan.

Was it a Stant Superstat? I used one made for an Oldsmobile 350 diesel (forget P/N) in one of my EA-82 wagons. That was 2-3 years ago. It stays temperature stable year-round.

DO NOT LOWER TIRE PRESSURE! If anything, over-inflate them to keep from rolling the bead off when taking hard turns. If you roll the bead off in a turn, the rim will dig in and you WILL find out what it's like to roll a Subaru. I used to autocross old VW Beetles, over-inflating the tires and sliding around is the only way I kept them upright.

Ditto on the timing belt. It's the first place I'd look. If it spins over kinda fast but does not even attempt to fire, it's the driver's side belt. Easy to check: Look on front of the belt covers, you will see 2 kinda oval shaped inspection plugs. Pull those and look in there with an inspection mirror. It will be obvious if one is missing/shredded. Easy to replace. Don't pass it up for that, breaking belts do not hurt these cars and a new belt can be fitted in an afternoon if you have not done it before. Depending on price, go look at it again. I got one of my 87 GL Wagons for $200 because it "needed an engine". All it took was a L/H timing belt (which I knew before I bought it). 3 years and 25k miles later it's still raising hell:headbang:

Sweeeet! Nice color too, I had a '87 wagon that same color.

Here is one of my 1985 EA82 N/A (obviously) XTs. 2 belts ran just like my other EA cars. They are just multi-groove belts/pulleys rather than standard V's. NOT serpentine (at no point are the flat sides ran over a smooth pulley like cars of today) . Components are interchangeable (by swapping pulleys). The advantage is less tendancy to slip.

You have come to the right place. Welcome aboard!

That's not entirely a bad thing. Bumper height for vehicles using any public road SHOULD be regulated. Why? Think about just how many stupid people are behind steering wheels every day. Now imagine some behind the wheel of a truck/Jeep/whatever with a bumper (or whatever the lowest structure is that forms the leading edge of the vehicle) 3 feet above pavement level. Knowing that Murphy is alive and well, imagine that you are sitting at an intersection waiting for a light and you are in a "regular" vehicle......some dumb-azz in a monster vehicle can't/doesn't stop. You would surely be crushed and said dumb-azz would hopefully be crushed as well in the ensuing rollover. Bumper height is restricted for a reason. Even on semi trucks and buses. This is to cause a vehicle that is hit to be pushed instead of ran over (flipping the "hitting" vehicle as well and possibly launching it into others). It's just good common sense. Lift something as high as you want, just keep the bumper a sane height. Make it removable/folding for severe off-road use.

Get a good quality drift (slighhhhhhhtly smaller diameter than the roll pin) and pound it out from the opposite side. It WILL submit.

I believe you are attempting to refer to kinetic energy. Not mass (which is basically the same as weight here on Earth with a constant gravitational force). In which case weight should remain the same on this planet regardless of velocity. Yes, I'm just funnin ya, so don't get all wound up.

I was lookin at the grille:brow:

I run 29x8.50x15 TSL Super Swampers on my '87 GL with a 4/4 Ozified lift with Toyota Tacoma rims. Minor fender trimming/rolling required. Minor "adjustments" to the footwell area with a hammer results in no (major) rubs at full flex/turn. The tires appear forward but are really where they are supposed to be. Look at the geometry of the trailing arm. When the suspension is compressed, the wheel centers in the well. If it were centered at ride height, it would eat into the rear of the opening when compressed. It moves back as the wheel goes up.

Good lookin' wagon! One suggestion though: Loose the lights below your bumper. They will get cleaned off if you do any nasty 'wheeling. It will also look alot higher without them. I like it! That's a '85, right?

Beware. Back when I was heavy into the old VW addiction, I have seen adapters break......with tragic consequences. Do a hub/wheel conversion.

Been going down dirt (dusty) roads alot? I have seen dust build up on leaking oil and actually stop it. Washing the engine made it leak again:lol:

Careful with the "slicing". Wires, lines, etc. could be below. As for adhesive, I've used 3M spray adhesive for carpets. Used as directed will last for life+2. I've had to remove carpets installed with this stuff.......it took grabbing it with vice grips and yanking:eek: . Good stuff.

Get a mechanic's stethoscope! The hose trick is o.k., but this a tool that shall always be in my toolbox. It looks like a doctor's except it has a long rod on it for reaching into tight spots and pinpointing exactly where a noise is down to an individual bearing. It's great for listening to injectors too. These can be found at tool sales, etc. Maybe even Harbor Freight. A word of caution: Use these things with care! Putting it on something extremely loud (squeeling bearing, etc) will leave you deaf.

No matter how much you put in or what brand, if it has moisture in the system it will never cool right. Replacing the reciever/dryer and pulling a vacuum on the system (boils out moisture) is the fix. Just something to consider if it constantly quits. I converted mine from R-12 to R-134 along with several other people's cars with no problems. I've used Johnson's, Prestone, DuPont and Advance brands and all have worked well. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself or lack the right equipment, then you must decide how important A/C is to you. Pay a shop:mad: or buy stuff to fix it. Down here you would soak your seats with sweat without it. (the winters are nice though:D )

My pressures are 28 LO and 256 HIGH. Here in LA (Lower Alabama;) ), we often stay around 96 to 98 and VERY high humidity. With these pressures, mine puts out 35 to 40 deg F at the vents. as GD says, sometimes it will "cycle". This happens when the superheat switch is actuated. This is in place to prevent your evaporator from freezing. It indicates that it's getting as cold as possible. Normally, like during really warm and hot days, it will run constantly. Our systems are expansion valve systems. A valve at the inlet of the evaporator meters the amount of coolant flowing through it dependant upun demand. The other type is a CCOT (Cycling Clutch Orifice Tube) that has no valve. It uses a fixed orifice and accumulator on low side and cycles clutch dependant upon demand. Used in GM vehicles and some others.

True that! That's what I use....countless swaps over the years without one problem. Screw those plastic ones. Use an old shaft....learned that on aircooled VWs!

Clean all connections at the lights and most importantly, the grounds. Don't just look, disconnect and clean them well. A high percentage of electrical difficulties on older cars are caused by corrosion and/or loose connections. If that does not fix it, get a diagram and start chasing wires. Some lunkhead could have "improved" the wiring before you got it.

You really need a dual gage manifold so you can see what the high and low side pressures are. This will tell you alot. Aside from that, if it's a Hitachi compressor, check the air gap at the pulser. If it's too far away it won't stay on. You could also have a slipping clutch and/or belt(s). If you know someone with a dual gage, post the numbers here along with outside air temp and myself or someone else can pinpoint the cause.

After looking around that site I wonder.........If those are JDM vehicles (and not all avail. in U.S.)....Why the hell are they given model names in English? I think they are teasing us.

I want one. Pimp it out. http://www.subaru.co.jp/sambar/van/ Keep clicking on pics of it (near the bottom of first page and then the pic of the regular one on the second page) 4WD is shown. Can I get a HELL YEA!?!!